B16a2 Setup, Map+Datalog
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Kai-DelSol
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:44 am
- Location: Germany
B16a2 Setup, Map+Datalog
Hi
Can someone with expirience look at the Datalog and the map ?
The car wont rev over 7200 but dont missfires. It fells like theres no more Power over 7200.
I have closed the IAC Valve because it was broken
Setup
- B16a2
- S300
- Injector dynamics 1000cc
- Walbro 255hp
- Cheap E-Bay T3/T4 50 Trim Turbo (but it holds, had no problems since 2008)
- Ramhorn Manifold
- 3" Exhaust
- Tial 38mm Wastegate
- Wiseco Pistons
- Eagle Rods
- Stock Head, Stock Cams, Stock ignition system
- AEM FPR
- 21-22 psi Bost
Can someone with expirience look at the Datalog and the map ?
The car wont rev over 7200 but dont missfires. It fells like theres no more Power over 7200.
I have closed the IAC Valve because it was broken
Setup
- B16a2
- S300
- Injector dynamics 1000cc
- Walbro 255hp
- Cheap E-Bay T3/T4 50 Trim Turbo (but it holds, had no problems since 2008)
- Ramhorn Manifold
- 3" Exhaust
- Tial 38mm Wastegate
- Wiseco Pistons
- Eagle Rods
- Stock Head, Stock Cams, Stock ignition system
- AEM FPR
- 21-22 psi Bost
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Kai-DelSol
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:44 am
- Location: Germany
ok, the revlimit is set to 7650 rpm but at the Gauge it looks like at 7000-7200. mabe i set the Revlimit to 7800...
Next little problem i have is the sparkplugs. I use Accel Plugs with 6-8 range. it looks fine on the top of the plug but the bottom is Black. When i use 8´s NGK the top is near White but the Bottom is also Black. are the 8´s too cold ? the AFR is under 12:1 and sometimes under 11:1 (as shown in the datalog).
The NGK´s are non Resistor Plugs and the Accel are Resistor types.
The question is, how lean can i go. Do i get more power when i go to 12.5:1
Its all at 100 Oct Gas.
sry for my bad English
Next little problem i have is the sparkplugs. I use Accel Plugs with 6-8 range. it looks fine on the top of the plug but the bottom is Black. When i use 8´s NGK the top is near White but the Bottom is also Black. are the 8´s too cold ? the AFR is under 12:1 and sometimes under 11:1 (as shown in the datalog).
The NGK´s are non Resistor Plugs and the Accel are Resistor types.
The question is, how lean can i go. Do i get more power when i go to 12.5:1
Its all at 100 Oct Gas.
sry for my bad English
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Kai-DelSol
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:44 am
- Location: Germany
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Kai-DelSol
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:44 am
- Location: Germany
Here i am again.
This are the Setup and Datalog from the last Weekend on the 1/4 Mile.
The Track was a Old Airfield with Concreed. No preparation on the Track and no Grip up to the 4th Gear...
I Drive with Stock Y21 Tranny and Street tires, no LSD and hit a 12.6 in serval runs...
I run a China T3/T4 Turbo since 2008 and its still Not broken.
Is this Heat shield for the Intake manifold good ? have anyone expirience or some Numbers how much this reduces the Intake Temp ?
This are the Setup and Datalog from the last Weekend on the 1/4 Mile.
The Track was a Old Airfield with Concreed. No preparation on the Track and no Grip up to the 4th Gear...
I Drive with Stock Y21 Tranny and Street tires, no LSD and hit a 12.6 in serval runs...
I run a China T3/T4 Turbo since 2008 and its still Not broken.
Is this Heat shield for the Intake manifold good ? have anyone expirience or some Numbers how much this reduces the Intake Temp ?
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ali hussain
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue May 11, 2010 4:13 am
- Location: bahrain,middle east
hey friend i can help you with the heat shield as hondata provide them,read this
The Heatshield is a replacement intake manifold gasket made from special high temperature plastic, designed to insulate the intake manifold from the cylinder head.
Hondata have developed a special high temperature insulating gasket which replaces the stock intake gasket. This and bypassing several heat sources significantly reduces the transfer of heat from the head to the intake and incoming air giving you up to 5% more power.
Turbocharged cars often use an aluminum intercooler to cool the air compressed by the turbo. The intake manifold is also made of aluminum but because it is heated by the head from combustion and coolant, works in reverse to an intercooler by heating the intake air by as much as 50° C.
Fact: For every 3.3 °C (5° F) rise in intake temperature, air density drops 1%. The hotter the air, the less fuel the computer injects to compensate for reduced oxygen. HondaLogger datalogging software has enabled us to measure intake air temperature under varied driving conditions.
Around town, testing has shown an average drop of around 10 degrees C which is good for around 3 percent power increase. Remember though that 3 percent power increase is difficult to feel. You'd feel a greater change in performance getting rid of that passenger. In certain conditions a 30° C drop has been measured.
The Honda manifold is heated in up to 5 places. From the head, the interior heating takeoff hose, the cold idle valve, the idle control valve and the throttle body heater. The Heatshield gasket kit contains an insulating gasket, and installation instructions. A race version only version with the thermostat bypass blocked is also available."
Remember that if your car makes 180HP, 3% is 5hp. This is equivalent to how much an exhaust will improve your vehicle
i hope that its useful :)
by the way can you help me in determining the psi as how you are saying your boost is 21-22 and when i have sownloaded the calibration in the smanager it shows 5.9 in the cold boost cut and 24.5 in the hot boost cut can you help me in this?
spunkster: as you are one of the hondata team can you help me with the overall fuel trim and cranking fuel trim and throttle tip in trim as i am new to the smanager and i have some difficulties to deal with it so any thing which can help me please i would be really thankfull to you.
The Heatshield is a replacement intake manifold gasket made from special high temperature plastic, designed to insulate the intake manifold from the cylinder head.
Hondata have developed a special high temperature insulating gasket which replaces the stock intake gasket. This and bypassing several heat sources significantly reduces the transfer of heat from the head to the intake and incoming air giving you up to 5% more power.
Turbocharged cars often use an aluminum intercooler to cool the air compressed by the turbo. The intake manifold is also made of aluminum but because it is heated by the head from combustion and coolant, works in reverse to an intercooler by heating the intake air by as much as 50° C.
Fact: For every 3.3 °C (5° F) rise in intake temperature, air density drops 1%. The hotter the air, the less fuel the computer injects to compensate for reduced oxygen. HondaLogger datalogging software has enabled us to measure intake air temperature under varied driving conditions.
Around town, testing has shown an average drop of around 10 degrees C which is good for around 3 percent power increase. Remember though that 3 percent power increase is difficult to feel. You'd feel a greater change in performance getting rid of that passenger. In certain conditions a 30° C drop has been measured.
The Honda manifold is heated in up to 5 places. From the head, the interior heating takeoff hose, the cold idle valve, the idle control valve and the throttle body heater. The Heatshield gasket kit contains an insulating gasket, and installation instructions. A race version only version with the thermostat bypass blocked is also available."
Remember that if your car makes 180HP, 3% is 5hp. This is equivalent to how much an exhaust will improve your vehicle
i hope that its useful :)
by the way can you help me in determining the psi as how you are saying your boost is 21-22 and when i have sownloaded the calibration in the smanager it shows 5.9 in the cold boost cut and 24.5 in the hot boost cut can you help me in this?
spunkster: as you are one of the hondata team can you help me with the overall fuel trim and cranking fuel trim and throttle tip in trim as i am new to the smanager and i have some difficulties to deal with it so any thing which can help me please i would be really thankfull to you.
civic 1993 hatchback with h22 swap
2.5" custom headers
550cc fuel injectors
type-s camshafts
cold air intake
2.5" custom headers
550cc fuel injectors
type-s camshafts
cold air intake
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Kai-DelSol
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:44 am
- Location: Germany
i have set the boostcut to this values to prevent overboost on Cold Engine and Hot Engine.
But Last weekend my Engine is Broken. i have a hole in the Piston near the trottle body.
I must now search for the issue... i think my Turbo is Blown up because all other 3 Pistons are fine, no Knock sparkles on it or anyone like this...
Other reason can be that the Injector on this cylinder are damaged and it becomes Knocking
I must figure this out in the next days
But Last weekend my Engine is Broken. i have a hole in the Piston near the trottle body.
I must now search for the issue... i think my Turbo is Blown up because all other 3 Pistons are fine, no Knock sparkles on it or anyone like this...
Other reason can be that the Injector on this cylinder are damaged and it becomes Knocking
I must figure this out in the next days
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Kai-DelSol
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:44 am
- Location: Germany
a short post in German for lukas.
Letztes Wochenende hatte ich ein Loch im Kolben vom 4. Zylinder.
Irgendetwas ist in den ansaugtrakt gekommen und hat den ersten Zylinder nach der Drosselklappe gesprengt...
Habe heute erstmal die drosselklappe abgescharubt und ein stück Guss gefunden was wie ein stück eienr kleinen Büchse ausschaut...
Ich geh mal davon aus das sich mein lader verabschiedet hat und der rest ist dann eh selbstläufer.
Motor dreht noch einwandfrei ohne kratzen oder harte punkte...
am Wochenende nehm ich den mal komplett auseinander und schau mal was da passiert ist.
Vom datalog her war es ein ladedruckabfall innerhalb von 3 sek. Ist auf der meile beim Burnout passiert.
11,5:1 fahr ich schon lang nicht mehr... ich bin zuletzt 12,2:1 bei 1,55bar ladedruck und 18 Grad Zündung gefahren...
Letztes Wochenende hatte ich ein Loch im Kolben vom 4. Zylinder.
Irgendetwas ist in den ansaugtrakt gekommen und hat den ersten Zylinder nach der Drosselklappe gesprengt...
Habe heute erstmal die drosselklappe abgescharubt und ein stück Guss gefunden was wie ein stück eienr kleinen Büchse ausschaut...
Ich geh mal davon aus das sich mein lader verabschiedet hat und der rest ist dann eh selbstläufer.
Motor dreht noch einwandfrei ohne kratzen oder harte punkte...
am Wochenende nehm ich den mal komplett auseinander und schau mal was da passiert ist.
Vom datalog her war es ein ladedruckabfall innerhalb von 3 sek. Ist auf der meile beim Burnout passiert.
11,5:1 fahr ich schon lang nicht mehr... ich bin zuletzt 12,2:1 bei 1,55bar ladedruck und 18 Grad Zündung gefahren...
hi kai,
ich denke auch, dass dein lader die grätsche gemacht hat.
zum thema gemisch: da scheiden sich die geister, was das beste ist.
mittlerweile geh ich soweit und stimme aufm dyno ab. da hab ich gleich die leistungswerte, denn mit fetterem gemisch sinkt auch die leistung und das beachtlich.
wo kommst du denn her? können uns das auch mal gemeinsam ansehen und bisschen diskutieren ;) auch im hondapower unterwegs?
gruß Lukas
ich denke auch, dass dein lader die grätsche gemacht hat.
zum thema gemisch: da scheiden sich die geister, was das beste ist.
mittlerweile geh ich soweit und stimme aufm dyno ab. da hab ich gleich die leistungswerte, denn mit fetterem gemisch sinkt auch die leistung und das beachtlich.
wo kommst du denn her? können uns das auch mal gemeinsam ansehen und bisschen diskutieren ;) auch im hondapower unterwegs?
gruß Lukas
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Kai-DelSol
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:44 am
- Location: Germany
-
Kai-DelSol
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:44 am
- Location: Germany