ok it is for sure set at P0, ive had this guage for so long that I forgot to notice that every time I turn over the key it says what setting its in.
Im going to uncouple the guage as you stated and set the offset so they match and make sure that I have the heater enabled
I will double check to make sure that I dont have D10 and D14 mixed up
hypatheticly speaking, If I did cut the O2(D14) and attach the out put for the guage, wouldnt it throw a MIL(CEL)?
lastly, ive search up and down my smanage program this morning and I cant find where its set to 0-4.24v,10-18.5AF. can you poing me in the right direction as to where your seeing this?
A/F ratio doesn't change in the display or datologs
Dont know exactly how long it takes to throw a fuel system code(O2 CEL),think it has like 2 engine start fault detection to stop intermittent error reports & all that kind of crap & dont know exactly what paramaters the ecu is looking for from the O2 sensor to actuallly call a fault.
O2 heater failure will trip immediate CEL however.
Id say after a few drives u'll get a CEL if AEM is on D14,but,maybe im wrong.
Sorry,its not in your settings(closed loop tab is only place to calibrate O2 voltage conversion info in Smanager),but i meant the AEM document says the analog output is putting out a 0-4.25V,10-18.5AF signal(when set to P0 or P1).
I dont know why it stops at 4.25V the table AEM show,but at a glance it looks like those figures would give about the same linear slope as a 0-5V,10-20AF setting.
I cbf doing the exact math but u can if u want,or just enter the 0-4.25V,10-18.5AF figures in Smanager to save the hassle.
Its just real wierd how your O2(D14) data is showing wideband values(nearly 4V in parts) & your ELD is showing narrowband like figures in the 0-1V range.
Really sorta points to the 2 wires being swapped arseabout,did u depin the ecu plugs at any stage to do the tuck?
Maybe thats when they got reversed.....
O2 heater failure will trip immediate CEL however.
Id say after a few drives u'll get a CEL if AEM is on D14,but,maybe im wrong.
Sorry,its not in your settings(closed loop tab is only place to calibrate O2 voltage conversion info in Smanager),but i meant the AEM document says the analog output is putting out a 0-4.25V,10-18.5AF signal(when set to P0 or P1).
I dont know why it stops at 4.25V the table AEM show,but at a glance it looks like those figures would give about the same linear slope as a 0-5V,10-20AF setting.
I cbf doing the exact math but u can if u want,or just enter the 0-4.25V,10-18.5AF figures in Smanager to save the hassle.
Its just real wierd how your O2(D14) data is showing wideband values(nearly 4V in parts) & your ELD is showing narrowband like figures in the 0-1V range.
Really sorta points to the 2 wires being swapped arseabout,did u depin the ecu plugs at any stage to do the tuck?
Maybe thats when they got reversed.....
So I finnaly figgured it out after looking at a couple of wiring scemadics.
The DA integra does NOT have an ELD or even a wire going to pin D10 for that mater. the wire I connected it too was the D14. As soon as I switch the imput source to D14. Voila, worked like a charm.
So now all i need to know is obviusly im not using my stock O2 sensor, should I just leave it pluged in and disable the heater or leave the heater enabled.
thanks for all your imput, it been invaluable too me
The DA integra does NOT have an ELD or even a wire going to pin D10 for that mater. the wire I connected it too was the D14. As soon as I switch the imput source to D14. Voila, worked like a charm.
So now all i need to know is obviusly im not using my stock O2 sensor, should I just leave it pluged in and disable the heater or leave the heater enabled.
thanks for all your imput, it been invaluable too me
What u do with stock O2 sensor depends whether u want to run the ECU in closed loop operation when u are finished tuning.
U need a narrowband signal to D14 to run closed loop.
The AEM will simulate narrowband to the ECU to run closed loop if u switch it to P4,but its unclear from the document as to what the AEM gauge will then read.
The way it reads to me is the gauge will then read narrowband values as well,which is fairly useless to u for everyday monitoring purposes.
But again i could be wrong & its easy enough for u to see what will happen if set to P4,what it reads.
Most other wideband units have 2 analog outputs which u configure 1 to narrow & one to wide, & just dispose of the stock O2 sensor.
If u do not use the stock O2 connected to the ECU,u will have to disable the heater in Smanager.
This disables the error check on the O2 heater so the ECU can run code(CEL) free,as the AEM has its own heater, which is controlled by its own control unit independant of the ECU.
Theres no point to leaving the stock O2 plugged in & heater working,when u have a simple tool like Smanager to just disable the error check.
If u dont feed a "narrow" signal to D14 then u will have to disable closed loop operation also & run permanently open loop.
Seeing as though u already have 2 bungs welded in & 2 good working sensors already mounted,i would just source a spare pin from somewhere & insert it into the vacant D10 spot & wire your AEM to that,therefore leaving the stock O2 to do its thing & run closed loop,with the AEM permanently doing wideband duties.
U might even have a spare pin in your ECU plugs there somewhere already if u have deleted Air Con or some other luxury like that,or just go steal a plug pin out of a wreck down at the junkyard to enable a D10 input.
The P28 will have the ELD circuitry,im lead to believe,its just the DA dont have the simple little wire inserted there in D10.
U need a narrowband signal to D14 to run closed loop.
The AEM will simulate narrowband to the ECU to run closed loop if u switch it to P4,but its unclear from the document as to what the AEM gauge will then read.
The way it reads to me is the gauge will then read narrowband values as well,which is fairly useless to u for everyday monitoring purposes.
But again i could be wrong & its easy enough for u to see what will happen if set to P4,what it reads.
Most other wideband units have 2 analog outputs which u configure 1 to narrow & one to wide, & just dispose of the stock O2 sensor.
If u do not use the stock O2 connected to the ECU,u will have to disable the heater in Smanager.
This disables the error check on the O2 heater so the ECU can run code(CEL) free,as the AEM has its own heater, which is controlled by its own control unit independant of the ECU.
Theres no point to leaving the stock O2 plugged in & heater working,when u have a simple tool like Smanager to just disable the error check.
If u dont feed a "narrow" signal to D14 then u will have to disable closed loop operation also & run permanently open loop.
Seeing as though u already have 2 bungs welded in & 2 good working sensors already mounted,i would just source a spare pin from somewhere & insert it into the vacant D10 spot & wire your AEM to that,therefore leaving the stock O2 to do its thing & run closed loop,with the AEM permanently doing wideband duties.
U might even have a spare pin in your ECU plugs there somewhere already if u have deleted Air Con or some other luxury like that,or just go steal a plug pin out of a wreck down at the junkyard to enable a D10 input.
The P28 will have the ELD circuitry,im lead to believe,its just the DA dont have the simple little wire inserted there in D10.
I should add,
If u are tryin to calibrate the offset voltage in Smanager(if u do actually need an offset of course),by using the disconnect sensor from AEM so its spits out constant 2.53V method,
when u add offset values the ELD or O2 voltage readings will not change.
If u look a little further down the sensor list in Sensors tab or Graphs tab in Smanager,u will see a sensor "L.volts",that is the reading u will be trying to get to match to 2.53V,this is the wideband input source selected + the offset voltage entered.
L.volt is the value that gets converted to AF values thru the volt>AF info u entered at bottom of closed loop tab.
If u are tryin to calibrate the offset voltage in Smanager(if u do actually need an offset of course),by using the disconnect sensor from AEM so its spits out constant 2.53V method,
when u add offset values the ELD or O2 voltage readings will not change.
If u look a little further down the sensor list in Sensors tab or Graphs tab in Smanager,u will see a sensor "L.volts",that is the reading u will be trying to get to match to 2.53V,this is the wideband input source selected + the offset voltage entered.
L.volt is the value that gets converted to AF values thru the volt>AF info u entered at bottom of closed loop tab.
fly_n wrote:What u do with stock O2 sensor depends whether u want to run the ECU in closed loop operation when u are finished tuning.
U need a narrowband signal to D14 to run closed loop.
The AEM will simulate narrowband to the ECU to run closed loop if u switch it to P4,but its unclear from the document as to what the AEM gauge will then read.
The way it reads to me is the gauge will then read narrowband values as well,which is fairly useless to u for everyday monitoring purposes.
But again i could be wrong & its easy enough for u to see what will happen if set to P4,what it reads.
Most other wideband units have 2 analog outputs which u configure 1 to narrow & one to wide, & just dispose of the stock O2 sensor.
If u do not use the stock O2 connected to the ECU,u will have to disable the heater in Smanager.
This disables the error check on the O2 heater so the ECU can run code(CEL) free,as the AEM has its own heater, which is controlled by its own control unit independant of the ECU.
Theres no point to leaving the stock O2 plugged in & heater working,when u have a simple tool like Smanager to just disable the error check.
If u dont feed a "narrow" signal to D14 then u will have to disable closed loop operation also & run permanently open loop.
Seeing as though u already have 2 bungs welded in & 2 good working sensors already mounted,i would just source a spare pin from somewhere & insert it into the vacant D10 spot & wire your AEM to that,therefore leaving the stock O2 to do its thing & run closed loop,with the AEM permanently doing wideband duties.
U might even have a spare pin in your ECU plugs there somewhere already if u have deleted Air Con or some other luxury like that,or just go steal a plug pin out of a wreck down at the junkyard to enable a D10 input.
The P28 will have the ELD circuitry,im lead to believe,its just the DA dont have the simple little wire inserted there in D10.
I like the Idea of sourcing a spare pin and using it to plug into D10 and then I can just reconect D14. I have deleted the A/C, but if I use that pin for wide band, woulndt it diable it if I want to use the A/C for on board dataloging?
Ive tried depining a ecu connector with no luck, any tips on it
Dualy Notedfly_n wrote:I should add,
If u are tryin to calibrate the offset voltage in Smanager(if u do actually need an offset of course),by using the disconnect sensor from AEM so its spits out constant 2.53V method,
when u add offset values the ELD or O2 voltage readings will not change.
If u look a little further down the sensor list in Sensors tab or Graphs tab in Smanager,u will see a sensor "L.volts",that is the reading u will be trying to get to match to 2.53V,this is the wideband input source selected + the offset voltage entered.
L.volt is the value that gets converted to AF values thru the volt>AF info u entered at bottom of closed loop tab.
If u want to use the A/C switch for data then u will have to keep that pin,but since your not using A/C in the car,then u can steal the pin from A15? A/C compressor clutch output instead(assuming your not using this output for something else)
Probably easier to just go down the junkyard & chop some plugs off a wreck,it sounds like u do a fair bit of wiring anyway,so u will then have all the pins u will ever need.
Better still take a whole loom,they come in real handy if u do a lot of honda wiring work.
Just beware there are 2 sizes of pin in the ECU plugs,u want the small size for D10.U can see this obviously enough by lookin at size of holes in plugs & the big pins are just on the ends of the A-plug for power,injectors,etc.
To depin,
U will need a small tool,i find my smallest jewellers screwdriver(flatblade) works well.U can even use a needle or similar,but a flat tip works best.
Have a look at diagram below,
-flip open flaps on plug at wire side,u will see how they lock in at ends of flaps,u need to do this to allow pin to come out,all plugs in the car will have something of this nature u will have to open or remove from the wire side before u start.
-slide tool in to the big hole on the pin side of plug(the little hole is where the pin connects to ECU),try to angle tool so that the end slides along the topp of pin & u will feel it stop against the latch. Look thru a hole in plug where pin is missing from already & u will see the latch better that u are trying to deal with.
-as u try to lever/lift latch with tool away from pin,have your fingers pulling on wire from wire side at same time & u will feel it just pop out once u have successsfully lifted the latch.
dont forget its plastic u are dealing with so if u force things u will deform things & make the job harder.
it even helps sometimes if u just push the wire into the plug a little while your lifting latch to take some pressure of the latch so it will lift easier,then pull the wire free of the plug.
u can hear the latch snap back into place if u drop it,so just try lift it again with tool,remember no force should be required to do anything,if wire/pin dont come out,then u havent released the latch successfully,try again.
Probably easier to just go down the junkyard & chop some plugs off a wreck,it sounds like u do a fair bit of wiring anyway,so u will then have all the pins u will ever need.
Better still take a whole loom,they come in real handy if u do a lot of honda wiring work.
Just beware there are 2 sizes of pin in the ECU plugs,u want the small size for D10.U can see this obviously enough by lookin at size of holes in plugs & the big pins are just on the ends of the A-plug for power,injectors,etc.
To depin,
U will need a small tool,i find my smallest jewellers screwdriver(flatblade) works well.U can even use a needle or similar,but a flat tip works best.
Have a look at diagram below,
-flip open flaps on plug at wire side,u will see how they lock in at ends of flaps,u need to do this to allow pin to come out,all plugs in the car will have something of this nature u will have to open or remove from the wire side before u start.
-slide tool in to the big hole on the pin side of plug(the little hole is where the pin connects to ECU),try to angle tool so that the end slides along the topp of pin & u will feel it stop against the latch. Look thru a hole in plug where pin is missing from already & u will see the latch better that u are trying to deal with.
-as u try to lever/lift latch with tool away from pin,have your fingers pulling on wire from wire side at same time & u will feel it just pop out once u have successsfully lifted the latch.
dont forget its plastic u are dealing with so if u force things u will deform things & make the job harder.
it even helps sometimes if u just push the wire into the plug a little while your lifting latch to take some pressure of the latch so it will lift easier,then pull the wire free of the plug.
u can hear the latch snap back into place if u drop it,so just try lift it again with tool,remember no force should be required to do anything,if wire/pin dont come out,then u havent released the latch successfully,try again.
exlent info man, and very detail pic :)
Since on here, I tried using the AC switch to use the onboard dataloging but when I hooked up the computer there was nothing to upload. So my question is, since the AC has been totaly removed. when I push the AC button and turn it on, will it still activate the dataloging like it should or am I going to have to hook a swithch up to it?
Since on here, I tried using the AC switch to use the onboard dataloging but when I hooked up the computer there was nothing to upload. So my question is, since the AC has been totaly removed. when I push the AC button and turn it on, will it still activate the dataloging like it should or am I going to have to hook a swithch up to it?
In between the A/C switch & the ECU lies the thermostat & the refrigerant pressure switch in normal operation.
When u remove the A/C u will have at a minimum,unplugged the pressure switch(big fat plug on the refigerant lines in the engine bay),so u have lost the signal to the ECU.
If u removed the evaporator unit as well from under the dash(thing in the black box),then u will have unplugged the thermostat as well,so u will have 2 breaks in the wire.
Also there is no A/C switch signal to the ECU if you dont have the blower fan switched on to one of the speed settings other than off.
So if u want to use the actual A/c switch on the dash for an ECU input,then u will have to rewire it as ive shown on the diagram in this thread below
viewtopic.php?t=9603&highlight=switch
Alternatively,just cut the A/C switch wire input at the ECU & join your own switch to the wire with the other side of the new switch- switching to ground.
When u remove the A/C u will have at a minimum,unplugged the pressure switch(big fat plug on the refigerant lines in the engine bay),so u have lost the signal to the ECU.
If u removed the evaporator unit as well from under the dash(thing in the black box),then u will have unplugged the thermostat as well,so u will have 2 breaks in the wire.
Also there is no A/C switch signal to the ECU if you dont have the blower fan switched on to one of the speed settings other than off.
So if u want to use the actual A/c switch on the dash for an ECU input,then u will have to rewire it as ive shown on the diagram in this thread below
viewtopic.php?t=9603&highlight=switch
Alternatively,just cut the A/C switch wire input at the ECU & join your own switch to the wire with the other side of the new switch- switching to ground.