Hondata

Very cool, though sorry to hear about your grandpa. Should be fun as it progresses into what you have planned for it.

Tune felt good on little drive to a park, I'll send logs tomorrow, on these intense do I need to retain the maf or can I just go 3 inch pipe? If so can I just use one of those crap specter maf couplers if it's being tuned?

Hybrid cai is in the mail should be here by monday:;)

You have to keep the MAF, or wire in an intake air temp sensor in it's place if you remove the MAF. We will have to retune the car completely for the Hybrid intake, so let me know before you put it in. I will have to send you a new file for that, and then we can retune it. Won't be too big of a deal, but with the Hybrid intake it needs to be speed density tuned. The tune you're on right now is a hybrid since you have the stock box. When we speed density tune, the MAF essentially becomes just an intake temp sensor for us. But we need that reading to give us proper compensations as you know. So yeah, you can either keep the MAF or find a suitable intake temp sensor to wire it in place of the MAF. There is a tutorial somewhere I believe, which we would need to find if you want to go that route. The Hybrid has a place for the MAF in that billet air bypass, so you might as well run the MAF and we would only use it as a temp sensor.

Yeah let me know the day the Hybrid intake lands and you will install it. Then I will send you the first file for that. For now though, send me the datalog tomorrow for this setup so we can get it dialed for you. Then we can redo it for the Hybrid when the time comes.

Dude you are the title, I'll install it the second it's here, yes keeping maf now that I went with hybrid, I wanted it a while back it was out of stock and then I saw it came back so got her;) then I'll get some tsx cams later with a few more things before modding, you know I appreciate the support greatly, hybrid is the right choice yes?

Yeah that'll be good, to keep it simple with the MAF in there. Yes the HR, and the Skunk 2 are at the top of the list for 8th gens that I have worked with. The K-Tuned is another good one, but the HR and the S2 seem to be more common and always perform very well. They do a good job of delivering air and also keep the intake temps down as well. Keeping the intake temps down is really important during the hot months. So yeah, the HR intake is definitely at the top of the list for sure and will work out well.

Happy to help you guys out. I like seeing you guys enjoy your cars without worries.

At the end I was on af on the tach on accident, accidental burnout launch lol

Looks really good. I made a couple more WOT fuel changes and a small ignition change for the one knock we had. We should be there on this one, but we'll see in the net datalog.

Sick brother I'll data log on lunch after training these dogs, it feels pretty good though, realized I was on the bottom dot for oil though I hope that didn't effect last night's logs, I'm at the half fill line for this one, so is knock control what's helping us avoid knock in these tunes along with spark and fuel changes ? That's how it seems to work if I'm looking at each change correctly?

Sounds good. It should free up some with the intake once you get it on. I didn't see any major issues from oil being low anyways, but we'll see.

Knock control is a byproduct of knock showing up, and/or excessive noise from the knock sensor. So as we get less knock and less noise being registered from the knock sensor to the ECU, the knock control value will go down and usually plateau in the 50's (for 8th gens) at some point depending on octane levels and all. We are addressing knock in the tables directly, I always start there before making any other changes. We went from 17 knock in the first datalog to 1 in the second one. so the knock control will go down. The big reason we want this is so the knock retard is not kicking in while everything is going well. Then say you get some bad fuel or lower octane levels for whatever reason, the knock control will go up and the ECU will try to pull more timing to proactively stop knock from happening.

It's actually a pretty elaborate algorithm Honda has built to try to proactively avoid knock. So the goal is to get it to hide in the background so you have 0 knock retard while under normal circumstances with no knock, but if something starts to go weird it jumps right in to help stop any knock that shows up. Some guys bypass it all together, but I don't know that I like that theory. In the cooler months, I actually turn off the knock retard abilities of the ECU so I can tune the ignition without interference, then turn it back on once we finish tuning. This time of year though, you can't really do that when the intake temps are 120* in one datalog and 75* in another. Your first datalog the intake temps were in the 120* range, and the second datalog they were in the 70* range. You can't really tune that without compensations effectively because one ignition value would knock at 120* but not at 70*. But yes, I focus on the tables as I know the other settings I have in your file are as they should be for the majority of 8th gens like yours. Once you get the intake on, we will address ignition again because sometimes more efficient setups actually create more knock than restrictive ones. It's a little weird in theory, but we will check again since your car is a little more sensitive than most cars in the midrange to knock.

Ripped on it more for ya

Looks good. I made some more ignition changes for the knock we had. Fueling looks good, I didn't see a clean third gear pull, but the WOT fuel overall looked pretty good. Be sure to get the clean pull in third from 2500-8600 so we can see that stuff. Other than that it looks good. Do you want no lift shift on, or are you turning it on? I noticed on some of your WOT shifts you barely let off the gas anyways, just curious if you want that feature turned on. Here is the next one.

No makes total sense, more air needs more fuel, more sir can use advanced spark, and hotter ambient air is less dense air which equals less air , which with advanced spark means knocky poo?

Yes I love that feature but I lifted to avoid it due to the road, its a nice feature but I like that its easily bypassed by that slight lift of the pedal on shift, so any hickup i feel is knock? The one we had was right around upper v tec right? Is that due to no v tec on decel or just a tuning fix

Okay sounds good. I'll turn that feature on in the next one so you don't have to keep doing it.

No you should never feel a knock. A misfire maybe, but not a knock. Yeah your car is sensitive right around 5000-6000 if I remember correctly. I try to pull a little timing to see where it likes it instead of just pulling 5* right off the top. So we'll see. Every car is a little different, and as mentioned, with the new intake coming shortly that area might not have knock with the new setup. We will start over with ignition when the HR intake goes on. Just trying to get it knock free for right now on this version.