OBD 0 Owner wants to go to Obd 1
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Fulldragcrx
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2002 3:43 pm
- Location: Columbia, maryland
OBD 0 Owner wants to go to Obd 1
I know its been done before but does any one know of a step by step website to go to. Hasport was supposed to do a crx and convert to OBD1 and show step by step but i have yet to see them release any info on it??? I know youll need OBD1 injectors, dist, ecu, gray plug harness and you need to remove the injector resistor box but how to do all this and do it properly is what i would like more info on. anybody?? Hondata rocks.
Convert OB-0 To OB-1
there are several changes that must be made to run a 1992-1995 motor in a 1988-1991 car. I find it is best to modify the 1988-1991 harness rather than trying to make the 1992-1995 harness work. The changes are as follows:
1. Change the distributer plugs. This is actually quite straightforeward. There are two plugs. One has seven wires. The other has two. With the seven wire plugs, you will find that there are six thin wires and one thicker one. The thin wires are collectively the same colors on the 1988-1991 harness as on the 1992-1995 harness. Stick the pins on the 1988-1991 harness into the spots where like colored wires went on the 1992-1995 harness. In other words, stick the orange wire on the 1988-1991 harness where the orange wire went on the 1992-1995 harness. The exception is the fatter wire for the ignitor signal. This wire is white on the 1988-1991 harness and yellow/green on the 1992-1995 harness. Stick the thicker white wire on the 1988-1991 harness to the spot occupied by the yellow/green wire on the 1992-1995 harness. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add wires for the CYP sensor. The other plug has a thick black/yellow wire and a thin blue wire on both harnesses. Simply stick the wires in the same spots or connect like colors.
2. Change and relocate the thermoswitch plug. The thermoswitch is located on the back of the block by the oil pressure sending unit on 1988-1991 engines. It has a yellow/green and a black wire connected to it. On 1992-1995 engines, it is located on the thermostat housing. And the plug has a green and black wire connected to it. You must remove the plug on the 1988-1991 harness and solder on the corresponding plug on the 1992-1995 harness. When you cut this plug from the 1992-1995 harness, make sure to leave enough wire connected to it so that it will reach to the thermostat housing.
3. Change injector plugs and eliminate the resistor. This is fairly straightforeward if you have an HF/
SI. Simply connect like colors on the ECU side of the plug. On the hot side, it may actually be easier if you use the complete 1992-1995 wire all the way back to the 8-wire connector. Then you can connect the 8-wire connector where the injector resistor was. This saves time and soldering. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add the 8-wire connector to the wire going to the hot side of the injectors and add two wires from the extra injectors to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.
4. Reroute the wires coming over the intake manifold. On 1988-1991 HF and SI models, there are a couple of wires (I forget which) coming up and over the intake manifold from around the distributer. Although this is not absolutely necessary, they should be rerouted under the manifold for a clean, stock appearance. This also allows you to use the 1992-1995 injector wire holder. I should note that this is not necessary with a DPFI model. This is the one case where a DX is actually easier!
5. Add the four wire oxygen sensor. This is not nearly as hard as it may seem. Use the original, shielded sensor lead on the 1988-1991 harness for the sensor output. Connect the sensor ground to the green/white wire that forms the sensor ground for the TPS, IAT, and CTS on the 1988-1991 harness. Connect the heater hot to the 8-wire connector on the hot side of the injector. And run a separate wire for the heater control to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.
6. Add wires for the VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch, and knock sensor. This is only necessary with a B16A. If you are swapping in a B18A/B18B, none of this is necessary. With a D16Z6, the knock sensor is not necessary. And with the B18C, you will need to add one more wire for the IAB. In any case, this is no different from the changes required for a 1988-1991 B16A. Just remember to ground the black lead on the VTEC pressure switch, use a shielded wire for the knock sensor, and ground the shield.
7. Relocate the wires to the MAP sensor and purge
valve. The MAP sensor plug may actually reach the throttle body mounted MAP sensor on the 1992-1995 engine. But you may want to extend it so that you can neatly mount the wire to the firewall. If you extend it, you may want to use the 1992-1995 gray plug for a neater, more stock look. For the purge valve, you will need to extend the wires to valve on the driver's side of the intake manifold. If you have an SI, you will need to run a hot (in start/run) wire to the valve. Connect this wire to the yellow/black wire on the plug for the solenoid. Connect the other wire to the existing lead to the ECU. This is not a problem with DPFI or HF models, as they already have a hot wire going to the solenoid (The ECU grounds it rather than sending power to it).
8. Depending on the model Civic/CRX you have and the engine you swap in, you may need to extend or shorten a few wires (like the TPS, IACV, etc.) in order to make the harness fit better. If you must lengthen wires, it is easier if you just cut the plug from the 1992-1995 harness with the length of wire you need. You will then only need to make one solder per wire. It will also look neater. Of course, the 1988-1991 plugs WILL work for any of the other plugs which I did not specifically say must be changed.
this was not written by me its "Storminmatt" from another forum....
this is from the Hasport web site
Wiring Conversion Non OBD to OBD1
non-OBD OBD 1 Terminal description
A1 A1 #1 injector
A3 A3 #2 injector
A5 A5 #3 injector
A7 A2 #4 injector
A13 A25 IGN power 1 for ECU
A15 B1 IGN power 2 for ECU
A2 A23 Power ground 1 for ECU
A4 A24 Power Ground 2 for ECU
A16 A26 Logic Ground 1 for ECU
A18 B2 Logic ground 2 for ECU
A6 A20 EVAP Purge control solenoid valve
- - Fuel tank pressure sensor
A8 A4 VTEC solenoid
A10 - Fuel pressure solenoid vlave
A12 A7 Fuel pump relay
A14 - Fuel pump relay
B6 A13 Malfunction indicator lamp
B15 A21 Igniter
B17 - Igniter
A11 A9 IACV (EACV)
C16 D14 Primary O2 signal
- A6 Primary HO2 heater control
C8 - Secondary O2 signal
- - Secondary HO2 heater control
- A17 IAB (GSR)
B4 A12 Radiator fan control
- - Tandem valve control solenoid
- - CKF P
- - CKF G
B10 B15 CKP P
B12 B16 CKP G
C3 B13 TDC P
C4 B14 TDC G
C1 B11 CYP P
C2 B12 CYP G
B3 A15 A/C clutch relay
B8 B5 A/C switch
B13 B9 Starter switch signal
B20 D4 Service check signal (Ignition timing adjusting connector)
- - K-Line
B1 D1 DTC memory voltage
B5 D6 VTEC oil pressure
- B8 Power steering pressure switch
C10 D2 Brake switch signal
B14 D9 Alternator FRsignal
- A16 Alternator control
C6 D13 ECT
- D10 ELD
C5 D15 IAT
C9 - PA
C7 D11 TPS
B16 B10 VSS
C13 D20 Sensor voltage
C12 D22 Sensor ground
C11 D17 MAP
C15 D19 Map sensor voltage
C14 D21 MAP sensor ground
B19 D3 Knock sensor
Wiring Conversion Non OBD to OBD1
there are several changes that must be made to run a 1992-1995 motor in a 1988-1991 car. I find it is best to modify the 1988-1991 harness rather than trying to make the 1992-1995 harness work. The changes are as follows:
1. Change the distributer plugs. This is actually quite straightforeward. There are two plugs. One has seven wires. The other has two. With the seven wire plugs, you will find that there are six thin wires and one thicker one. The thin wires are collectively the same colors on the 1988-1991 harness as on the 1992-1995 harness. Stick the pins on the 1988-1991 harness into the spots where like colored wires went on the 1992-1995 harness. In other words, stick the orange wire on the 1988-1991 harness where the orange wire went on the 1992-1995 harness. The exception is the fatter wire for the ignitor signal. This wire is white on the 1988-1991 harness and yellow/green on the 1992-1995 harness. Stick the thicker white wire on the 1988-1991 harness to the spot occupied by the yellow/green wire on the 1992-1995 harness. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add wires for the CYP sensor. The other plug has a thick black/yellow wire and a thin blue wire on both harnesses. Simply stick the wires in the same spots or connect like colors.
2. Change and relocate the thermoswitch plug. The thermoswitch is located on the back of the block by the oil pressure sending unit on 1988-1991 engines. It has a yellow/green and a black wire connected to it. On 1992-1995 engines, it is located on the thermostat housing. And the plug has a green and black wire connected to it. You must remove the plug on the 1988-1991 harness and solder on the corresponding plug on the 1992-1995 harness. When you cut this plug from the 1992-1995 harness, make sure to leave enough wire connected to it so that it will reach to the thermostat housing.
3. Change injector plugs and eliminate the resistor. This is fairly straightforeward if you have an HF/
SI. Simply connect like colors on the ECU side of the plug. On the hot side, it may actually be easier if you use the complete 1992-1995 wire all the way back to the 8-wire connector. Then you can connect the 8-wire connector where the injector resistor was. This saves time and soldering. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add the 8-wire connector to the wire going to the hot side of the injectors and add two wires from the extra injectors to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.
4. Reroute the wires coming over the intake manifold. On 1988-1991 HF and SI models, there are a couple of wires (I forget which) coming up and over the intake manifold from around the distributer. Although this is not absolutely necessary, they should be rerouted under the manifold for a clean, stock appearance. This also allows you to use the 1992-1995 injector wire holder. I should note that this is not necessary with a DPFI model. This is the one case where a DX is actually easier!
5. Add the four wire oxygen sensor. This is not nearly as hard as it may seem. Use the original, shielded sensor lead on the 1988-1991 harness for the sensor output. Connect the sensor ground to the green/white wire that forms the sensor ground for the TPS, IAT, and CTS on the 1988-1991 harness. Connect the heater hot to the 8-wire connector on the hot side of the injector. And run a separate wire for the heater control to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.
6. Add wires for the VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch, and knock sensor. This is only necessary with a B16A. If you are swapping in a B18A/B18B, none of this is necessary. With a D16Z6, the knock sensor is not necessary. And with the B18C, you will need to add one more wire for the IAB. In any case, this is no different from the changes required for a 1988-1991 B16A. Just remember to ground the black lead on the VTEC pressure switch, use a shielded wire for the knock sensor, and ground the shield.
7. Relocate the wires to the MAP sensor and purge
valve. The MAP sensor plug may actually reach the throttle body mounted MAP sensor on the 1992-1995 engine. But you may want to extend it so that you can neatly mount the wire to the firewall. If you extend it, you may want to use the 1992-1995 gray plug for a neater, more stock look. For the purge valve, you will need to extend the wires to valve on the driver's side of the intake manifold. If you have an SI, you will need to run a hot (in start/run) wire to the valve. Connect this wire to the yellow/black wire on the plug for the solenoid. Connect the other wire to the existing lead to the ECU. This is not a problem with DPFI or HF models, as they already have a hot wire going to the solenoid (The ECU grounds it rather than sending power to it).
8. Depending on the model Civic/CRX you have and the engine you swap in, you may need to extend or shorten a few wires (like the TPS, IACV, etc.) in order to make the harness fit better. If you must lengthen wires, it is easier if you just cut the plug from the 1992-1995 harness with the length of wire you need. You will then only need to make one solder per wire. It will also look neater. Of course, the 1988-1991 plugs WILL work for any of the other plugs which I did not specifically say must be changed.
this was not written by me its "Storminmatt" from another forum....
this is from the Hasport web site
Wiring Conversion Non OBD to OBD1
non-OBD OBD 1 Terminal description
A1 A1 #1 injector
A3 A3 #2 injector
A5 A5 #3 injector
A7 A2 #4 injector
A13 A25 IGN power 1 for ECU
A15 B1 IGN power 2 for ECU
A2 A23 Power ground 1 for ECU
A4 A24 Power Ground 2 for ECU
A16 A26 Logic Ground 1 for ECU
A18 B2 Logic ground 2 for ECU
A6 A20 EVAP Purge control solenoid valve
- - Fuel tank pressure sensor
A8 A4 VTEC solenoid
A10 - Fuel pressure solenoid vlave
A12 A7 Fuel pump relay
A14 - Fuel pump relay
B6 A13 Malfunction indicator lamp
B15 A21 Igniter
B17 - Igniter
A11 A9 IACV (EACV)
C16 D14 Primary O2 signal
- A6 Primary HO2 heater control
C8 - Secondary O2 signal
- - Secondary HO2 heater control
- A17 IAB (GSR)
B4 A12 Radiator fan control
- - Tandem valve control solenoid
- - CKF P
- - CKF G
B10 B15 CKP P
B12 B16 CKP G
C3 B13 TDC P
C4 B14 TDC G
C1 B11 CYP P
C2 B12 CYP G
B3 A15 A/C clutch relay
B8 B5 A/C switch
B13 B9 Starter switch signal
B20 D4 Service check signal (Ignition timing adjusting connector)
- - K-Line
B1 D1 DTC memory voltage
B5 D6 VTEC oil pressure
- B8 Power steering pressure switch
C10 D2 Brake switch signal
B14 D9 Alternator FRsignal
- A16 Alternator control
C6 D13 ECT
- D10 ELD
C5 D15 IAT
C9 - PA
C7 D11 TPS
B16 B10 VSS
C13 D20 Sensor voltage
C12 D22 Sensor ground
C11 D17 MAP
C15 D19 Map sensor voltage
C14 D21 MAP sensor ground
B19 D3 Knock sensor
Wiring Conversion Non OBD to OBD1
-
Fulldragcrx
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2002 3:43 pm
- Location: Columbia, maryland
Locashracing.com sells the computer adapter harness for the crx.....i dont have any pics but it a pretty simple until you get to the computer...and that seems simple also but its going to be time consuming if you do it yourself.....
the only part of that list, that was not clear to me was the injector wiring...all the in jectors need is a 12v source...get the connector from an obd1 car and you will see that 12v is distributed to every wire in that connector and it is also the source to the 12v to the 4 wire O2 sensor......you just un pin the wires in the green connector to the resitor box on the crx and repin them into the obd1 gray connector that distrbutes the 12v to all the wires.....
the only part of that list, that was not clear to me was the injector wiring...all the in jectors need is a 12v source...get the connector from an obd1 car and you will see that 12v is distributed to every wire in that connector and it is also the source to the 12v to the 4 wire O2 sensor......you just un pin the wires in the green connector to the resitor box on the crx and repin them into the obd1 gray connector that distrbutes the 12v to all the wires.....
#3 injectors
Removing the injector resistor box isn't necessary. You can keep your injectors and resistor box in place.
Wiring Guru's OBD0 to OBD1 conversion hasport
Ok this is a really good question...
I have a 91 Honda CRX putting in a B16A OBD0 engine that has been upgraded to OBD1 P28 ecu with hondata etc....
I have a donor connectors from obd0 ecu and obd1 harness.
So far wired up the adapter harness no real problems.....
Hasports wiring off there web site lists
-Alternator FR signal on OBD0 as B14 to OBD1 D9
and alternator control as blank
Is this a error or for some reason
If you look up the wiring OBD0
B5 is alternaotr FR signal
B14 is alternator control
OBD1
D9 is alternator FR signal
A16 is alternator control
Only thing is that the 94 Honda Civic OBD1 P28 has ELD electronic Load detector
And the OBD1 ecu has a input from this to D10
Has anyone done this conversion
I have a 91 Honda CRX putting in a B16A OBD0 engine that has been upgraded to OBD1 P28 ecu with hondata etc....
I have a donor connectors from obd0 ecu and obd1 harness.
So far wired up the adapter harness no real problems.....
Hasports wiring off there web site lists
-Alternator FR signal on OBD0 as B14 to OBD1 D9
and alternator control as blank
Is this a error or for some reason
If you look up the wiring OBD0
B5 is alternaotr FR signal
B14 is alternator control
OBD1
D9 is alternator FR signal
A16 is alternator control
Only thing is that the 94 Honda Civic OBD1 P28 has ELD electronic Load detector
And the OBD1 ecu has a input from this to D10
Has anyone done this conversion