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Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2004 12:06 pm
by methods
The new AEM WBO2 (gauge pod style)
DOES NOT NEED THIS DEVICE
Due to brow beating, AEM converted its output to 0-3.5V?. This is compatible with Hondata.
-methods
Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2004 3:27 pm
by turbocivic4
Thank you, you sure cleared up a lot of frustration with a repeated post over on honda-tech in which answers was conflicting with each other. Do you know what to enter on the conversion table.
Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2004 7:29 pm
by methods
I wrote your answer, and then deleted it.
You need to figure that out for yourself.
No more free handouts.
Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2004 8:23 pm
by turbocivic4
HaHA ok here goes nothing
0.00 10.0
0.31 10.62
0.62 11.24
0.94 11.88
1.25 12.50
1.56 13.12
1.87 13.74
2.18 14.36
2.50 15.00
2.81 15.62
3.12 16.24
3.59 17.18
Yep Yep am I right?
Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 8:51 am
by methods
Very nice. I don?t have the table in front of me, but you have the right idea.
Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 7:40 pm
by turbocivic4
Why is it I got the white signal wire going to my D14 02 sensor on my 94 gsr and I emulate and datalog my gauge numbers and my laptop numbers are off by like .8 or so??? I enter the conversion numbers correctly, whats wrong?
Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2005 9:56 am
by methods
First thing you need to do is take a DMM (MultiMeter or Volt meter) and read the ?actual? voltage that is being developed at the pin of the ECU. I would then measure the same voltage at the Gauge.
If the two voltages are the same (or if the first reading matches the gauge reading) then you know that the problem is with your conversion factor.
The gauge and the ECU are simply A/D converters. Whatever voltage you apply is what you will read. The conversion factors you enter into Hondata convert the raw voltage into Lambda or A/F. Your gauge has the same conversion only it is fixed.
There are a lot of factors that can affect this relatively small signal on its path to the ECU. Remember that you are dealing with a signal that is either 0-1V, 0-3.5V, or 0-5V. Each of these has a corresponding DV/DT and any small drop in your cabling can have a large affect on the calculated voltage.
For instance, the conversion factors you enter into Hondata assume that you have a 0V drop in the cabling from the O2 sensor to the ECU. If you drop 300mV on the way to the ECU, this will greatly affect the calculated A/F ratio. If you find there is a constant voltage drop between the sensor and the ECU you should either correct the problem (address grounding, shielding, soldering, connectors, wire gauge, parasitic (the gauge), etc. If you cant remove the voltage drop then you should calculate the new Calibration and enter that into your ECU.
It isn?t rocket science but it does take some attention to detail.