Hondata

We're still on the same Garrett T3/T04E 57 trim compressor that comes as the default turbo on the Peakboost kits for B-series motors.

any updates on the new map yet?

The car (and laptop, which is in the car) are in for a rollcage right now.

Boost-by-gear is on the way, but it may coincide with a cam and intake manifold change. In which case, I'll start a new thread with pump gas and VP C16 tunes.

Love to check out the tune!

Latest calibration file posted. Boost-by-gear is still not finished yet. It'll be captured in the _015.skl file.

EDIT: Re-uploaded the attachment to correct a couple of things. Launch control settings updated. It hasn't been fully tested, but it should build at least some boost on the 2 step.

Changes for today's slick night:
1.) 8pt Chromoly roll cage and 3" 5pt harnesses installed.
2.) Switched to M/T 24.5"x8.0" slicks on Lenso VPD's and removed the wheel spacers.
3.) Boost control circuitry installed and AEM boost solenoid installed.
The boost solenoid is a Mac valve product. It's a normally closed, 3-way valve. When the solenoid is de-energized, ports 1 and 2 are not connected. Port 2 gets vented to atmosphere to vent any pressure in the line between the waste gate and the solenoid to avoid pressure accumulation behind the diaphragm. This also has the benefit of running off of spring pressure when the solenoid doesn't work. See .pdf file of valve type:
http://www.mdnworldwide.com/newmac/prod ... /35/35.pdf

I purchased mine from Cwest EK (TD Autowerks) on H-T.com for $80 shipped, but you can buy them from tdautowerks on ebay for $79.99 shipped.

Pneumatics Routing:
Port 1 -> Boost reference (from intake manifold, charge piping, turbo, etc.)
Port 2 -> Output to wastegate top port (above the diaphragm, opposite to the valve face)
Port 3 -> Open to atmosphere with the provided filter installed.

Electrical wiring:
Polarity at the solenoid doesn't matter.
Wire 1 - A11 was pinned (switched GND)
Wire 2 - 12VDC+ with 10A inline fuse, purchasd from Pepboys

4.) Swapped the front UCA's from side-to-side and briefly aligned the suspension. Thank you Mr. Green.
New specs:
Caster, L = 4.5* and R = 4.3*
Front Toe, L = .04* and R = .07*
Front Camber, L = -1.8* and R = -1.6*
Rear Toe, L = .09* and R = .02*
Rear Camber, L = -1.7* and R = -1.5*

Old specs:
Caster, L = .2* and R = .5*
Front Toe, L = .01* and R = .14*
Front Camber, L = -1.9* and R = -1.5*
Rear Toe, L = .02* and R = -.02*
Rear Camber, L = -1.7* and R = -1.6*

5.) Moved the rev limiter from 8600rpm to 8800rpm.

Track times:
12.0s @ 124mph (15psi)
11.4s @ 124mph (19psi)
11.19s @ 129mph (20 to 21psi)

Went back to a manual boost controller because we can't get the S300 boost control to work. The components, hardware, and install are correct. The circuitry components might be damaged.

Dialed in the anti-lag and it builds up to 15psi of boost on the 2-step.

Lost some vacuum on the motor. Probably tapped a valve. Oh, and a wheel bearing is shot....or the hub is starting to wiggle out.

I'll post the calibration file tonight.

Nice job. I have 2 questions.
What kind of gas was this done on and what is your compression?

Everything was done on 93 octane pump gas. We had planned on moving to VP C16, but never got around to it this season before the motor died.

The Wiseco pistons are flat-top pistons. I didn't build the motor, so I never measured the total TDC chamber volume.

Compression test did pick up more compression with age. It got up to 195psi to 210psi towards the end.

hi, my name is Diego and I need to kwon if your calibration is similar or if its run for a prelude H22 turbo T3/T04 with 440 cc injectors, Stage 2 Turbo Crower Cramshats and Hondata S300j.
If you have any map for my lude, please help me.

Thanks