that blue wire,right next to the fat black/yellow wire is your tacho signal.
it will come off a pin on the side of the ignitor & feed directly to your tacho.
there will also be a test plug at the shock tower plugs(little plug with 1 blue wire going to it).
i assume this will be on your drivers side shock tower,not exactly sure on your wiring layout,as we drive on the right side of the road,which is the left side....right..... :?
best u can do is just remove your gauge cluster(not very hard at all) & test u have a clean continuous wire from ignitor to cluster plug with a multimeter.
its also cheap enough to buy a multimeter with a tacho test function these days,so u could test your rpms with that .
even if u drop past your local auto elec & ask him if he can do a quick test on your rpm signal via the little test plug at the shock tower,will take a few secs,so he shouldnt charge u much.
if wiring tests ok & test point shows a fault,then your ignitor is playing up or u have some aftermarket ignition components causing grief/interference.
if wiring & test point show ok,then take a hard look at the tacho itself.
wouldnt have a clue either what the person in that post is talking about.....
SOLVED tach drops to 0 after ~4800 rpm car revs past it fine
Thanks! I'll do this when I have more time again. I did look into this lots and when I was taking the last pictures I also took pictures of the distrib and blue wire.
Heres the blue wire I'll test from (can I just use a multimeter without a tach function to measure voltage?)
And heres my distrib
I'll test the blue wire next and then at least I'll know its a fault from the distrib and NOT the ecu I think. I'll look at the wiring schematics to see if the blue wire is not coming from the ecu.
Heres the blue wire I'll test from (can I just use a multimeter without a tach function to measure voltage?)
And heres my distrib
I'll test the blue wire next and then at least I'll know its a fault from the distrib and NOT the ecu I think. I'll look at the wiring schematics to see if the blue wire is not coming from the ecu.
Car was tuned this week, had problems but they were worked out and nothing wrong with the S300! I just want to thank everyone for their help.
to try to contribute something back that might be helpful is how i figured it out, ive seen many other people have the same problem after my hours of searching
I started out by taking it to a mechanic who tried jumping pins all over the place but nothing worked. on the way home i picked up a tach gauge to see what would happen from the blue rpm test wire. I hook it up, the tach works completely but the stock gauge didnt (I remember a thread where someone did this and the same thing happened). Oddly, the stock gauge stopped working after *3000* rpm this time. It became apparent that the stock tach requires more juice (this is why some other people found that it worked better after removing devices using the rpm signal, like bluebox and vafc etc). I finally decided go deeper into it by looking at the wiring schematics. This one confirmed (which some other people having the same problem) that obd2b rpm signal is created by the ECU, not the dist.
I guess that signal only can go so far. I had two options, either rewire the car to work like the earlier year model or try the resistor fix. The obd2b resistor fix is something where you jump the NEP and ICM together with a 1k resistor.
I looked at the dizzy again and sure enough , there were no spare leads on the igniter. however then i looked at this again..
Sure enough, there was 9 wires going in, 8 coming out. The big blue one was going nowhere. Then I remembered that vague thread talking about some guy wiring the igniter lead to the blue test wire. I splice into that blue wire next to the dist, run it to the test wire, started it up. WORKS. So essentially now its like the old system, if you look at the schematic, except that there is now two tach outputs on one wire. but no troubles!
to try to contribute something back that might be helpful is how i figured it out, ive seen many other people have the same problem after my hours of searching
I started out by taking it to a mechanic who tried jumping pins all over the place but nothing worked. on the way home i picked up a tach gauge to see what would happen from the blue rpm test wire. I hook it up, the tach works completely but the stock gauge didnt (I remember a thread where someone did this and the same thing happened). Oddly, the stock gauge stopped working after *3000* rpm this time. It became apparent that the stock tach requires more juice (this is why some other people found that it worked better after removing devices using the rpm signal, like bluebox and vafc etc). I finally decided go deeper into it by looking at the wiring schematics. This one confirmed (which some other people having the same problem) that obd2b rpm signal is created by the ECU, not the dist.
I guess that signal only can go so far. I had two options, either rewire the car to work like the earlier year model or try the resistor fix. The obd2b resistor fix is something where you jump the NEP and ICM together with a 1k resistor.
I looked at the dizzy again and sure enough , there were no spare leads on the igniter. however then i looked at this again..
Sure enough, there was 9 wires going in, 8 coming out. The big blue one was going nowhere. Then I remembered that vague thread talking about some guy wiring the igniter lead to the blue test wire. I splice into that blue wire next to the dist, run it to the test wire, started it up. WORKS. So essentially now its like the old system, if you look at the schematic, except that there is now two tach outputs on one wire. but no troubles!
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integra579
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 11:56 am
- Location: Fall River MA
Re: SOLVED tach drops to 0 after ~4800 rpm car revs past it
ok so i basically have te same problem except a little worse. i bought the wrong disributor for my 2000 integra gsr. i have a B20B non vtec installed and it is running a 97 ls non vtec ecu i believe. i bought a distributor for the 2000 acura integra and now my rpm gauge doesnt work at all. Everything else is running fine and normal i just have that problem. i was thinking would i be able to do the same thing you did here? wire the blue wire that comes out of the distributor to the blue test wire (with a rubber plug) that comes out of the driver side by the firewall? if not in the long run will having the wrong dizzy on the B20 cause problems in the future? i woulld really appreciate the help you guys
Re: SOLVED tach drops to 0 after ~4800 rpm car revs past it
jfelix: Not sure if this applies to you. If you have the b20 swap I wonder if this is already done. Trace the wires maybe?
Re: SOLVED tach drops to 0 after ~4800 rpm car revs past it
yea thats what i was thinking. well on the old distributor the big blue wire coming from the distributor was cut so i guessed maybe that would solve the problem but it didnt work. i guess since the new distributor is for the 2000 integra not the b20 i guess maybe its programed differently? if not is there maybe a fuse for the rpms that i might have fried since the old distributor gave out on me while driving casing the car to shut off which is why i had to buy a new one
Re: SOLVED tach drops to 0 after ~4800 rpm car revs past it
Try opening up the distributor and checking if there is a spare male terminal on the igniter.jfelix wrote:yea thats what i was thinking. well on the old distributor the big blue wire coming from the distributor was cut so i guessed maybe that would solve the problem but it didnt work. i guess since the new distributor is for the 2000 integra not the b20 i guess maybe its programed differently? if not is there maybe a fuse for the rpms that i might have fried since the old distributor gave out on me while driving casing the car to shut off which is why i had to buy a new one