Car stalls with electrical load on

[Andrewt]

Hooked up wideband to d10, dissabled eld, cut wire to eld and cut resistors at R136, R138 was missing, set voltage to a/f as per lm1 manual, AF reading and data-logging correctly.
Funny thing is now when I turn on my lights or brake the car stalls when idling, looked at data log and noticed my Bat voltage would start dropping and then stalls, I hooked up my wideband after getting sick of tuning with my wideband in my hand. Eld was always disabled prior to cutting eld wire and car never stalled before, suspect alternator, but too much of a coincidence me thinks. Car is a 99 prelude. Research says eld does not matter or does it on a 99 Prelude.?.?
Was thinking of reconnecting r136 and eld wire and attempt to log via the 8 analog inputs<(I couldn't get this to work earlier but i think the new sept15 release fixes this, could be wrong tho) so before I pull out the solder gun, thought i'd ask here first.

99 prelude h22a, 89x95, obd2a to obd1 harness
p08 converted to p28
s300 v3 32010
added map and log of stalling (idled car and turned on lights)

[AREA876]

Were the injector dead time set correctly

[Andrewt]

Yep, rdx injectors are being used. Set to Smanagers dead times in drop menu. Left at Smanagers default 440...alway thought rdx injectors are 410. Tried both 410 and 440...no really difference in A/F. Still stalls with load introduced.

[Spunkster]

What kind of fan do you have?

[Andrewt]

Oem and original rad and condenser fan. Heater/blower fan is original as well if that matters. Thanks.

[Spunkster]

I just realized you said you have a P08, but are not using an s300j. That could be part of the issue as the regular s300 should only be use din a USDM/rectangular ECU, not in the JDM/square ECU. Also the resistors should only be removed on a USDM ECU to my knowledge as those may have nothing to do with the ELD input on a JDM ECU.

[Andrewt]

Whoops sorry, meant to type a p06 from a canadian civic converted to a p28. Definitely not a jdm ecu. Sorry for the confusion

[Spunkster]

Try putting it back the way it was before and see if it works properly. If it does , then maybe something has been wired incorrectly.

[Andrewt]

Update: alternator was culprit, replaced and problem went away. Coincidence I suppose but I have a weird situation now. After replacing the alternator a week ago, did some fine tuning to A/f ratio and went to dyno last weekend to see where I was at. All good, car drives great, etc.

Now's the weird part. I decided to re-attach the eld wire I cut for the a/f sensor for data logging and re-attach the r136 resistor, (I just snipped the end and bent it up) and use the analog input instead (analog 1). (what I originally intended to do).

Started up car and it ran and idled super lean, 17-20:1 about 15-20 sec after cold start up. Tried everything, re-calibrated wideband several times (pulled it out and did a free air calibration) bosch 17014 for an lm1, wideband is only 2 months old, re-programmed lm1, deleted and re-installed Smanager, tried several different older version of my map, Erased ecu, Led is green on startup, red led flashes with lap top hookedup and goes away disconnected, no codes, no permanent red led, etc etc. I didnt want to mess and add fuel since I took so long getting it right.Thinking i pooched my ecu.

So I decided to cut the resistor again and go back to D10 as one last chance, guess what,...it runs like it did before again with the proper a/f ratios all the way to warm up. Go figure? It runs fine, datalogs etc. Is there something wrong with my ecu? This doesn't sound normal, what am i missing? Do I just leave it? that would be my first impression. Thanks for all the help btw.

[Spunkster]

Post a detailed diagram of exactly how you have this wired as well as post your calibration and a datalog showing the issue.

[Andrewt]

Sorry for late reply, had a bout with the unholy flu.
Ok so this is what I did, Since the car would run lean with Eld re-connected and the wide band disconnected from the eld input, I went back to the D10 input and cut resistor R136 again(removed it this time) nothing in R138, Car now runs fine, but noticed that when I disconnect the wide band input into d10 from my LM1 wideband. (unplug stereo connector jack from lm1) the car would start running lean again, idle AF would would jump from 13.8 to 17.1. (same thing as previous complaint) I'm not sure what is going on and pretty sure the s300 doesn't need a constant wide band input. Open loop is set and O2 heater disabled in parameters.

Data-logged condition, from what i can see, the ignition graph line goes fuzzier the moment I disconnect the analog input and smooths out when re-connected. Here's the time frame of disconnect and re-connect.
@1.00 minute; disconnect
@1.40 re-connect
@2.00 disconnect
@2.20 re-connect
@2.40 disconnect
@2.50 re-connect

You can actually see the lean condition in the Af display in the data log for a second before it corrects itself back to 13.8-14.0 AF. Now All I did for wiring is use an obd2a to obd1 harness(got it from ebay). Cut the d10 wire at the conversion harness and input the wide band analog signal at that point, used male and female crimp connectors for easy disconect and reconnect. Wide band is powered directly from the under hood fuse box from the 8mm head bolt that hold down the wire from the fuse box to the battery positive . Ground is at thermostat housing. both utilizing typical blue crimp style eye connector. Voltage drops were done at same locations to ensure good connections. I Can still make fuel and ignition adjustments and the car react accordingly. so the worst is I have to constantly run my wide band hooked up, but I think there's something flakey going on.

Any insight would be appreciated.