Hondata

cukali wrote:Your longterm fuel trim may be messing with your a/f.

It takes a little bit to adjust the a/f and if it is too far off you will stall before it can adjust.

Try adding fuel or read up on the long and short term fuel adjustments. Your old sensor may still be good, dont chuck it.

Im starting to think my sensor wasnt the problem.

heres the deal now. I purchased a brand new Denso o2 sensor. put it in, reset the ECU (removed the battery for a few minutes). started the car up and it works fine, sits @ 14.5-25.2 afr. I drove around for a while, when I came to a stop the car would return to idle fine. so I got on the freeway did a full throttle launch till about 65-70mph, then cruised on the freeway. everything was great till I got off the freeway and came to a stop, boom she dies. start the car and im back at 16.9-18.5 afr, seems like the longer I drive the higher the afr will go at idle. seriously WTF? any suggestions on how to get my long term trim to behave? I noticed my short term trim is sitting at 40-50% Ive been watching the videos that came with the Kpro, and I understand them fairly well, but there is still alot to factor in, and the fact I dont have a dyno readily available to me.

im real tire of my car dying everytime I come to a stop, and it idling lean (though it idles smoothly), I will attach my recent datalog where I took off from 0mph on a long on-ramp and bounced off the redline. if you look at the end it will show the afr ratio at idle.

would the fact that I have a drain somewhere in my system that sucks the battery dry in 3 days be causing the problem?

Your O2 sensor is cycling between full lean and full rich about 8 times a second. Either you have damaged the ecu or the wiring is still faulty. I would suggest rtying your ecu in a known good vehicle.

Spunkster wrote:Your O2 sensor is cycling between full lean and full rich about 8 times a second. Either you have damaged the ecu or the wiring is still faulty. I would suggest rtying your ecu in a known good vehicle.

how can you tell that the o2 is cycling? where does it show that?


and I might just have to take my ECU to an Acura dealer and have them check it out.. cause I dont really have access to another RSX to try it in.

ok another confusion I have that my ECU or wiring is Fubar.

1) problem didnt start till I upgraded to kpro
2) during part throttle car maintains its target 14.5 afr
3) before the wideband heats up the car runs 14.5 afr, as soon as the afr starts transmitting it bumps up to 17 afr
4) my short term trim is up in the 40-50%

the information ive seen from the videos on the cd that comes with kpro and from what ive read on this forum site is that part throttle is closed loop, and so is idle.. so it makes me think a setting might need to be tweaked. also my short term trim per the informational video from hondata states that the percentage is too high and needs to be tweaked.

I also noticed that if I turn off closed loop I still run 18-19 afr at idle. should it run off the maps when I turn off closed loop? or are the hondata preset Cybernation turbo map not set for a rich afr at idle?

I just cant afford another ECU if mine is fried cause im pretty sure Acura wont fix mine cause its been Kpro'd, so im trying to find another alternative.

lemme know what you think

You need to try the ecu in another vehicle to help you determine if the ecu is bad or if it is something in your vehicle.

Spunkster wrote:You need to try the ecu in another vehicle to help you determine if the ecu is bad or if it is something in your vehicle.

easier said than done

so if my ECU is fried, am I screwed? cause somehow I dont think Acura will rebuild my ECU once its been kpro'd

ok just to make sure everything is covered, here is the current status of my vehicle. check 1st post for specs, and kpro-config.

1) I am running hondatas Cybernation 550cc injector @ 10psi config.
2) at idle I start at 15-16afr, longer the car runs the higher it will eventually go.
3) when in part throttle afr stays around 14.5
4) when I come to a stop the car will die unless I flutter the gas pedal
5) i have an electrical drain in my car (will drain battery in 2-3 days)
6) aside from lean idle, car runs fine.

----------------
1) if the ECU is bad can take it to the dealership to have it fixed? or am i screwed and have to purchase a new ECU and repurchase the kpro upgrade?

2) could the drain in my cars electrical system be causing the problem?

3) if the kpro upgrade is not damaged can I just moved the kpro from one ECu to another if I have to replace ECU's


edit: I almost forgot, if I hook a test lamp between my battery and positive cable, I notice the voltage in my car is pulsing, last time I checked, DC current does not pulse.

Im pretty sure I found the problem. looks like my Multiplex unit in the 'under-dash fuse/relay box' might be causing the trouble. when the vehicle is off and I have a test light in series with the battery positive terminal and cable the test light will stay very bright and pulse. im pretty sure that the simulated A/C portion of the multiplexer aside from draining my battery in 2 days, could also be sending conflicting signals or causing the DC-V readings to cycle.

I will know more once I get my hands on another multiplexer.

well I took a break from working on my rsx for a week or so. now im back at it. found out that at any given time my battery had an amperage load of 380+ milliamps. I took out the aftermarket alarm system and the amperage draw dropped 100+ milliamps, and now my multiplexer will go into sleepmode. im still getting the high afr problem, but I have a feeling that when my multiplexer is in wake mode my battery has a 270mA draw could be affecting voltage readings and overall vehicle performance.

hopefully that is whats causing my incorrect readings. will update as I find out more.

----come to think of it, if I was to get my hands on another ECU, can the Kpro be transferred to another ECU? does Hondata do this? and how much would it cost.

Have you tried the ecu in a known good vehicle?

I would do that, but:

#1) I dont have any friends who drive an RSX.

#2) who would let someone they dont really know try out another persons ECU in their car?

so unless I can find someone that will let me I guess im just SOL

try re uploading the map, worth a shot..


but you might even have a small exhaust leak before the o2 sensors causing fresh air to get in to the pipes which triggers the sensors to read lean..just a thought

magnEsium wrote:try re uploading the map, worth a shot..


but you might even have a small exhaust leak before the o2 sensors causing fresh air to get in to the pipes which triggers the sensors to read lean..just a thought

I was thinking about that alittle earlier. problem is, when the car cools down it will still run the same. once the ECU learns its short term fuel trim it will always run that way unless I reset the fuel trim.

what is wierd is that if I limit the short term trim to +/-10% if will go to 9%, if I limit it to +/-60% it will go right up to 59% almost instantly during closed loop function @ idle.. what is up with that?

*bump* I edited my last post with a new finding.