Having someone check my calibration (timing) is about the last possible thing that could be causing heat problems and preventing the car from cooling down.
My calibration and a datalog are attached.
I am pretty sure my AFR's are fine, and the timing hasn't been touched from the basemap in the low load columns.
*Background - Coolant temps are too high. Replaced OEM radiator with Mishimoto full width and dual Mishimoto slim fans. Coolant temps did not drop any.
Replaced thermostat with 170*F and used 75% water, 25% Honda Blue coolant, and then water wetter on top of that. Bled system properly.
When 1 fan was installed, temp reached 220 when stuck in traffic (with AC). With both fans running from 180*F and on, temp still reaches 204*F in town within 20 mins. When on interstate, temps will reach up to 215.
Turning the heater on drops the temp down to the mid 180's but in Kansas during the summer time, this isn't feasible.
Car is JRSC with LHT intercooler. 9 psi with intercooler.
Too much timing in map to cause heat problems?
Too much timing in map to cause heat problems?
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V-Spec race development
- Posts: 192
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 12:41 am
Radiator not coming on????V-Spec race development wrote:I think your radiator is not coming on. Look under the tab " protection" on the bottom, it's the radiator fan control. Make the maximum vehicle speed to like 30mph. You have it on at 120mph. I hope that helps.
I kept the max speed that high because the temp stayed a little lower when the max mph was higher. If I lowered it to close to the factory fan speed setting, the temp would increase at an even faster rate.
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V-Spec race development
- Posts: 192
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 12:41 am
What engine is this? A JRSC on what?
I looked at your calibration and data log and I have a couple of comments.
1 - This probably doesn't have anything to do with your over heating problem but take a look at your Fuel Compensation settings. It looks like you have the stock settings for air temp compensation which is intended for an N/A setup. The medium and high load tables cut fuel at 98 - 188 degrees on up. The thinking is that in an N/A setup air density is thinner when temps go up so less fuel is required but in a supercharger setup under medium to high load temps go up typically because of compressing air and therefore air density is higher requiring MORE fuel which also will help cool the air/fuel mixture. I see in your data log that fuel is being cut by 2% at 7.7psi.
2 - I have often heard that low temp thermostats are not recommended for supercharger setups. I just put a stock t-stat back into my D16.
3 - Here are some facts from the FSM about the cooling system in a D16 that may help you with your troubleshooting.
a - A stock t-stat starts opening between 169-176 degrees and is fully open at 194 degrees.
b - The radiator fan is normally controlled by the fan switch located in the t-stat housing which activates the fan at 196-203 degrees. It turns off when the temps lower by 5-15 degrees. I'm not completely certain but I believe a stock ECU will also turn on the fan AS A FAILSAFE MEASURE. I don't know what temp will activate it.
c - Hondata S300 will allow you to override the fan switch. At a certain vehicle speed, the fan no longer provides more air flow through the radiator. Again, I don't know the precise speed but I believe that it is around 30-40mph. Yours settings in the Protection tab to override the fan switch are somewhat extreme. Your fan will be on all the time as soon as the coolant in the engine hits 179 degrees.
Other thoughts:
Make sure all the air is bled out of the system which means making sure that your rad cap is good.
Maybe the ECT sensor is off? Try replacing that.
Check your coolant level often and top it off.
Hope this helps.
I looked at your calibration and data log and I have a couple of comments.
1 - This probably doesn't have anything to do with your over heating problem but take a look at your Fuel Compensation settings. It looks like you have the stock settings for air temp compensation which is intended for an N/A setup. The medium and high load tables cut fuel at 98 - 188 degrees on up. The thinking is that in an N/A setup air density is thinner when temps go up so less fuel is required but in a supercharger setup under medium to high load temps go up typically because of compressing air and therefore air density is higher requiring MORE fuel which also will help cool the air/fuel mixture. I see in your data log that fuel is being cut by 2% at 7.7psi.
2 - I have often heard that low temp thermostats are not recommended for supercharger setups. I just put a stock t-stat back into my D16.
3 - Here are some facts from the FSM about the cooling system in a D16 that may help you with your troubleshooting.
a - A stock t-stat starts opening between 169-176 degrees and is fully open at 194 degrees.
b - The radiator fan is normally controlled by the fan switch located in the t-stat housing which activates the fan at 196-203 degrees. It turns off when the temps lower by 5-15 degrees. I'm not completely certain but I believe a stock ECU will also turn on the fan AS A FAILSAFE MEASURE. I don't know what temp will activate it.
c - Hondata S300 will allow you to override the fan switch. At a certain vehicle speed, the fan no longer provides more air flow through the radiator. Again, I don't know the precise speed but I believe that it is around 30-40mph. Yours settings in the Protection tab to override the fan switch are somewhat extreme. Your fan will be on all the time as soon as the coolant in the engine hits 179 degrees.
Other thoughts:
Make sure all the air is bled out of the system which means making sure that your rad cap is good.
Maybe the ECT sensor is off? Try replacing that.
Check your coolant level often and top it off.
Hope this helps.
Re: Too much timing in map to cause heat problems?
I wanted to provide some closure to this old thread as I forgot to do so close to a year ago.
As it turns out, the LHT intercooler was the root of all evil. I had the recommended race heat exchanger and unfortunately, that doubled as a radiator block off plate. The caR still has AC installed, so between the heat exchanger and AC condenser, there wasn't much air flow reaching the radiator. Even making a splitter didn't help. The coolant temps reached 260* on track in less than 8 minutes. I took the heat exchanger off and instantly the coolant temps dropped 25* while cruising, and stayed within an acceptable level while on track.
Although my intake temps do get above what the stock sensor can read, I am able to tune it out using the compenstation tables to prevent any damage without the use of the intercooler. I am back to just the MVM stepper pulley running about 7-7.5 psi. Water injection will soon help cool the intake charge and remove some of the heat from the blower, once I get a chance to install it.
My timing was and still is very conservative due to only being able to get 91 octane here in Topeka, KS. That did not contribute at all to the symptoms and no other mechanical or electrical problems existed.
As it turns out, the LHT intercooler was the root of all evil. I had the recommended race heat exchanger and unfortunately, that doubled as a radiator block off plate. The caR still has AC installed, so between the heat exchanger and AC condenser, there wasn't much air flow reaching the radiator. Even making a splitter didn't help. The coolant temps reached 260* on track in less than 8 minutes. I took the heat exchanger off and instantly the coolant temps dropped 25* while cruising, and stayed within an acceptable level while on track.
Although my intake temps do get above what the stock sensor can read, I am able to tune it out using the compenstation tables to prevent any damage without the use of the intercooler. I am back to just the MVM stepper pulley running about 7-7.5 psi. Water injection will soon help cool the intake charge and remove some of the heat from the blower, once I get a chance to install it.
My timing was and still is very conservative due to only being able to get 91 octane here in Topeka, KS. That did not contribute at all to the symptoms and no other mechanical or electrical problems existed.