- serial number of your K-Pro 6000+
- KManager version (not 'the latest') 1.3.7
- what sort of vehicle you have K24 hybrid
- what sort of ECU you are using PRB
- anything about the car which has been modified from stock which may affect the ECU K24 block, K24A2 head, RBC IM, turbo, custom header.
I just started using KPro and in fact just started my engine for the first time this weekend: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Al3kadX5GzE
With the engine not running, but ignition on, and with the datalog button pressed, the O2 reading stays at 14.7 all the time, regardless if the sensor is plugged in. Also, "O2 current" is always stuck at "-0.037A." With the O2 heater enabled, I would expect the sensor to get hot, but it does not. I am using the proper primary wideband O2 sensor (99% sure.)
I know KPro is working because other variables, such as TPS, change when I step on the throttle. Oh, and there are no error codes.
The engine's still without coolant so I don't run it long. Does the engine have to be running for the O2 variable to be live, or do I have a defective or miswired sensor? I'm an EE and doublechecked the wiring - it looks fine.
O2 reading static...
O2 reading static...
Mid-engine K24 turbo Locost, http://www.midlana.com
So since nobody else has this problem, it most likely means I have some bonehead setting wrong. Anyone care to point out which one it is?
Mid-engine K24 turbo Locost, http://www.midlana.com
Hard to do... I got the ECU through Church's, who you guys know well, and they said they tested it. I am (as of a couple weeks ago) using the latest code.
I just want to understand, there's nothing in the KPro application that can cause A/F to read static? No modes or settings I may have incorrectly set that could cause it? What does the A/F value read if A/F is way off? It read's 14.7 all the time, whether the engine's running or not.
I agree it's probably a wiring issue, but it's been checked several times, and I'm an EE... which probably makes it worse, lol.
Thanks for the reply.
I just want to understand, there's nothing in the KPro application that can cause A/F to read static? No modes or settings I may have incorrectly set that could cause it? What does the A/F value read if A/F is way off? It read's 14.7 all the time, whether the engine's running or not.
I agree it's probably a wiring issue, but it's been checked several times, and I'm an EE... which probably makes it worse, lol.
Thanks for the reply.
Mid-engine K24 turbo Locost, http://www.midlana.com
here what you need to have buddy.
on the c101 plug of the rsx harness , which you are using if im not mistaken , there is 20 pins. the ones you need and color are as follows:
10- (black/white) A/F heater -
13- (red/yellow) A/F signal -
15- (white) A/F heater +
19- (red) A/F signal +
4 wires from sensor: (no polarity on heater)
black- heater -/+
black- heater -/+
white- signal -
green- signal +
make a harness to run from the o2 sensor to the ecu/wiring area using a female or male whatever is needed plug and wire. if you can , use shielded wire for the signal + wire.
3 of the 4 wires(all but the heater + , so one of the black wires , dont matte which) above you run from the sensor to the c101 plug. simply cut them where they enter the c101 and strip and splice them.
now the fun part , lol. get yourself a 4 wire relay. relays have 2 sides , the coil and the switch , when the coil sees power it activates the switch.
on the coil side of the relay , you need to run a wire from pin 8 of the ecu's E plug (E8) to one wire of the 2 for the coil , the other wire for the coil needs to go to an IGP wire , wire that sees 12v only when key is ON.
now for the other side of the relay , the switch side. one wire of the switch side needs to go to a constant and fused 12v power , and the switch side wire needs to go to the heater + wire leftover from the C101 plug.
on the c101 plug of the rsx harness , which you are using if im not mistaken , there is 20 pins. the ones you need and color are as follows:
10- (black/white) A/F heater -
13- (red/yellow) A/F signal -
15- (white) A/F heater +
19- (red) A/F signal +
4 wires from sensor: (no polarity on heater)
black- heater -/+
black- heater -/+
white- signal -
green- signal +
make a harness to run from the o2 sensor to the ecu/wiring area using a female or male whatever is needed plug and wire. if you can , use shielded wire for the signal + wire.
3 of the 4 wires(all but the heater + , so one of the black wires , dont matte which) above you run from the sensor to the c101 plug. simply cut them where they enter the c101 and strip and splice them.
now the fun part , lol. get yourself a 4 wire relay. relays have 2 sides , the coil and the switch , when the coil sees power it activates the switch.
on the coil side of the relay , you need to run a wire from pin 8 of the ecu's E plug (E8) to one wire of the 2 for the coil , the other wire for the coil needs to go to an IGP wire , wire that sees 12v only when key is ON.
now for the other side of the relay , the switch side. one wire of the switch side needs to go to a constant and fused 12v power , and the switch side wire needs to go to the heater + wire leftover from the C101 plug.
I started with a RSX-S engine harness and nothing more. The ECU has been relocated to behind the driver's seat (being mid-engine) so it's only about 18" from the ECU to the O2 sensor. For this reason, there is no need for intermediate connectors. I go from the O2 sensor, through its connector, directly to the ECU's A connector.
I have it connected as follows:
Black wire #1: goes to a relay that supplies +12V when ignition is on. Confirmed +12V present.
Black wire #2: goes to ECU pin A1. See some voltage open-circuit here, so the connection's good.
White wire: goes to ECU A6.
Green wire: goes to ECU A16.
That's it, end of story. So unless the Helm's manual is wrong I have it wired correctly. As an earlier post notes, I've checked continuity, applied a simulated signal, and checked the heater circuit. They're both dead. The heater never operates and the O2 reading never moves.
I confirmed that the heater does work if connected briefly to +12 volts, so there's no problem there. The suspicion is that whoever I bought the ECU from blew up the O2 circuit. So unless the Helm's is wrong twice, (for both the signal wires and heater) I don't think there's much more to try other that another ECU, which I don't have...
I appreciate the help, but I think I've tried everything there is to try. Thought I'm an EE, without a schematic of the Honda ECU, there's not much else to do.
Does Hondata test the O2 sensor input and heater when they receive an ECU for conversion? Does the O2 sensor read a live A/F ratio without the engine running?
I have it connected as follows:
Black wire #1: goes to a relay that supplies +12V when ignition is on. Confirmed +12V present.
Black wire #2: goes to ECU pin A1. See some voltage open-circuit here, so the connection's good.
White wire: goes to ECU A6.
Green wire: goes to ECU A16.
That's it, end of story. So unless the Helm's manual is wrong I have it wired correctly. As an earlier post notes, I've checked continuity, applied a simulated signal, and checked the heater circuit. They're both dead. The heater never operates and the O2 reading never moves.
I confirmed that the heater does work if connected briefly to +12 volts, so there's no problem there. The suspicion is that whoever I bought the ECU from blew up the O2 circuit. So unless the Helm's is wrong twice, (for both the signal wires and heater) I don't think there's much more to try other that another ECU, which I don't have...
I appreciate the help, but I think I've tried everything there is to try. Thought I'm an EE, without a schematic of the Honda ECU, there's not much else to do.
Does Hondata test the O2 sensor input and heater when they receive an ECU for conversion? Does the O2 sensor read a live A/F ratio without the engine running?
Mid-engine K24 turbo Locost, http://www.midlana.com