Low 10 second datalog

[9queSt]

any advice with the launch rpm/ant-lag??
what is the rpm/mph jump at 7500rpm in 3 and 4 gear??



Vehicle Make / Model / Year: 95 HONDA CIVIC

Engine Model: b18c1

Setup Details (Compression/Boltons etc):

Goal: 600hp @ ~25psi

· E85 fuel

· Precision 6262 .82ar turbine

· 74mm skunk2 tb

· Victor x intake manifold

· A1000 with -10 feed, -6 return

· PLX wideband

· Golden Eagle sleeved 84mm

· GSR crank

· Eagle H rods

· JE asymmetrical 9:1 84mm

· GSR head

· Skunk2 cams

· GSR valves

· Suppertech valve springs 70lbs

· SKunk2 adjustable cam gears

· CPR coil on plug w/ bkr9eix

[jun1or]

Nice setup. While I cannot provide input on the launch & anti-lag, I can point out a couple observations.

1.) On the 1320 datalog, I noticed AFR's going full rich from timestamp 1:25 to 1:27. After looking at the fuel high cam table, It *appears* as if the tuner stopped after column 18 (27.6psi) and did not tune column 19 (31.7psi). Take a look at the 2d map and you will see what I see. Hondata interpolates values in between columns, so if you are running 30lbs of boost, yada yada... I could be wrong here, just pointing what I see from an outsiders perspective.

2.) Ever consider refining the "Boost vs RPM vs Gear" table to attain maximum tractive capacity? For example from 1:15-1:17 in second gear, increase boost a bit and taper it down when peak torque comes in.

3.) Along those notes, you may (or may not) want to modify the "Pressure vs Duty Cycle" table to make the "boost by rpm by gear" table accurate. For instance you're requesting 20lbs in gears 3-4 and receiving ~29-31lbs. Some people just use gear based duty cycle as to avoid the need to populate the "Pressure vs Duty Cycle" table. Personal preference.

My 2c.

Mike

[9queSt]

Nice setup. While I cannot provide input on the launch & anti-lag, I can point out a couple observations.

1.) On the 1320 datalog, I noticed AFR's going full rich from timestamp 1:25 to 1:27. After looking at the fuel high cam table, It *appears* as if the tuner stopped after column 18 (27.6psi) and did not tune column 19 (31.7psi). Take a look at the 2d map and you will see what I see. Hondata interpolates values in between columns, so if you are running 30lbs of boost, yada yada... I could be wrong here, just pointing what I see from an outsiders perspective.

2.) Ever consider refining the "Boost vs RPM vs Gear" table to attain maximum tractive capacity? For example from 1:15-1:17 in second gear, increase boost a bit and taper it down when peak torque comes in.

3.) Along those notes, you may (or may not) want to modify the "Pressure vs Duty Cycle" table to make the "boost by rpm by gear" table accurate. For instance you're requesting 20lbs in gears 3-4 and receiving ~29-31lbs. Some people just use gear based duty cycle as to avoid the need to populate the "Pressure vs Duty Cycle" table. Personal preference.

My 2c.


Mike

Thank you for looking things over.

1)I agree it does look like the tuner stopped tuning at column 19. The final dyno pull was at full boost because the boost controller line popped off. Looks like I need those tables tuned for max performance.

2)I like the Idea of increasing boost in 2nd gear and then lowering it. Do you think I could start with 17lbs and then decrease it to 13lbs. Will the turbo be able to slow down fast enough to make the change??

3) I was requesting 30lbs in 3rd and 4th gear when the data log was made. 30lbs is about 58%dc.

I cant wait to try higher boost in 2nd at the track.

Thanks
Rick

[jun1or]

Take my advice with a grain of salt based on your needs, as I do not frequent the drag strip often. Just going off a combination of theory, hondata help files, hondata forums, and personal experience tuning. That being said...

The mac solenoid responds very fast, it's up to the rest of the system to respond somewhat reasonably.

I have had very good luck using only gear based duty cycle. I just find that by populating the "Pressure vs Duty Cycle" and then the "Boost by RPM by Gear" is tedious and then changes based on weather/altitude/etc. Again, no right or wrong, just personal preference. Of course I am a datalog whore, so I tend to live by the motto, log everything, check later.

Regarding your question #2 specifically, based on your spool characteristics, I would think it's very feasible. The 6262 is a tad laggy but looks like you're flowing well. I use both the PTE5857 in a 1.8 GSR FWD and the PTE5862 in an f22 RWD, both are very responsive, but your mileage may vary. The way I would approach this is by looking at your dyno plot, specifically torque curve. To attain maximum traction, you want to make your torque curve as flat as possible, so be sure that boost decreases as your torque curve increases, as to flatten it. If you have some more dyno time, that would be the best time to flatten that curve out :)

Good luck, and I'd love to hear the results. Please do share... with logs even better.

Mike

[jun1or]

9queSt, pm rec'd. Glad to help via email, but keep posting in this thread (or others) as to help other members. I rely on forums like no other; it helps the community grow, especially in a niche market such as this. I've subscribed to this thread!

Mike (JR)

[jun1or]

Any updates? Curious how it turned out.

[jromero2002]

I have some observations to add after looking at your tune and datalog.


The jump in RPM and MPH you are referring to seems to be a lack of traction. Wheel Spin.


As far as launch control goes depending on the track I would increase negative timing to something like -18 and add more fuel 30-80. Watch how much PSI gets built up at the launch. Your only building 6psi on the log. 10-15 is usually a good target at most tracks.

Your above 30psi for most of 3rd and 4th. You really need 19.

[9queSt]

sorry its been a while. I found out I need to make some susspension adjustments.

A few months ago I set the front sturts so the front end could only lift 1 inch before the struts limited the lift. I noticed that the car now lifts to one inch and goes down the track with no susspension travel. It is my opinion that the front springs are no longer pressing the tires to the pavement.

I increase the travel of the front strut. and also lowered the rear. the front should only lift as high as the rear sits. I had the rear jacked up to high.

[jun1or]

sorry its been a while. I found out I need to make some susspension adjustments.

A few months ago I set the front sturts so the front end could only lift 1 inch before the struts limited the lift. I noticed that the car now lifts to one inch and goes down the track with no susspension travel. It is my opinion that the front springs are no longer pressing the tires to the pavement.

I increase the travel of the front strut. and also lowered the rear. the front should only lift as high as the rear sits. I had the rear jacked up to high.

No worries, do what you gotta do. I subscribed to this thread, so feel free to update with BBG/tuning ?'s/updates.

I myself am hitting the dyno tomorrow to dial in some boost by gear on my s2k.

Mike

[9queSt]

sorry its been a while. I found out I need to make some susspension adjustments.

A few months ago I set the front sturts so the front end could only lift 1 inch before the struts limited the lift. I noticed that the car now lifts to one inch and goes down the track with no susspension travel. It is my opinion that the front springs are no longer pressing the tires to the pavement.

I increase the travel of the front strut. and also lowered the rear. the front should only lift as high as the rear sits. I had the rear jacked up to high.

No worries, do what you gotta do. I subscribed to this thread, so feel free to update with BBG/tuning ?'s/updates.

I myself am hitting the dyno tomorrow to dial in some boost by gear on my s2k.

Mike

Im installing the trans today. How was the dyno?

[jun1or]

Im installing the trans today. How was the dyno?

Dyno was good. 440hp, 300tq. Not bad for 100% stock block.

Any updates?