03 RSX Type-S K20A2 won't idle/run properly

[Uhh effects]

I would recommend that you try your ECU on a known working vehicle and see if it runs as it should. It sounds like there could be some issue on your vehicle that is causing this.

How though?? It is a known working vehicle, I dailyd the car for almost a year previous to ordering Kpro, I placed my order for Kpro Oct 2nd, 2021 and sent out the known working ECU, from the same car, on Oct 3rd, 2021 and I got it back a month later from you guys, on Oct 27th, and now the car doesn't run. Is there any chance there is something wrong on the ECU end? I have no other friends who have a car remotely similar to mine that I can pop it into...

[Spunkster]

We test all ECU's when we install the K-Pro and if there is any issue we would know then. What did you do to the car while it was sitting waiting to get the ECU back?

[Uhh effects]

We test all ECU's when we install the K-Pro and if there is any issue we would know then. What did you do to the car while it was sitting waiting to get the ECU back?

Literally nothing, there was an old-dysfunctional car alarm system that was piggy backing off the stock RSX anti-theft system and didn't work. It was a nest under my dash so I got rid of it. It can't be that though because none of the OEM wiring was moved around and was only spliced in-to. Plus, before you had me disable VTEC Oil Pressure switch the car ran for more than 3 minutes, I think if it was the anti-theft system or something like that it would have definitely prevented me from even being able to crank the motor.

Could it possibly be the ground on the Valve cover? Should I try moving it back to the stock PRB intake location?

Besides cutting out that faulty anti-theft system, nothing had changed from when I took the ECU out and sent it to you guys to when I got the ECU back from you guys, and when I got the ECU I made sure to follow the provided Instructions paper slip that was included in the box. I moved my ground wire from the stock intake location to the center nut on my valve cover.

That's literally it. The car ran fine before I took the ECU out... :(

[Spunkster]

Most likely it has to do with removing the wiring. If there were T-taps, then the wire may be damaged internally and no longer making contact.

[Uhh effects]

Most likely it has to do with removing the wiring. If there were T-taps, then the wire may be damaged internally and no longer making contact.

The wires were spliced into and when I cut them I checked to see if any were damaged and none of them appeared to. If it was something to do with this then wouldn't it have kept the car from running for longer than 3 minutes like it has before on Kpro when I got it to start and idle?

[Spunkster]

This is why you need to test the ECU in a known working vehicle, as you have altered the wiring in your vehicle and after doing this it is not running as it should.

[Uhh effects]

This is why you need to test the ECU in a known working vehicle, as you have altered the wiring in your vehicle and after doing this it is not running as it should.

Ahh, I don't know why that didn't register in my noggin but the issue is I don't have any friends that have the same motor but i'll see if I can find someone in a Facebook group who would. Ill get back when I've got an update, Thanks!

[Uhh effects]

This is why you need to test the ECU in a known working vehicle, as you have altered the wiring in your vehicle and after doing this it is not running as it should.

Heyo, so slight little update. Still haven't found another car to test the ECU in nor have I found someone willing to lend me their ECU. I've dropped the car off at my tuners where we discovered that the car actually runs absolutely fine on first start up, from completely cold. Once it gets up to operating temp it starts breaking up and immediately starts trying to die. Once this happens my tuners laptop is disconnected from the ECU and will reconnect but instantly disconnects as if the ECU is surging on/off. Oddly enough I don't happen to experience the disconnecting issue that he does, with my laptop, but the car does still surge like it does once up to operating temp and will continue to do this until the motor rests a whole day, or at least until it is considered "cold."

[dandyandy]

Yo did you ever figure out the issue?