Hondata

Gotcha. Okay, you can reset the codes through the FlashPro and FlashPro Manager. You don't need to disconnect the battery, but it sounds like you already did.

Just keep me in the loop. Sorry it's having an issue, sounds like you were enjoying the car.

Next step might be the VTC oil control valve. I could not get the hondata to reset the computer from the laptop. Work for this weekend.

EFICU wrote: Thu Oct 07, 2021 7:59 pm Gotcha. Okay, you can reset the codes through the FlashPro and FlashPro Manager. You don't need to disconnect the battery, but it sounds like you already did.

Just keep me in the loop. Sorry it's having an issue, sounds like you were enjoying the car.

Spent the weekend working on the car. The parts still haven't come, but got a bunch done. Did a little bit more cleanup on the ported intake, removed the belt tensioner to get to the VTC oil screen, and removed and cleaned both the spool valve assembly and VTC oil control. Car feels good and the code cleared.

Yeah it looks good. So cleaning everything worked fine, you didn't have to replace anything? Just trying to put some knowledge in the memory bank in case a car in the future has the same issue.

It's hard to say what did it, but pretty sure it was a varnish film over one or both of the screens.

Gotcha, okay. I'll just have the guys do a similar set of steps to what you did then if I see it in the future. At least it worked good on yours.

EFICU wrote: Wed Oct 20, 2021 5:38 pm Gotcha, okay. I'll just have the guys do a similar set of steps to what you did then if I see it in the future. At least it worked good on yours.

Parts are here, I guess I'll throw them on a shelf for down the road when I have that section tore apart again. I found a great online store for prices and information on parts with exploded view and links to all the parts. HondaPartsNow.com. The dealer couldn't even come close to the prices.

Problem came back so yesterday I put motor flush in the oil ran it for the five minutes, left it half the day and ran it again for five minutes. Then today I ran it one more time and changed the oil and finishing up putting the new parts on. I will reset the computer and try to get a datalog if the car is running good.

Oh what a week, last night the starter went out, got it replaced. Broke the knock sensor do it. The guy at O'Reilly saved me $100, I didn't know the last one had a lifetime warranty. Running great again but didn't after the flush. I still have the spool valve assembly coming. If car runs good tomorrow, I might go to Sac raceway.

EFICU wrote: Wed Oct 20, 2021 5:38 pm Gotcha, okay. I'll just have the guys do a similar set of steps to what you did then if I see it in the future. At least it worked good on yours.

really weird, got into vtec in the morning and the lights all come back on. Left work only the check engine light is on but not VSA, now good power on low cam but flat feeling in VTEC. Reset the computer when I got home and is running fine again. At first had a VTEC stumble, but then back to normal. Still waiting on spool assembly. Any thoughts?

Unfortunately no ideas on this one, I am learning from you and your process unfortunately. Your vtec operations in this datalog look fine, AFR is in spec, so not really sure of the "flat" feeling in vtec. Unless it's not following the commanded cam angle in vtec perhaps. But I don't see enough vtec operation and RPM in the datalog to make that determination. Just thinking, if it's commanded 45* but only rotating 20*, you might notice that difference since you've spend so much time with the car.

Drove to work fine, but on the way home, going up hill at a bit over 6000 rpms, all the lights came back on. So, for now I will reset it and try to keep it under 6000 until the new part gets in.

EFICU wrote: Thu Oct 28, 2021 8:31 am Unfortunately no ideas on this one, I am learning from you and your process unfortunately. Your vtec operations in this datalog look fine, AFR is in spec, so not really sure of the "flat" feeling in vtec. Unless it's not following the commanded cam angle in vtec perhaps. But I don't see enough vtec operation and RPM in the datalog to make that determination. Just thinking, if it's commanded 45* but only rotating 20*, you might notice that difference since you've spend so much time with the car.

Happy Halloween, the spool assembly came in early and it only took a few minutes to install. For everyone else, I think you would have to remove the drip tray over the back of the head. This seems to have fixed the problem. I have gotten a datalog on my normal route, everything felt good. I did notice that I have a lot of blow by with the oil filler open. I was wandering if some type of oil separator or just go to a catch can for the hose that goes from the valve cover back to the intake? I think this hot air is why I don't get as close to ambient temp as I think I should. Or could bringing it in closer to the filter better?


Early next year a new motor should be going in, so I'm not as worried about this one, it will most likely become a core.

Yeah it looks good. There are a ton of catch can and oil separator kits out there, you would just have to find one you like and fits your style.

EFICU wrote: Mon Nov 01, 2021 11:22 am Yeah it looks good. There are a ton of catch can and oil separator kits out there, you would just have to find one you like and fits your style.

Sorry about the mispost.
I finally had the time/money to get the parts I've been looking at and was working close to home. I got the new O2 sensor in and built the 3" exhaust I've been wanting with V-bands and a much smoother path. I thought I had bought a 3" in/out muffler, but it was 2.5". The rest of the exhaust was 2-3/4". I only started the motor for this datalog with the resonator. I am rebuilding my muffler into a 3" in and 3" out. Almost finished and I will get a full run in.