Hondata

Spunkster wrote:At the ecu plugs. In Kmanager go to help, contents, under reference you will find the ecu pinout.

Any idea which pins I should use to measure the cranking voltage? Thanks!

A2 = +
A4 = Ground

Spunkster wrote:A2 = +
A4 = Ground

Should I just unplug the ECU and measure the voltage at those pins when cranking? Thanks!

No, you need to measure it with the ecu connected while cranking

Flustration will never go away with K-Pro!

I have just redone all my groundings and changed to a new battery, just hoping the CEL will go away. But IT IS STILL THERE!

I figured out there was 80% of the time the CEL was on after starting the car. So the CEL is not always on.

After driving for about 5-10 mins, the CEL will always be flicking off for a few seconds and back on again. If I restart the car after the flicking, the CEL will NOT be on anymore.

Anybody here, please let me know what I can do before sending my ECU back to Hondata. HELP IS NEEDED!!!!!!

who did you get the kpro from?

also, i doubt there's anything wrong with your car electrically, its probably either a bad ECU or bad Kpro, maybe a surface mount resistor got loose, who knows. you should contract the dealer/whoever you got the kpro from before sending it to hondata, they'll charge you $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

After changing the battery, did you clear security and then upload a fresh calibration to see if the problem goes away?

Spunkster wrote:After changing the battery, did you clear security and then upload a fresh calibration to see if the problem goes away?

I cleared security and reloaded the calibration. I even reset the ECU by pulling the fuse. But nothing takes the CEL away.

There is clicking sound like the sound from a relay when the CEL flicks off and on. Is there a relay on the daughter board? Could this be caused by some kind of relay failures on the board?

jopanet wrote:who did you get the kpro from?

also, i doubt there's anything wrong with your car electrically, its probably either a bad ECU or bad Kpro, maybe a surface mount resistor got loose, who knows. you should contract the dealer/whoever you got the kpro from before sending it to hondata, they'll charge you $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I got my K-Pro from the authorized dealer in Buffalo. They ordered the daugther board from Hondata and installed it at their facility. I don't understand why I would have to be so flustrated for K-Pro directly from an authorized dealer.

I have spent over $1000 for a K-Pro which lasted NOT even 3 months before giving me the CEL. Another over $100 for a new battery for toubleshooting and no good reason. And now I may even get charged for more $$$$$$$ sending back to Hondata. How lucky I am!!!

I am extremely exhausted and up to a point that I don't want to deal with this anymore.

PLEASE SUGGEST SOMETHTING, ANYTHING I CAN DO!!!

There are no relays in the ecu or on the K-Pro board. Do you hear the clicking when trying to crank the car?

I would suggest trying your ecu in another vehicle by clearing security in their car and then uploading a new base calibration. If the problem goes away it will tell you that it is a problem in your vehicle and not the ECU.

From your last datalog (several weeks ago), there is a problem with the charge system / battery. When graphed the voltage should be almost dead flat at 13.8 to 14.2V (depending on temperature).

Hondata wrote:From your last datalog (several weeks ago), there is a problem with the charge system / battery. When graphed the voltage should be almost dead flat at 13.8 to 14.2V (depending on temperature).

Does this mean that it is the alternator? I think the alternator should just work or not work. I have never heard a degradation on alternators. Plus it is the OEM alternator that came with the vehicle. What do you suggest me to check? Thanks!

Spunkster wrote:There are no relays in the ecu or on the K-Pro board. Do you hear the clicking when trying to crank the car?

I would suggest trying your ecu in another vehicle by clearing security in their car and then uploading a new base calibration. If the problem goes away it will tell you that it is a problem in your vehicle and not the ECU.

How about some relays or switch connected to the ECU? There is always the clicking sound when uploading calibrations. It sounds very similar when the CEL flicking. No clicking when cranking though. Any ideas?

Also, there is no electrical tape on the ECU cover at the top of the USB port. I don't think it is required for the later version of K-Pro. Do I need to put one there? Or it is definitely not the problem?

I will try to see if I can try the ECU on another RSX. What exactly I should test when using the ECU on another RSX? Any special test? Thanks!

Before doing anything else, you need to try it in another car. You need to see if it works normally in another vehicle (in the other vehicle clear security and then upload a fresh calibration from File, New). This will allow you to determine if it is the ecu or the car.

Anybody has any idea what high current output from the oxygen sensor heater on bank 2 is? I found this with the OBDII scanner. Where is the heater located and would this also affect the K-Pro dataloging? Thanks!

Oxygen sensor heater monitering - Electric current value of Sensor heater during turning heater on Bank 2 <--------- high current output