Turbo miss

[rudy543us]

Hello,

1994 Honda accord 2.2 using the Hondata S200
Back history:
The car sat for 2 years, I changed out the timing/balancer belt, water pump and cleaned the 440lb fuel injectors. Prior to it sitting it ran fine the idle was a little erratic at times but it otherwise ran well.

While at boost (10 LB of boost)
It acts as there is no fuel. But my air fuel mixture is above 16 which is a good thing (Plenty of fuel).
I do not hear a back fire and it feels as if there is a power loss in short almost rhythmic spurts.
I think it has to be a spark issue.

This is normal driving without boost (highway and street conditions).
Not sure if this issue is related, my air fuel mixture drops to 10 and the car runs erratic. This will happen at random times no set period or temp it just happens for about 3-5 minutes then stops. This is even with casual driving not using boost.
If I am stopped it will idle very low 300 RPM and almost die.

Does anyone think spark plug gap could be a culprit? (I have the plugs Gaped for a naturally aspirated stock configuration)

Thank you

[Spunkster]

If it is reading above 16 AFR under boost then it is running dangerously lean and you need to correct the problem before you damage your engine.

[rudy543us]

OK that helps, so if the number is higher it is leaner, (repeating myself in a different manner)
If the AFR needle is further to the left and the number on the digital display is bigger 16 + it is leaner.

So most likely I have a fuel starvation issue.
Please confirm I understand you correctly.

Please don’t laugh, I have always been an old school naturally aspirated guy, this is all new to me.

[Spunkster]

I would highly recommend taking this to a tuner to resolve the issue of why it is running dangerously lean. With an s200 you will not be able to really make any changes yourself.

[rudy543us]

The car sat for two years, the injectors were completely clogged. I should have changed out the fuel filter at the same time. I have a feeling that is the issue, I will get back to you with updates.

Thank you for your help.

[rudy543us]

The air fuel mixture issue is solved but I still have a strange boost issue.
If I accelerate moderately it is fine (5-8lb) but if I get on it and head to 10 it starts lurching and bucking. At one point I think it back fired. The entire time the air Fuel mixture stayed in the middle More or Less. Any ideas?

[rudy543us]

The air fuel mixture issue is solved but I still have a strange boost issue.
If I accelerate moderately it is fine (5-8lb) but if I get on it and head to 10 it starts lurching and bucking. At one point I think it back fired. The entire time the air Fuel mixture stayed in the middle More or Less. Any ideas?

So I went to a site called http://synapseengineering.com/ and found a video called solving misfires. This guy is honest, rather than trying to sell you a piece of his gear he tells you how to solve the issue yourself.
The solution is a matter of dropping your spark plug gap 5-10 Thousand from your cars stock non-turbo specification.

Result: It worked my plugs were fouled and at hi boost (10+LB) my car would misfire like crazy.
Thanks to the folks on this site that got me to this point.

Thank you

[rudy543us]

I spoke to soon.

Now I have plenty of fuel but it seems that my plugs are getting blown out.
It is fine at 5-8lb but when I head to 10= LB it shudders and backfires.

Things to know, this car was running fine with the same configuration.
The car sat for 2 years, I changed the following.
Timing/ balancer belt
Plugs NGK R with 11 heat rating= gaped at 30 thousands
Fuel filter
Oil pan gasket

Help!

[Spunkster]

Did you drain the fuel completely and make sure there was no debris in the fuel tank?

[rudy543us]

:( No and I was thinking the same thing, that is what I get for being lazy.
I have made some other discoveries; the plugs that were installed were for a different model car.
I used OEM NGK plugs as a replacement with a heat range of 5, the plugs that it had were installed were longer with a heat range of 7 also NGK.

I will drain the Gas tank Soon.

[rudy543us]

Hello,

My car has a Hondata S200.
It ran fine before it was left to sit.

So here is my current status,
The car sat for about two years and did not run when I got it.
I clean the 440LB injectors.
Replaced (RP) the Timing and balancer belts
RP the water pump
RP the aftermarket AEM fuel filter ( covered in crude)
RP the fuel pump
RP spark plugs.

Parked at idle I have about 40 LB of Fuel pressure when I rev it rises to 60LB.
The car idles well and as long as I do not pass 5LB boost it is fine. Once I pass that it acts as if it is holding itself back.
The Air fuel meter (AFM) goes lean.

I noticed that my brake pedal slowly drops to the floor and if I am at ideal and stop the brake it affects the AFM's readings moderately.
So could my issue be a vacuum leak?
Please let me know what else you need to help me trouble shoot my car.
I have been trying to get the data record to work with my laptop but the Serial to USB interface is not playing well now.
I am sure that type of data would make this all much easier.

[rudy543us]

Hello,

So I read this Post on Crank case vent issues. Does anyone think this could be my issue?

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1199935

The Official Crankcase Evacuation thread for Turbo Hondas / PCV / Catchcan /

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This thread marks the conclusion to my preliminary tests started over 1 year ago.
You may want to familiarize yourself with the purpose and function of the stock PCV system with my original thread first.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=697498

The purpose of the stock PCV system falls under 3 categories:

1) Performance
2) Emissions standards
3) Reliability

Performance
It is well known that performance gains can be had if the crankcase is under a slight source of vacuum which helps reduce crankcase windage losses. Many domestic users have seen decent gains by using either an electric or mechanical pump to help evacuate the pressure generated in the crankcase and even generate a vacuum present. Regaining lost power through the introduction of vacuum pressure evacuating the crankcase will not be as noticeable on a small displacement 4 cylinder as compared to a larger displacement 8cyl domestic. Despite this, it should still be of importance to explore the various configurations and attempt to "free-up" any power hidden in our engines which can easily be tested on a dyno.

Emissions Standards and Reliability
In order to comply with US emission standards honda had to use a closed PCV system which eliminated oil vapor from escaping into the atmosphere either from the valve cover or the crankcase breather. Oil vapors being introduced into our cylinders hurts performance and increases the probability of detonation occurring. The stock PCV system allows for the introduction of oil vapors into our intake manifold which hurts performance and reliability(a stock intake manifold is usually caked with collected oil and soot over the years).

A stock PCV system is far from an optimal configuration in terms of performance and reliability. The best arrangement is to create a vacuum inside the crankcase of 14-15 inches/Hg (7psi). You do not want to create higher vacuum than 15 in/Hg because you will begin to suck oil from valve guides, piston rings, and bearings which will have dramatic consequences. Inducing a vacuum in your crankcase will lower oil pressure slightly which may be alarming but shouldn't be because the oil volume is still present. 2-5 % increase in whp is not uncommon with a properly setup vacuum drawn crankcase pulling 15in/Hg.

This Vacuum will quickly remove unburnt Air/Fuel from blow-by gasses. Blow-by contaminates engine oil, contributes to sludge buildup, and causes corrosion. Turbocharged and Supercharged cars have significant amounts of blow-by because of the pressure created inside the cylinders. Your first priority should be to attempt to create a vacuum in the crankcase to remove the blow-by or at minimum make it as easy as possible for this pressure to escape.

Evacuating the crankcase pressure can be done directly from the block or valve cover. It doesn't matter which method you prefer.

[rudy543us]

So I have been reading about inproperly adjusted Waste gates and failed springs.
I am going to check this weekend, I have a feeling this may be my issue.

[rudy543us]

Problem solved,

1994 Honda accord T3 Turbo and built engine.
The car sat for 3 years > or <, so I did the basics first.
Oil change, fuel filter drained the tank and changed out the fuel pump.
Cleaned the injectors and chased down all the vacuum leaks.
Finally sorted out some shabby wiring and the car still would not boost past 5 PSI.

The solution I adjusted the Waste gate and blow off valve it was the blow off valve and boost controller, they needed to be adjusted.

Thank you all for all your help and advice.

Now if I could just keep the tires from breaking loose, 320 HP TO TO MUCH FUN!