K20a2 swap Turbo starts up then dies?

[nixrsx]

Sup guys, new to this fourm but i am familiar with the clubrsx fourm. So,

I had an rsx with a custom turbo kit on it. For the most part it ran strong after a dyno tune made 385hp n 256tq on 8 psi, this was with restrictive piping, a crapp b.o.v, manual boost controller and some noticeable play in the wastegate V band clamp. Wrecked the car, pulled everything out .

Found me a 1998 GSR teg with 33k on the odo and dropped her in there! Now its back home from the shop with minty upgrades

My problem is i have tried to start it up on the old dyno tune with no luck. ( figured as much ) SO with the little knowledge i have i uploaded a fresh calibration and been tweaking the parameters in KManager to see if i can get it to idle but still not having any luck.

As soon as it cranks/ starts it dies before it gets a chance to idle out, but she wants to start. to much air and not enough fuel ? or to much fuel not enough air? vaccumm leak? My guess is it needs a tune?

new TPS and hondata 4 bar MAP, even cleaned the IACV

i want to at least hear it idle/rev trying to figure it out myself instead of just asking for a calibration. i have been at it all day need help lol

[AREA876]

Post your current calibration

[Spunkster]

Also what is the serial number that is on the K-Pro board inside the ECU?

From Help, About, what is the version of software you are using?

[nixrsx]

attached is the dyno tune i ran before the swap, i went in and disabled the multiplexer already. i am not 100% sure about the serial number of the K-Pro because its in the car, i know its the V3 unit but i have software version 4.3.3

im going to try and clean the electrical connection part of the iacv and see if that helps, the screws are froze i have the iacv venting to atmosphere never had a problem like this

[nixrsx]

update:
put everything back and had someone start the car so i could see hear and see whats happening..
i have a vacuum leak coming from the unused port on the Throttle body, i plan to make a metal plate or tap the hole and insert bolt but for now i have a crappy vacuum cap that barley fits, would it be best to get the sensor just to plug the unused connector back in?

i adjusted the Idle valve duty cycle all the way to the left and set idle to 1000. Now the car starts and idles for a few seconds before slowly shutting off..

what would cause this? i may do a vacuum leak test later on and post results

[nixrsx]

Also what is the serial number that is on the K-Pro board inside the ECU?

From Help, About, what is the version of software you are using?

serial number is 12476.

also i am seeing that my A/F is dipping to 10.7 after startup so that has to mean something how can i adjust this just for idling purposes?

[Spunkster]

You need to try the ECU on a known working vehicle as it sounds like there could be a number of problems with your current setup. If the ECU works in a known good vehicle you will need to start correcting each item in your car systematically.

[nixrsx]

well it runs with starting fluid lol, i think the ecu is okay.

Did a boost leak test and confirmed the intake manifold gasket has a huge leak, the throttle body also leaks. All the push connect lines running off the vacuum block to boost controller ect, was also leaking not pushed in all the way.

The manifold was tapped into for the vacuum source and is also leaking through the teflon tape.. i took it all apart probably going to go with a skunk2 manifold/TB combo

stay tuned

[swapdef]

any luck?

[nixrsx]

any luck?

well i have installed the mani/tb combo and wow does it look nice. Unfortunately that did not fix my issue but it does run for a bit longer now about 5 seconds before it slowly stalls. I have yet to do another vacuum leak test. kinda stumped here

also im not sure if anyone else has had this issue but the throttle cable braket and cable i bought for this swap does not hold the cable properly at all. I have 3 different ones and none work which is very frustrating. the one that came with the TB is useless, the Karcepts one that comes with the DX cable from Karcepts does not work even tho the packageing says it will work with this swap and Manifold/TB. the OEM one from the RSX is the closest to holding the cable properly..

im starting to think it may be a tune issue being that the ECU says one thing and the motor is doing another

[nixrsx]

seems like the fuel is cutting out right after start up, it does not sound like i have anymore vacuum leaks.

[Spunkster]

You need to try the ECU on a known working vehicle as it sounds like there could be a number of problems with your current setup. If the ECU works in a known good vehicle you will need to start correcting each item in your car systematically.

[nixrsx]

You need to try the ECU on a known working vehicle as it sounds like there could be a number of problems with your current setup. If the ECU works in a known good vehicle you will need to start correcting each item in your car systematically.

nothing wrong with my ECU it worked in my RSX and also tried it in my friends RSX and ran w no issue

[nixrsx]

update: playing around with the car again today noticed my duty cycle is at 1% after start up and thats all it is reading, my guess is the injectors may not working mechanically. the injector clips are grounded on the thermostat housing, could this cause an issue?

have a kmotor FPR and new fuel filter reads 58psi at the rail i have not checked for pulse at the clips yet.

saw a post that mentioned pulling the injectors spray with carb clean and feed 12V to it until you can hear the injector click
[urlhttp://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95081[/url]

another member mentioned having a similar issue that i am dealing with

oh also ordered the correct throttle cable

[nixrsx]

update: still messing around with the car, having no luck.

i had my fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested and still same results. all the clips have 12V and pulse, also all spark plugs coils are sending spark. i had my dad crank while i used a test light.

Pulled the spark plugs an there is fuel there

Maybe my primary o2 sensor is wired in backwards? or overall just a really bad tuning issue?


man is this frustrating

going to try the ecu in a diff rsx again