Hondata

is this the same way to hook up the lm1

here's how to hook up an LC1 to an OBD1 honda ecu

LC1 wires:

brown (analog 2) this is your wideband signal, connect to D10 (ELD) on your ecu

yellow (analog 1) this is your narrowband signal, connect to D14 (O2 signal)

black (calibration button/light) connect to the red button and light then ground to chassis

green/white (signal grounds) connect these to D22 (sensor ground)

blue (heater ground) also connect to D22 but not to the same point as green/white - I used a copper bar and connected green/white on one end and blue on the other and D22 to the middle - that way they're all grounded to the same place but their signals won't interfere with each other

red (12 power) connect to A25

Then go into hondata Options > Settings > Wideband Lambda and tell it that 0v is 7.35 af and 5v is 22.39

i just hooked mine up today. the only thing i did differently from you, sohc_student, was that i hooked up the blue to chassis ground, left the yellow unhooked (i still have the stock o2 sensor with the wideband in the 2nd bung), and i have my values set differently (3.25v=22afr) because i was reading instructions for hooking it up to the 2nd o2 sensor on an obd2 ecu which apparently can't see more than 3.25 volts.

everything seems to be working perfectly. i was just coming back to this post to ask if i could change the values to include the entire 5 volt range when using the eld input but i see you've already answered that question :)

If I wire my LC-1 to ELD input... Do I still need the stock O2 input even if I disable the heater?

Basically.. When you tell Hondata that you want to use ELD for wideband. Does the ECU use solely the wideband for o2 readings and closed loop?

You can wire your LC-1 permanently on the car to read WB when in open loop and NB when in closed loop..you can't just use both at the same time though.You have to switch either to use..If you'll just use the LC-1 for tuning purposes then remove your stock O2 sensor temporarily;replace it with the LC-1 sensor(unless you have two bungs welded in place)..wiring the LC-1 to the ELD is a pretty straightforward affair.Happy tuning!

SOHC_STUDENT wrote:
Then go into hondata Options > Settings > Wideband Lambda and tell it that 0v is 7.35 af and 5v is 22.39

How does one come up with these values>

SOHC_STUDENT wrote:here's how to hook up an LC1 to an OBD1 honda ecu

LC1 wires:

brown (analog 2) this is your wideband signal, connect to D10 (ELD) on your ecu

yellow (analog 1) this is your narrowband signal, connect to D14 (O2 signal)

black (calibration button/light) connect to the red button and light then ground to chassis

green/white (signal grounds) connect these to D22 (sensor ground)

blue (heater ground) also connect to D22 but not to the same point as green/white - I used a copper bar and connected green/white on one end and blue on the other and D22 to the middle - that way they're all grounded to the same place but their signals won't interfere with each other

red (12 power) connect to A25

Then go into hondata Options > Settings > Wideband Lambda and tell it that 0v is 7.35 af and 5v is 22.39

Thats what I just did and it works perfect. I also have a moates.net O-Meter tied into the brown wire.
Remember to disable your O2 heater.

Mike280 wrote:
Thats what I just did and it works perfect. I also have a moates.net O-Meter tied into the brown wire.
Remember to disable your O2 heater.

Can you post your datalog file? I want to verify my o2 is working correctly.

Thanks

I actually have mine set like the picture but with Lambda checked instead of Air/Fuel Ratio.

ocase22 wrote:

SOHC_STUDENT wrote:
Then go into hondata Options > Settings > Wideband Lambda and tell it that 0v is 7.35 af and 5v is 22.39

How does one come up with these values>

That's what your LC-1 manual says..

If im cutting the ELD wire and plug the browm wire to the end of wire the is going into the ecu eld pin, wont i trow a cel or somthing, dont i need the ELD (D10)? i have a p28/s300

No you do not need the ELD.

SOHC_STUDENT wrote:here's how to hook up an LC1 to an OBD1 honda ecu

LC1 wires:

brown (analog 2) this is your wideband signal, connect to D10 (ELD) on your ecu

yellow (analog 1) this is your narrowband signal, connect to D14 (O2 signal)

black (calibration button/light) connect to the red button and light then ground to chassis

green/white (signal grounds) connect these to D22 (sensor ground)

blue (heater ground) also connect to D22 but not to the same point as green/white - I used a copper bar and connected green/white on one end and blue on the other and D22 to the middle - that way they're all grounded to the same place but their signals won't interfere with each other

red (12 power) connect to A25

Then go into hondata Options > Settings > Wideband Lambda and tell it that 0v is 7.35 af and 5v is 22.39

Does grounding the LC1 unit to D22 eliminate the need to put a resistor in the stock o2 harness, or will I still need to connect the two black wires with a resistor?

As far as I know, turning off the "Heater Ground" error in the Misc tab is what you need to do, rather than wiring in the resistor.

I'm having a problem with my unit right now with a huge ground offset but it may be because I didn't hook my white wire to D22, I hooked it in with all the rest.

After searching the forum, I have seen Spunkster say repeatedly that the LC1 is not recommended because it does not accurately mimmick a narrowband sensor. After reprogramming the voltages on the LC1 to match the factory wideband output are there still any problems? Will it still not function as well as the PLX product?