Wideband on ELD input

[beanbooger]

See the blue highlighted text below. When would it be appropriate to remove R136 and R138? I have a Hondata-modified S300V3 ECU with the OBD2A connector, so I will be coming in on D16. Does that matter with respect to removing R136 and R138? I want to be able to run closed loop with target AFR tables, at least at low boost/part load. Thanks!

[Spunkster]

D16 is not a valid input,

Those resistors only refer to using D10 as an input.

[beanbooger]

So even though my Hondata ECU has an OBD2A connector (meaning that I don't use any adapters between my stock '98 civic EX OBD2A wiring harness and the Hondata ECU), I don't use D16 instead of D10 as per the attached chart? That is odd because I am definitely running Boost Control on A7 instead of A11 and that works just fine. Can you please clarify?

2017-06-07_11-43-20.jpg

[Spunkster]

Yes you must use the correct pin based on that chart, but I'm referring to OBD1 pinouts as they are listed in the software. It is still an OBD1 ECU

[beanbooger]

So what you are saying is: on my ECU with it's OBD2A connector, I would wire the Wideband to D16. If my ECU had an OBD1 connector, I would wire it to D10. But on my ECU OBD2A D16 is electronically the same as OBD1 D10, right? I think it is, which DOES make D16 a valid input for THIS particular ECU, correct? Even though in the software, I still have to select D10 as the input, that makes sense.

Which brings me back to my original question. What is the deal with removing R136 and R138? How will I know if they need to be removed?

Thanks for hanging with me on this one!

[TTR]

When you use the ELD pin the displayed A/F will bottom out around 12:1. So removing those two resistors will allow it to display down to whatever your wideband reads at 0 volts. It typically lowers the amount of voltage offset you need to sync the wideband to the software. When I use the ELD input for a wideband I always pull those resistors.

[beanbooger]

Excellent and helpful answer. Thank you very much!