cel comes on during warm-up

my friend · Post by **my friend** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:58 pm

Spunkster wrote:http://www.hondata.com/techksparkplugs.html

BKR7EIX is what im running rite now... they are resistor plugs... do u think its a ground problem cause i did not move my ground cable cause my stud broke off... but yeah my plugs are resistor

Post by **Spunkster** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 3:22 pm

Get a new stud and properly relocate the ground as per the instructions.

my friend · Post by **my friend** » Wed Jan 31, 2007 7:37 pm

Spunkster wrote:Get a new stud and properly relocate the ground as per the instructions.

is there another way?

Post by **Hondata** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:58 am

is there another way?

No, unless you live in a universe where logic works differently from ours.

my friend · Post by **my friend** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 2:32 pm

very professional. but lets put that aside...i was asking if there is another grounding location i can use.. here is what i read "The recommended position for the engine ground is on the stud attached to the cylinder head. While the stock location on the intake manifold will usually work without problems, the stud on the cylinder head provides a better electrical connection"..... reason im asking is because i dont want to buy a part, take time installing it and still have same problem ... like the battery

locash · Post by **locash** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 12:44 pm

You're failing to realize the additional benefit of replacing the broken stud, like the fact that you wont have oil leaking from the valve cover.

Logic isn't always obvious I guess.

jdmvtec93 · Post by **jdmvtec93** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 8:00 pm

thats the same problem i have, and i am using OEM spark plugs.

i think its the K-Pro, beacause i installed mine on a friends car and its does the same.

my friend · Post by **my friend** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 1:46 pm

Spunkster wrote:Get a new stud and properly relocate the ground as per the instructions.

ok so now i replaced the stud and i also removed few things out of my car like sound system ground and power wires a/f gauge, boost gauge, turbo timer...things that i left in are hid's boost controller greedy-e01 and after-market radio+ ipod wire... i think it got better but not by much now it disconnects every min or so... i also did a small experiment i removed my radio but left wiring in it..... and drove around for about 15 mins and i got i think 3 disconnects which is a huge improvement.. is it normal to have a disconnect every 5 mins? also does this hurt performance?

Post by **Hondata** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:04 pm

There will be a bad or broken signal ground in the wiring harness, or one of the electrical items you have wired in is using the signal ground as a chassis ground.

It is a very good idea to never wire anything into the engine/ecu harness. Remove all the foreign wiring from the ecu harness, and re-solder any wires which have been cut or have had the crimp connectors used on them.

my friend · Post by **my friend** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:41 pm

Hondata wrote:There will be a bad or broken signal ground in the wiring harness, or one of the electrical items you have wired in is using the signal ground as a chassis ground.

It is a very good idea to never wire anything into the engine/ecu harness. Remove all the foreign wiring from the ecu harness, and re-solder any wires which have been cut or have had the crimp connectors used on them.

ok i so i will re-solder all connections...also i just wanna add few more things.. my ebc ground is sig lighter ground....im using only one wire from my ecu rpm for boost by rpm feature... also i had vafc wired in long time ago.....
so i will resolder all previous ecu harness connection... and remove rpm wire.... anything else i should do....?and what should i do with my radio? and is my ipod creating any kind of interference?