Idling & Driveabililty problems...got questions need answers

[integraX]

So here is my issue, My rsx will start right up but will either die or have idle issues & run super rich while cold. when it finally warms up it runs fine till about 185-200 deg, then it will die every time I come to a stop. While on the freeway or 40mph+ the ECT temps will stick around 145-150 deg so im assuming the ecu always thinks the car is cold. Ive installed a karcepts IACV block off plate and shut off the function in kpro as well manually adjusted the throttle plate stop till I got around 900-1000 rpm. disabling the ignition retard when the engine is cold help the issue? or should I adjust the water temperature compensation tables. I say that because if I floor it on the freeway and the temp is at 145-150 my aftermarket wideband gauge will hit 10:1 and blink at me.

Setup:

2003 RSX Type-S with stock internals
Fuel setup (return style, walbro 255,ID 1000cc, skunk2 composit rail, & FPR)
NGK8's iridiums
Intake (JDM IM, Hondata IM gasket,P2R gasket & TB spacer plate, Omni 2.5bar map, Karcepts IACV plate, K-tuned TPS, OEM TB)
Cooling (Mishimoto Perf radiator & 1.3bar cap, mishimoto coolant overflow, k-tuned swivel thermostat set @ 180deg & fan switch)
Exhaust (CRSX SS header, Thermal R&D 3inch exhaust system)
Rotrex C30-94 supercharger & Mishimoto FMIC
Exedy stage-1 clutch & lightened flywheel
Kpro (obviously) :P
Power steering delete

any help would be greatly appreciated, until I get it professionally tuned for power I would just like to get it driveable around town without it dying while too warm or while too cold as well as super rich, like gag people behind me rich

[Hondata]

Why have you removed the idle control?

If the engine is running at 145-150 degrees there is a problem with the cooling system you need to fix.

[integraX]

Why have you removed the idle control?

If the engine is running at 145-150 degrees there is a problem with the cooling system you need to fix.

because I was having idle issues that I couldnt seem to correct in kpro. I had read up on people who removed theirs and corrected some issues they had before. I still have the IACV, I suppose I could reinstall it.

The only difference in my cooling system is the radiator and my thermostat (rated @ 180 deg), so im not sure how I could correct anything aside from removing the Mishimoto radiator and re-installing an OEM one. I have colder plugs and the 1000cc injectors are dumping more fuel since my tune was set for 650cc injectors. so I dont know if that could be contributing to the colder temps while at freeway speeds.

remember my rsx has troubles once it gets upto a certain temp as well. I read the Kpro help info and see that the ECU will adjust timing & fuel levels based on ECT I get that, so would it be safe to assume if I adjust the closed loop AFR & timing when its under normal op temp and while its above, could that stabilize the engine so that every time I come to a stop it doesnt die? example: I was in line for a carshow and the ECT temps were at 190 The car started acting up alittle and as it got hotter all the way upto lets say 205deg everytime I would shift into 1st roll forward under light throttle then shift to neutral and let off the gas it would just die unless I feathered the throttle.

[Hondata]

I don't see any way how the idle will be acceptable without the idle control valve. It is fairly common for the rotary portion of the valve to gunk up and it is fairly easy to clean it out.

You also need stable temperature control. The stock setup does work - thousands of modified vehicles are using it, so I'd suggest returning the coolant thermostat control to stock until the other issues are sorted out.

If injectors are changed without a re-tune then you'd expect the AF to be incorrect. A re-tune would be advised.

[integraX]

I don't see any way how the idle will be acceptable without the idle control valve. It is fairly common for the rotary portion of the valve to gunk up and it is fairly easy to clean it out.

The TB has a TB plate adjuster, I adjusted it till the car ran at 900-1000 rpm. Ive also contacted Karcepts and they assured methat I can get in town driveability with the block off plate. For that matter why can we shut off the IACV in the 1st place? or is it just for race vehicles? Karcepts IACV block off plate, see link:http://www.karcepts.com/shop/product.php?id_product=40
You also need stable temperature control. The stock setup does work - thousands of modified vehicles are using it, so I'd suggest returning the coolant thermostat control to stock until the other issues are sorted out.

If you are talking the actual physical thermostat, the K-tuned version I was of the understanding that it opens at the same temp as the OEM one. Its just the housing thats different, the coolant output from the engine block to the radiator can spin 360 deg, see link: http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Swivel- ... p_154.html I havent adjusted the cooling system parameters in Kpro with the exception of disabling the ignition retard during warm up.
If injectors are changed without a re-tune then you'd expect the AF to be incorrect. A re-tune would be advised.

I totally get you there. I have been using the function in Kpro where it tells you how much fuel to remove or add in order to reach a target AFR, to no avail. Basically im just trying to correct some issues so I can at least drive it safely till I can afford a full on re-tune.

Thank you so far for all your help. FYI im not trying to argue or be difficult, im mainly just trying to understand what you are saying and making sure you have all the info I can give you on my issue.

[integraX]

well I put my IACV back in and loaded up the OEM Kal, however I adjusted for 1000cc injectors & no emissions checking (no 2nd O2 sensor). Car idles fine now, still has alittle surge but F-it just so long as when it starts up it doesnt run like crap and doesnt die when I come to a stop. Besides it idles around 900rpm 90% of the time so whatever, it just kicks up everyonce in a while for some reason)

Now all I have to do is figure out how to get it to not die whenever I come to a stop when it gets around 190+ deg. And I need to adjust the ECT fuel compensation tables so it does run so rich when its cold. which it stays at.

[integraX]

Well Hondata, turns out the reason my ECT was so low is cause the aftermarket thermostat was supposed to come with a c-clip that I didnt notice so it had flipped sideways creating a constant open point. I picked up a c-clip from a local hardware store and tested the Thermostat (it opens @ 180deg)

I thought that fixed it but it still runs super cool. not sure why. regular anti-freeze (no additives), 180deg thermostat(tested to confirm it works as designed) and a mishimoto Aluminum aftermarket radiator. So I would imagine the vehicle should warm up and function within specs. Unless the c-clip came loose. Dont see how though.

[Spunkster]

Replace the thermostate with a brand new OEM one.

[integraX]

Replace the thermostate with a brand new OEM one.

as much as I would love to it wont work that way since the OEM thermostat is not standalone but built into the coolant exit neck. I need the adjustability of the K-tuned coolant neck because I am using a Rotrex S/C and the inlet piping rubs on the lower coolant hose if I use the OEM coolant neck coming off the block

[integraX]

Got another question. kinda related.

So when im driving at low speed & low throttle the car surges or moves like im a new M.Trans driver (which I am not)

is that a timing issue? like the cams rotating too far during low speed/throttle position....or is it a fuel cutoff setting.

I need to change the voltage dead times for my injectors...not sure if that will fix the problem though.


suggestions?

[Spunkster]

Change the dead time first so you are not chasing multiple issues at the same time.

[integraX]

Change the dead time first so you are not chasing multiple issues at the same time.

ok, dead times changed. much better idle and the wierd ticking noise quieted down considerably. part throttle/low speed driving is smoother.

now I just have an issue with fuel overrun cutoff. I disabled it but may re-enable it because when I shift its like I kept my foot on the throttle. Still alittle jerky at times but I think its just the throttle being very sensitive. Im starting to get the hang of this kmanager program.

My goal is just to make it safe for the engine for around town and freeway driving so long as I dont get on it. So far no k-counts so im good there. I plan on getting it dyno tuned by a professional just to let anyone know before you suggest it. Again im just trying to make it more stable.

I datalogged the ECT's and it runs 'warmer' than before but still stays cool when driving around. It stays around 10deg warmer than before so instead of 140's its upper 150's. OEM replacement thermostats are set to open at 160deg so I guess im alright for now.

thanks spunkster for the help so far.

[Hondata]

The engine should not run below 178 degrees. You need to fix this before further tuning.

[integraX]

The engine should not run below 178 degrees. You need to fix this before further tuning.

even though I didnt know the specific temp I agree that it shouldnt run too cold. Though im not sure what the issue would be. The only changes to the cooling system is the radiator, fan switch, & thermostat housing (w/stant 180deg thermostat)

the thermostat has been tested and it opens @ 180deg like its supposed to. I suppose if the c-clip isnt holding it down enough coolant could be blowing past it(though I dont see why). I will have to recheck. or maybe pick up a different thermostat that isnt so short (not sure that matters)

could a faulty ECT sensor be causing the issue? where is working but no longer reading the info correctly anymore. car has 60k miles on it, and im not sure the lifespan of those sensors.

[integraX]

ok so I re-enabled the fuel overrun cutoff because every time I shifted the rpms would stay up like I kept my foot on the gas.

Regarding the ECT issue, the E-clip I purchased for the aftermarket thermostat didnt hold (think it was too small) so the thermostat popped out and rotated, damn Im glad the e-clip didnt slide into the water pump slot. So I picked up a 2.25in C-clip and snapped it into place (much better hold). Will test tonight to see if that corrected the low ECT issue.

however I do have another question. While going thru the Kmanager parameters I saw a tab "Boost Control Paramenters" now since my RSX is supercharged and does not have a wastegate or anyother type of boost limiting equipment I would assume I can disable this?

Thanks for everyones help so far.