Hi all - I have a K20a swap in my 02 rsx.. i have a CAI DC race header and Borla CatBack
I got my K-PRO on the weekend and uploaded the ITRCams+CAI+JRHDR calibration. The car runs awesome...except my Idle.
I raised it to 1000 from 750 as I have a Torque Damper and want to ease off the vibes.
It seems to jump between 1500 and 1000. Like when I let off the throttle and depress the clutch it goes to 1500 and then drops to 1000 a few seconds later. If I leave it running at idle it can (even when well and warmed up) Jump every so often
Thanks
Idle issues with my K-PRO
1. Make sure your TPS is set so that it is between -1 and 0 at idle. It has a security screw so it is a pain to adjust. You can tap it carefully with a punch if you just need to tweak it a percent or two. (be careful - Honda doesn't sell the TPS seperate from the throttle body!)
2. Reduce the ignition advance on the 0 degree map in the first 5 columns up to (and including ) 1500 rpm (approx idle area). You may need to reduce to ignition to anywhere from 15 to 20 degrees.
3. Reduce idle speed slightly (850 - 950 rpm usually works).
4. Datalog and check that the cam angle is zero at idle. If not, check #1
Note that after uploading a calibration the ECU takes a little while to learn the correct duty cycle for the idle valve (even if the upload is a very small change it resets the ECU's memory). If the car is hot then this learning process happens in a couple of minutes, but if the car is cold the ECU won't learn until the car is hot - and in the meantime, the engine sometimes stalls with large injectors. The trick is to not increase the idle speed too much to prevent the engine stalling if the engine is cold, because it will fix itself once the ECU learns the idle.
If you get a slight misfire at idle once the car is warm, slowly enrichen the idle target A/F ratio.
2. Reduce the ignition advance on the 0 degree map in the first 5 columns up to (and including ) 1500 rpm (approx idle area). You may need to reduce to ignition to anywhere from 15 to 20 degrees.
3. Reduce idle speed slightly (850 - 950 rpm usually works).
4. Datalog and check that the cam angle is zero at idle. If not, check #1
Note that after uploading a calibration the ECU takes a little while to learn the correct duty cycle for the idle valve (even if the upload is a very small change it resets the ECU's memory). If the car is hot then this learning process happens in a couple of minutes, but if the car is cold the ECU won't learn until the car is hot - and in the meantime, the engine sometimes stalls with large injectors. The trick is to not increase the idle speed too much to prevent the engine stalling if the engine is cold, because it will fix itself once the ECU learns the idle.
If you get a slight misfire at idle once the car is warm, slowly enrichen the idle target A/F ratio.
Hondata
Ok I am looking at the 0 degree table.
Question #1 - can I adjust the 2 values in the first 2 columns (500 & 750) they are in red...?
Quesiton # 2 - as I adjust these values from 500 - 1500 rpm in the first 5 columns should I try to keep the same value spacing that is already there?
For instance in column 1 at 1000 the default value is 18.50 and at 1250 it is 20.50 should I drop the 1000 value to say 16.50 and set the 1250 to 18.50?
Thanks for your help!
Question #1 - can I adjust the 2 values in the first 2 columns (500 & 750) they are in red...?
Quesiton # 2 - as I adjust these values from 500 - 1500 rpm in the first 5 columns should I try to keep the same value spacing that is already there?
For instance in column 1 at 1000 the default value is 18.50 and at 1250 it is 20.50 should I drop the 1000 value to say 16.50 and set the 1250 to 18.50?
Thanks for your help!
What is a Toda Spec C highcam? Is this a non-VTEC cam?Civic-R wrote:What is the most suitable idling to set actually?I'm using a Toda Spec C highcam.Currently i set it at 1000rpm.I encountered my engine dies off itself & my defi meters oil pressure shows it drop slowly.Should i set my idling higher like 1200 rpm?
First try moving the idle valve duty control slider to the right a couple of notches. This should hold the rpm higher when you release the throttle.
Hondata
Hi,Hondata wrote:#1 - the red shows which cells the ECU is using. You can edit these.
#2 - you don't need to preserve the differential. Edit them all to 15 degrees or so.
How to make or set the car to idle at 17.1 A/F ratio. No matter what value I changed under Idle parameters, the A/F CMD still show 14.59
Secondly, is that a way to set the TPS to 0%. Mine showing 1% at idle.
Hondata wrote:What is a Toda Spec C highcam? Is this a non-VTEC cam?Civic-R wrote:What is the most suitable idling to set actually?I'm using a Toda Spec C highcam.Currently i set it at 1000rpm.I encountered my engine dies off itself & my defi meters oil pressure shows it drop slowly.Should i set my idling higher like 1200 rpm?
First try moving the idle valve duty control slider to the right a couple of notches. This should hold the rpm higher when you release the throttle.
I've checked already.Toda Spec C Highcam is a VTEC cam.
Previously i set my idling at 1000 rpm.Now i set it at 1300 rpm.Is it too high?Another question,at which rpm is the best & accurate for vtec engagement point?Is for K20A JDM Civic Type R EP3 & i'm using K-Pro.
Toda Spec C Vtec Highcam,Toda Exhaust Manifold,Toda Valve Springs,Toda High Compression Piston,Toda Campulley,Mugen Air Cleaner Box,Mugen Metal Head Gasket,Mugen Fan Switch,Mugen Thermostat,Mugen Ignition Coil Cover,
The Euro CTR does not have a wideband sensor. It is a narrowband and cannot be used to get any accurate readiings of air/fuel.Hoggy wrote:Yup, done that but seem to have no effect on the af ratio. It seems to be locked at 14.59.krystar wrote:idle tarrget lambda is set in the parameters window. Idle tab.