JSRC / HONDATA s200 and No Glory

[It Revs]

JSRC / HONDATA s200 and No Glory
I've had idle issues from the get go. Mostly Idling, Vtec Pressure and Vtec spool errors.
The car is running really rich right now and throwing error 9 in the hondalogger software.

I'm running the big boost tune from hondata for the Jackson Racing Supercharger.

I've changed out: Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, and tried a new coil.
Installed the stock FPR back on to the AEM Fuel Rail, and still No Glory. I've switched to many different Hondata tunes and it still exhibits the same symptoms;
really rich AF ratios and bogs when on the throttle.

I've done a compression check and get 180, 210, 210, 190.

I've tried to talk with Hondata, and they tell me there isn't anything wrong with the s200 unit. I've unplugged the s200 and the car still runs like crap, so they might be right.

Could this be the P28 ecu? I'm open to any suggestions, as the car is not drivable right now.

I'm Frustrated beyond belief!

Here is my setup
2000 Prelude, H22a engine, stock internals.
Hondata S200
Boost Capability option
Data logging capability
ROM Editor V3
Romulator real-time emulator
Pocket Programmer with emulator board
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
RC Engineering 550cc injectors
3 Step Rev Limiter
PLX M200 Wideband
JRSC @ 6PSI
DC Header
High Flow Cat
Mugen Exhaust
JR Oil Cooler

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'm going to give it another week, and I'm going back to a N/A setup.

[Quik Sol]

ever thought of having a custom tune and not pre-made ones. Every car is different.

[hypa]

I wish I had some more info for you, other than the boost bin's work, and work well (thanks matt!).

I know the P28 has been giving people problems. Mine stalls at times, and there's sweet nothing I can do to tune it out. Don't give up though man. The season is still so young, and the potential for your setup is pretty good.

[redsidriver]

i bought the exact same system for my 2000 si and i am having similar problems. my idle sucks and dies whenever i coem to a complet stop .i cant go past 3500 rpm and my check engine light is on . i havnet gotten the code yet im gettin that tomorow. it ran fine for like 2 weeks then boom driving down the freeway it fucked istself. i also sent the unti back to hondata and they told me there was nothing wrong with it

[01 LudeDude]

I have a very similar setup to you guys, with similar problems.
I have:
01 Prelude (non-sh)
h22a - stock internals (35K miles)
JRSC @ 6psi (have 9psi pulley, gotta work out the bugs before even considering that thing)
JR pump and injectors
AEM Fuel Rail and FPR
DC Header
Mugen exhaust
AEM Cold Air
ZEX 50 shot NOS kit (never shot to engine, just purged at shows)
Hondata S200 W/boost option

The car starts within 2 seconds every time, but the idle is slightly rough for the first 60 seconds of running if the engine is cold. After it's warm, it idles fine, right about 700 RPM or so. Low-mid rev acceleration is pretty strong, say between 1K and 5K, it pulls nicely, but as soon as Vtec hits at 5500, it bogs and gains revs slowly. I actually lose power in Vtec. I'm fairly knowledgable of engines, but far from an expert...hence my questions in here I do however have a theory. I susspect that my fuel and/or timing maps for Vtec are fudged, and it's burning lean in Vtec as it is now. My Bargraph A/F meter reads 100% rich at a cold idle(will black smoke slightly is so damn rich), about 75% rich at warm idle, 70% rich between 1K and 3K rpm, and drops to around 60% rich from 3K to 6K, I havent reved it above 6K because of the Vtec problems. It seems as if the A/F ratios arent programmed to increase when Vtec engages, so it is simply starving for fuel from the increased valve opening and the 6psi boost. The other thing that led me to believe the above, is looking at the plugs after driving to my brothers last weekend, about a 40 mile drive. The plugs must have gotten fairly hot, probably when I atempted to hit Vtec, as the tips were slighly white, with alot of black at the base of them, from the rich idle. That's my theory anyway, what do you fellas think? I'm open to any other theory you might have.

[methods]

I have the same settup, problem solved.

(H22, JRSC 13psi, fully built, S200, J&S, etc.


The car should idle fne. The problem is with YOUR tune.

As far as starting, you can do the following. Untill i did this the car would always have trouble starting:

Add a J&S safe gaurd to protect your motor.
Utilize its ability to bypass the stock ignitor circuit
Remove the stock iginitor circuit
Install an MSD (Digital 6 plus or whatever)
Drive the MSD directly witht he J&S

Remove the coil and "Plug" from the Distributor.
Tap the wiring and supply the tach signal (which is no longer being created since you removed the stock ignitor) and apply the RPM signal that the MSD creates.

So,,,

No ignitor
RPM signal from MSD

ECU to J&S to MSD to MSD COIL to distributor to wires to plugs,,,

Anyway if you dont know what i am talking about dont try it.

If you dont own a Helms Manual dont try it

If you cant tune your own hondata dont install it

If you dont have a WBO2 dont try to tune

If you run boost you NEED to tune well or pay the price


Listen to me or not, whatever... I dont care. Have fun

I have blown up a few of these.

PS Dont reply, i only come here once a month or two.

(theoldone is where i reside if you want to come and tell me to eat shit or somthing



EDIT: I forgot to tell you how i solved the starting/idleing problem...

I got the MSD Digital 6 plus and set it to setting 0 instead of 4. This retarded the timing 20 degrees at startup and now it goes WHOOOOM!!!! and starts on the first turn every time. you also need to accuratly set the starting mixture in ROM EDITOR. There is a BIG difference between .4 and .6...... Good luck.

I have used the P28 and P72, the poblems will follow you.

TUNE IT WELL, EXPECT INCONSISTANCY, ENJOY

PSS I didnt read any of the posts so sorry if i repeated
info.