Hondata

I wish I could get this fixed. The car wears the most on start-up and it takes my car like 8 seconds to get fired up.

Remove the cold air assist valve and your car will fire right up like stock. I pulled mine out and it is perfect.. I was even able to pull the 5% cranking fuel out and it starts even better now. Here's a link to the thread that shows you exactly what to do. http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/ecu-tuni ... -hang.html

soxfan143 wrote:Remove the cold air assist valve and your car will fire right up like stock. I pulled mine out and it is perfect.. I was even able to pull the 5% cranking fuel out and it starts even better now. Here's a link to the thread that shows you exactly what to do. http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/ecu-tuni ... -hang.html

That is apparently only for rev hang during cold starts.

I still need a fix for this. It takes my car over 7 seconds on a cold start.
Very embarrassing to say the least.

What exactly is it doing? Taking forever to crank, or fires up and RPM's sink right away? Before my AAV was removed my car was a bit tough to start and would rev up to 2k and just haaaannnng there.

maiku wrote:

soxfan143 wrote:Remove the cold air assist valve and your car will fire right up like stock. I pulled mine out and it is perfect.. I was even able to pull the 5% cranking fuel out and it starts even better now. Here's a link to the thread that shows you exactly what to do. http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/ecu-tuni ... -hang.html

That is apparently only for rev hang during cold starts.

I still need a fix for this. It takes my car over 7 seconds on a cold start.
Very embarrassing to say the least.

What kind of weather are you dealing with? I live in North Dakota, and if it's below 40 degrees my Honda starts like shit. Two weeks ago it was -30, and it took 10 seconds of slow, painful cranking before the car fired up. Hondas come with shit batteries from the factory.

I had a small issue for the first time a week ago, took awhile to start. It was firing... but not running.

I had recently adjusted the VE tables in the sub 1k range for smoothing, however this I believe caused this affect. Now I leave the sub 1k values from WOT to -15psi with a slight increase.

I went back and adjusted the VE tables for every vacuum reading greater then -15 psi and below 1000 RPM by +5%. (The post fire upor running values)

Repeated the conditions and no issues at all.

Steve

BV1 wrote:I had a small issue for the first time a week ago, took awhile to start. It was firing... but not running.

I had recently adjusted the VE tables in the sub 1k range for smoothing, however this I believe caused this affect. Now I leave the sub 1k values from WOT to -15psi with a slight increase.

I went back and adjusted the VE tables for every vacuum reading greater then -15 psi and below 1000 RPM by +5%. (The post fire upor running values)

Repeated the conditions and no issues at all.

Steve

do you mean in this area? see pic

problem solved !

Old thread, but looking for some help with cold starts.

Information:
- Modifications which could affect starting eg injector size, fuel rail, intake type, turbo charger.
- What base map did you start with eg Civic-Si-6-SkunkHdr
- How long the engine takes to start.
- What coolant temperature do you notice the starting issue.
- What time interval is required before the engine is hard to start.

Tests:
- Upload a return to stock calibration and test the start.
- Upload the un-modified base calibration (eg Civic-Si-6-SkunkHdr with no changes) and test the starting.
- Try the Civic-Si-2-Tuned or Civic-Si-2-Tuned-RH.

Basically stock K24A2 running on 02-04 KPro. RBB intake, RBB header. Used 03-05 Accord TB for cable conversion. Stock injectors. Stock fuel rail, running return pressure regulator from around 18 inches away, believe I have fuel set to 35psi. Very light flywheel.

All of the K24 basemaps for 310cc injectors seem to have the same cranking fuel (same as K20 actually - is this right?) and same timing in the 0 cam.

Not sure what to expect in Vermont winters, but the old engine (1.0L) fired right up in much colder weather, and the Fit fires up after 2-3 cranks typically, even when it's subzero. Once it's running it runs great. Have a brand new Optima yellow top which will crank the motor quickly basically indefinitely even when it's subzero.

Here's what I've seen and what I've done:

-Change timing in 0° cam in last 3 columns, first 2 rows, have tried from -7 to +7° approx
-Changed injector pulse a bit, have tried from -20% to +50% fuel, seems to crank a little easier with ~+20% but it's still hard to start

Engine typically starts easiest if I crank for 1-2 seconds, stop, crank 1-2 seconds, stop, and then crank until it catches. Usually within 3-5 seconds on the last cranking when it's below freezing outside it'll start to fire, might backfire and die or catch but sputter and idle really low for a few seconds.

Can anyone share their timing values, injector pulse and trim for what's basically a stock K24? Am I correct in thinking 0° last 3 columns will be cranking timing?

Thanks.

buenas tengo una k20z3 turbo con inyectores de 850cc, bomba aem 340lh, pero tengo problemas con el arranque despues de los 60 grados celsius, alguien podria ayudarme con una melodia de un carro similar que encienda bien que tenga configurado la temperatura por agua y la temperatura por aire

alguien me podria ayudar por favor