built motor sputters
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portmaster
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Fri May 04, 2012 5:55 pm
built motor sputters
Please help
2008 sI FG2
Built motor
Blueprint h beam rods
CP flat top pistons
ARP head studs
Cometic head gasket
ACL bearings
Stage 2 brian crower NA cams
Dual spring valve springs
Over sized valves .5mm over
Sidewinder manifold
T70 turbo
ID1000cc injectors
Ok so i loaded the hondata turbo 650cc base map
I noticed huge knocks on cylinder 2
I added fuel and pulled timing
still knocks
AFR is at 14
Car sputters in load columns 3 to 6 but if i go get into the upper columns it stops knocking and pulls hard
I pulled more timing and it still knocks
It sputters when i am trying to cruise and when it sputters cylinder 2 knocks sky rocket
I moved the plugs and coil around and the issue remains in cylinder 2
Any suggestions?
Thanks
2008 sI FG2
Built motor
Blueprint h beam rods
CP flat top pistons
ARP head studs
Cometic head gasket
ACL bearings
Stage 2 brian crower NA cams
Dual spring valve springs
Over sized valves .5mm over
Sidewinder manifold
T70 turbo
ID1000cc injectors
Ok so i loaded the hondata turbo 650cc base map
I noticed huge knocks on cylinder 2
I added fuel and pulled timing
still knocks
AFR is at 14
Car sputters in load columns 3 to 6 but if i go get into the upper columns it stops knocking and pulls hard
I pulled more timing and it still knocks
It sputters when i am trying to cruise and when it sputters cylinder 2 knocks sky rocket
I moved the plugs and coil around and the issue remains in cylinder 2
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Re: built motor sputters
It probably is valve train noise, not knock. If you have pulled a lot of timing that could cause the hesitation. Post the calibration/datalog for more analysis.
Hondata
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portmaster
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Fri May 04, 2012 5:55 pm
Re: built motor sputters
Ok, so i changed my can angle to 0 degrees on high and low and that took all my knocks away.
I locked my cams to 15 degrees and the knock and hesitation came back.
In my log my knock level comes up to 70% and it retards my timing 18 degrees
And it is only at 3000 and 3500rpm
before and after 3000 and 3500rpm the car runs great as long as i am accelerating i never see a single knock
If i try to cruise in that range knock knock knock
I do have some idle issues. I only have -16psi at idle.
Reading from 4 bar map sensor
I set my injector dead times to the 43psi setting and that helped my idle
But it will idle normal at 900rpm with 14.9 AFR then S.TRIM starts pulling fuel for some reason then the car almost stalls at 17 afr then S.TRIM jumps up to 15% adding fuel then levels out idles fine for about 2 minutes then does it again
I locked my cams to 15 degrees and the knock and hesitation came back.
In my log my knock level comes up to 70% and it retards my timing 18 degrees
And it is only at 3000 and 3500rpm
before and after 3000 and 3500rpm the car runs great as long as i am accelerating i never see a single knock
If i try to cruise in that range knock knock knock
I do have some idle issues. I only have -16psi at idle.
Reading from 4 bar map sensor
I set my injector dead times to the 43psi setting and that helped my idle
But it will idle normal at 900rpm with 14.9 AFR then S.TRIM starts pulling fuel for some reason then the car almost stalls at 17 afr then S.TRIM jumps up to 15% adding fuel then levels out idles fine for about 2 minutes then does it again
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portmaster
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Fri May 04, 2012 5:55 pm
Re: built motor sputters
I will post a datalog when i get home. Thank youHondata wrote:It probably is valve train noise, not knock. If you have pulled a lot of timing that could cause the hesitation. Post the calibration/datalog for more analysis.
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portmaster
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Fri May 04, 2012 5:55 pm
Re: built motor sputters
Attached cal and datalogHondata wrote:It probably is valve train noise, not knock. If you have pulled a lot of timing that could cause the hesitation. Post the calibration/datalog for more analysis.
The idle is at the end of the log file Calibration
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: built motor sputters
I would check the valve clearance (some people check between the cam and follower rather at the valve stem) and then check the cam indexing using the arrows on the sensor plates at cam cap #5 (transmission end of the engine).
It it only happens in VTEC and get worse when hot then I would suspect valve/valve or valve/piston contact.
Otherwise limit the short term fuel trim to +-10% and reduce the knock retard values, both so that you can get some part throttle tuning done. With futher tuning it may improve.
Bottom line is that if the cams jerk the cam train around there is only so much you can do.
It it only happens in VTEC and get worse when hot then I would suspect valve/valve or valve/piston contact.
Otherwise limit the short term fuel trim to +-10% and reduce the knock retard values, both so that you can get some part throttle tuning done. With futher tuning it may improve.
Bottom line is that if the cams jerk the cam train around there is only so much you can do.
Hondata
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portmaster
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Fri May 04, 2012 5:55 pm
Re: built motor sputters
Hondata wrote:I would check the valve clearance (some people check between the cam and follower rather at the valve stem) and then check the cam indexing using the arrows on the sensor plates at cam cap #5 (transmission end of the engine).
It it only happens in VTEC and get worse when hot then I would suspect valve/valve or valve/piston contact.
Otherwise limit the short term fuel trim to +-10% and reduce the knock retard values, both so that you can get some part throttle tuning done. With futher tuning it may improve.
Bottom line is that if the cams jerk the cam train around there is only so much you can do.
Just fyi car pulls amazingly well in vtec and i have very few knocks at WOT
Some pulls i don't have any knocks at WOT
I set my fuel trims to 0 and 0 and the idles perfectly fine completely steady
would this be an indication of a bad factory o2 sensor?
how does the ecu determine when to use and or calculate fuel trims?
Your help is greatly appreciated :)
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portmaster
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Fri May 04, 2012 5:55 pm
Re: built motor sputters
Anyone able to answer my question/s?
Thanks
Thanks
Re: built motor sputters
I don't understand the question.
Would "what" be an indication of a bad 02 sensor?
Would "what" be an indication of a bad 02 sensor?
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portmaster
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Fri May 04, 2012 5:55 pm
Re: built motor sputters
random fuel trims at idle from one extreme to another ? From -10% to +20% S.TRIM for no reason... AFR is steady at 14.9:1 then it starts pulling fuel... goes too lean (almost stalls!).. then adds fuel to get it back. Then idles for a minute or two then pulls fuel again....
Re: built motor sputters
How long is the down pipe from the turbo? How far from the turbo is the 02 sensor?
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portmaster
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Fri May 04, 2012 5:55 pm
Re: built motor sputters
The primary o2 sensor is 32 inches from the turbo with a combination of two 90 degrees bends before it. 90 degrees off the turbo then another 90 degree to point down to the ground total of 32 inches.
I replaced the o2 sensor and it seems to have resolved the issue. Before I replaced the o2 sensor I did change the minimum fuel trim to -10% and that helped a lot.
I replaced the o2 sensor and it seems to have resolved the issue. Before I replaced the o2 sensor I did change the minimum fuel trim to -10% and that helped a lot.