No-run condition

[DaOne]

I went out cruising with some friends over the weekend.
I was beating on it pretty good for about 30 min. Doing full boost pulls and some hard downshifts along the way.
While cruising in 3rd gear going 45mph I tried stepping on the gas and noticed i wasn't going anywhere, I looked at my A/F gage and noticed that it was leaning out completely when i tried stepping on the gas. My check engine light went on as I pulled into a parking lot and tried revving the engine, and it stalled out.
I went to restart it and it would sound like it would "catch" but then just drop like a rock. I checked for spark and it was sparking.
Tried over and over again until I gave up and just had a friend with a SRT4 pull me over to his house (he lived 10 min away, i live about 20 min from there)

The next day I went over and tried to start it again and it would do the same. as soon as it felt like it was gonna start it would fall on its face.
Tried spraying starting fluid and it would start maybe1/10 attempts.
And when it did start it would not rev past 2k RPM.
and run PIG RICH. A/F was over 10:1 (aem gage cant read anything lower than that)

When it did start, Check Engine light went on for MAP SENSOR. Im thinking its the same code that went on the first time it stalled. Code doesn't save once the car is shut off.

I have hondata S300 so Im able to look at some sensors and such, but it all looks "normal" to me. TPS sensor reads right, not choppy or anything.

I tried checking timing today, But i failed since my little compressor tank seems to not have what it takes to get my pulley off. (Dont have my timing belt cover on atm, kept rubbing the pulley)
I have an adjustable cam gear, I stuck my dipstick in #1 cylinder and turned the crank until the cam gear was at TDC and the dipstick went up to the top. Im assuming timing is correct/close to it, UNTIL i can find a way to check with my crank lined up to my oil pump timing line.


IMG_20130402_134343.jpg Photo by daone54 | Photobucket

Does the symptoms seem like belt jumped?
Why would it start SOMETIMES 1/10 times i try
What are some things i should check when i go over and take a look at it again?

Im running 440cc injectors
3 bar map
on S300. Im tunned for boost. It was all running fine prior to this (been running on this set up for about 2-3 months)

One thing i do find "weird is my map sensor reading" heres a video of it when it finally wants to run
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRSX1Ev ... ata_player
And my vacuum reads about 10 while its idleing. it would usually be around 16-17.
And there is no vacuum leaks i can hear or see.
would a bad map sensor cause a no run condition?
After a few tries of starting it, the check engine light will stay on.(solid light, no codes show up on s300 AND tps and other sensors seem to freeze, tps stays at -12%) And the only way to get rid of it is to upload my tune to s300 again.

Any help is appreciated.
THANKS!

[Luke]

wrong reading, map sensor error code?

what about changing that sensor? would check the stock sensor, if the car runs.

well, of course, not in highest boost, but for low boost or N/A driving this will work just fine.

you could double check your sensor with an external gauge and some air pressure.

best regards Lukas

[DaOne]

Thanks for the reply luke.
I guess I can go grab another 3 bar gm map sensor and try it out.
I just don't known if the map sensor would keep it from starting.

Timing belt is good. And so is the distributor. I replaced it with a new one, and made sure it wasn't 180* out.

[Luke]

MAP and the crank signals (TDC, revs, etc.) are the basic signals you need, because with those signals the ECU knows how much fuel the engine shall get and when it shall fire.

a misreading MAP-Sensor let the ECU think, that you are in a higher column, than you actually are.

so more fuel is provided (or not enough) and the car runs very rich, so rich, that it can't fire anymore.

my opinion: if you don't know the basics, and sorry it seems that you don't, let it get checked by someone who know, what he/she is doing.

further on: if you have too much money, that you can replace things, that don't seem faulty at any time, I'd like to give you my bank account number :D so you can send me as much money as you want and don't need anymore :P

best regards Lukas

[DaOne]

I have another civic with a d16z6. My coil went out on it 2 weeks ago. I figured swapping it out would be easy enough, and so I did. Which ruled out a bad dizzy, for free. Lol

I also know that a stock civic will start up with a map sensor unplugged.
The times that the car did start, my wideband was reading below 10:1 a/f ratio. While my map sensor was still reading 29.1. So it was running RICH instead of lean. Which is the opposite of what I think would happen if the map sensor was sending an extreme vacuum reading (29.1) value. U know what I mean?

I know enough to be dangerous I guess =P
Lol jp
I'll be replacing the MAP sensor with a known good one today though. And see how that goes