2002 RSX Type S
Hondata K-Pro # 102
Very recently updated for onboard data logging
K-Manager V1.4.0.0
I immediately after getting my ecu back from the upgrade, I had some idling issues but figured it was a coincidence and cleaned the idle valve. The idle still jumps up to 1500 now and again.
Friday I was on the racetrack and within three laps, the engine light flickered an the car went into limp mode. I did not have my laptop with me to read and clear the code so I unplugged the ecu fuse to clear the limp mode so I could drive home. The car would not start. I had someone drive out to the track with a flatbed and a laptop with K-Manager. K-Manager would not acknowledge it was connected to the ECU, but the car did start. On the drive home the speedometer needle would bounce at lower speeds. The car did miss once and the engine light came back on. I was able to read the code when I got home "Daughterboard Communication Error". I figured that was the problem, but later figured out I probably had that error due to the weak battery from cranking so many times to get it started.
I drove it the next day, hoping for a problem so I can figure out what happened, no luck, with the exception of the bouncing speedo, everything seemed fine. Today the car just died in the middle of the intersection. I plugged in the laptop and again it will not acknowledge a connection with the ECU. I replaced the USB cable from the ECU to the laptop and that did not work.
Other observations: 1st- The ignition at idle is always way lower at than what is called for in K-Pro. All my datalogs show a -1 to 4º timing at idle.
2nd- There are random dips in the timing on every datalog. I can find no reason for the dips and they happen several times every minute.
Car dies and no communication with laptop
Car dies and no communication with laptop
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The bar code on the daughter board is 0500813 The board has Rev. 13d on it.
I replaced the stock PRB intake manifold with a PRC. The PRC is from the Type R and there is almost no difference between the two. After cleaning the idle valve and it did not seem to work, I did try an idle valve from an allegedly working throttle body. That did not work at all, so I put the original back on. The car has less than 40k miles on it.
I replaced the stock PRB intake manifold with a PRC. The PRC is from the Type R and there is almost no difference between the two. After cleaning the idle valve and it did not seem to work, I did try an idle valve from an allegedly working throttle body. That did not work at all, so I put the original back on. The car has less than 40k miles on it.
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The complete list of engine modifications that I did years ago include, Jackson Racing header, metal substrate high flow cat, Borla catback
I have done a proper dyno tune and do make more hp with the high cams at only 3k. Lately it seems to be running rich. I had the fuel values looking really good and now get the fuel adjustment suggestion to take out 10 to 25% in a lot of fields.
I have done a proper dyno tune and do make more hp with the high cams at only 3k. Lately it seems to be running rich. I had the fuel values looking really good and now get the fuel adjustment suggestion to take out 10 to 25% in a lot of fields.
Last edited by Todd on Sun Aug 01, 2010 7:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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You may have an intermittant wiring problem in the car...when the car is running try moving the wiring harness around in as many locations as you can and see if you get the problem
Last edited by Spunkster on Wed Jul 21, 2010 11:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
That sound like good advice. I will start checking the wiring, even if I can not get it to run. I figured some of those other issued may have been a coincidence. The car has run so reliably and it so meticulously maintained.
What do you think if the timing issues? The random dips and idling nowhere close to what is in the program?
What do you think if the timing issues? The random dips and idling nowhere close to what is in the program?
That which you manifest is before you.
It is normal for the ignition at idle to be -1 to 10 degrees. This is 'ignition controlled idle'.
Pull all the engine grounds off, clean then down to bare metal, and replace them. Check you have a transmission ground, engine mount ground and main harness ground (which should be moved to the valve cover).
To fix the ignition dipping, select 'Fix Honda tip in bug' under 'Gear Comp'. However, you should fix the about problem first before worrying too much about the ignition.
Pull all the engine grounds off, clean then down to bare metal, and replace them. Check you have a transmission ground, engine mount ground and main harness ground (which should be moved to the valve cover).
To fix the ignition dipping, select 'Fix Honda tip in bug' under 'Gear Comp'. However, you should fix the about problem first before worrying too much about the ignition.
Hondata
I figured the ECU was not getting power so I checked Plug A Pin 2 and 3 for voltage. That was good. Next I checked pin 4 and 5 for ground. Eureka, bad ground. A short search later, found the loose bolt and all appears good with the world.
Great advice gang, thank you.
Great advice gang, thank you.
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[quote="Hondata"]... To fix the ignition dipping, select 'Fix Honda tip in bug' under 'Gear Comp'. However, you should fix the about problem first before worrying too much about the ignition.[/quote]
Most of my datalogs already look like the "Corrected tip in retard behaviour". My question is, why are the big dips there in the first place. It will happen every 1 to 5 seconds while cruising, no throttle movement, no rpm change.
Most of my datalogs already look like the "Corrected tip in retard behaviour". My question is, why are the big dips there in the first place. It will happen every 1 to 5 seconds while cruising, no throttle movement, no rpm change.
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Here is a datalog with the 'Fix Honda tip in bug' under 'Gear Comp' button checked. You can see it everywhere. While holding the throttle steady, the ignition dips from 45 to 20 every few seconds. Is this normal? If so, why?
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I have it in open loop. I am still tweaking the fuel.
I have an 8 gauge ground wire that goes from the battery to the throttle body, to the intake manifold (same bolt where the main ecu is grounded. to the passenger side motor mount, to the valve cover, to the fire wall near the ecu. http://www.davincitandems.com/rsx/ground.html
I will check the other grounds.
I have an 8 gauge ground wire that goes from the battery to the throttle body, to the intake manifold (same bolt where the main ecu is grounded. to the passenger side motor mount, to the valve cover, to the fire wall near the ecu. http://www.davincitandems.com/rsx/ground.html
I will check the other grounds.
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Do not add any extra grounds over the factory grounds - otherwise you are creating ground loops. The only extra ground which is useful is extending the timing cover engine mount ground to the manifold ground.
Wire do no ground through bolts. The ground points need to removed and the contact point between the wire and chassis/engine cleaned down to bare metal. See http://www.hondata.com/techk20swapgrounds.html
Wire do no ground through bolts. The ground points need to removed and the contact point between the wire and chassis/engine cleaned down to bare metal. See http://www.hondata.com/techk20swapgrounds.html
Hondata
I checked the main grounds and found the battery to transmission attachment bolt semi-stripped. I had my transmission out last year and the mechanic used an impact for EVERYTHING. I made a new and more robust stainless steel ground bracket that I put under the 12mm nut to the transmission bracket (see attached photo). I datalogged my drive to work and it does seem there are fewer random ignition dips, but they are not gone.
After receiving the post above, I removed the extra ground wires and ran only one from the intake manifold to left side of the block. I found an empty 8mm spot right on the left side of the block (see attached photo). This seemed like a more reliable ground spot than the valve cover. I recorded my drive home it it looks about the same as above. Does this seem normal now, or do I still have too many random ignition drops? Look at about 3:07 minutes into the datalog.
Once again, thank you for all the help.
After receiving the post above, I removed the extra ground wires and ran only one from the intake manifold to left side of the block. I found an empty 8mm spot right on the left side of the block (see attached photo). This seemed like a more reliable ground spot than the valve cover. I recorded my drive home it it looks about the same as above. Does this seem normal now, or do I still have too many random ignition drops? Look at about 3:07 minutes into the datalog.
Once again, thank you for all the help.
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