help, please read this

travis1976 · Post by **travis1976** » Sat Jun 06, 2009 3:27 pm

New to hondata. Just got a S300 for my turbo b16 in a crx. Plan on getting tuned Monday morning. Tuner made me a basic start up. Pretty much just a b16 with 1000cc injectors is what he said. It started up a few times but fowled the plugs immediately. The problem is code 4. I have done all the wiring and it is all good. Bought a new distributor thinking that was the problem. Still get the code 4 when I try to start it. I found an old crx manual on the internet and it has a different color diagram on the distributor. I am running the ones everyone else on the internet seems to. With the blue/green wires going to the crank angle sensor. And orange and white going to the cylinder sensor. Funny thing is inside the distributor the blue and green go to a dial with four pickups on it and the white and orange go to one with only one pickup on top. Really want to get tuned on Monday. Can anyone help. Does anyone know the inside of the distributor well and can answer which sensor is which. I also figure it doesn't matter which way you hook up the two wires in a set. correct me if I am wrong. thanks for any help. Again wiring is showing 0 resistance on those two wires going from the distributor to the ecu plug.

travis1976 · Post by **travis1976** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:41 pm

Okay went over everything again today. Wiring is great. New distributor. don't know what else to do. Anyone ever have this problem before? shoot me any ideas. C'mon you all went on for two pages about having to use a relay for the fan you have to have something to say about this :lol: . Thanks, Travis

fly_n · Post by **fly_n** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:32 am

ok,u really have to state what dizzy,what engine harness,what main car harness your using,EF8 or b16 swap,was conversion harness used at ecu,etc,etc .there is quite a number of ways to update the ol' crx to obd1.

the basics of it is,(assuming your talking about a gen2 88-91 crx)

in the obd0 crx(88-91),
- the cylinder sensor(1 tooth wheel that used to sit on the exhaust cam of my old d16a8 DOHC) used to have the blue wires going to it.
- the crank angle sensor(16 tooth wheel in dizzy) used to have the orange & white wire going to it.

when obd1(91+) came around after the crx they swapped the cylinder sensor colours to the crank sensor colours(dumb move by honda),so it became
cylinder sensor =orange & white
crank sensor(became a 24 tooth wheel) =blue/green & blue/yellow

the TDC sensor(4 tooth wheel in the dizzy) remained orange/blue & white/blue in both cases,which has me puzzled because u said the "4 pickup wheel" is blue wires.

so with all the confusion,i suggest u just get a multimeter & just match up what ever u have to the following, thats assuming u have an obd1 dizzy(with 24tooth crank sensor,not 16 tooth) if not u'll have to get one.

obd1 dizzy to obd1 ecu,
1 tooth wheel(CYL sensor) should have orange & white wire attached to sensor pickup.
orange = B11(at ECU),white = B12

4 tooth wheel(TDC sensor),
orange/blue = B13 , white/blue = B14

24 tooth wheel(CKP sensor),
blue/green = B15 , blue/yellow = B16

so what u have to do is translate the above thru whatever wire colours u find ,wherever u decided to make adaptions in the different wiring harnesses.

travis1976 · Post by **travis1976** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 10:33 am

obd1 distributor. wiring is showing perfect everywhere. going to put the ecu in an integra today and see if I get the same code. thanks, anyway

travis1976 · Post by **travis1976** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 3:47 pm

Pulled the top of the ecu and it is crispy. Has no burnt smell and looks like it has been that way for a while. It looks like they soldered a new piece in to fix it but didn't do a good job. You can tell the prongs were soldered by hand and not machine and one prong didn't have any solder on it. got the ecu already installed from a place called Full Throttle in NY. Ordered a new one from someone else today and will be returning this one. Guy on the phone even gave me an attitude about the whole thing.

fly_n · Post by **fly_n** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 10:40 pm

nice stuff,looks like that ecu spent some of its life in a junkyard anyway.

i wouldnt have a clue,but to anyone more knowledgable,are those burnt out parts an attempted vtec conversion to non vtec ecu?

travis1976 · Post by **travis1976** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 6:23 am

You might be right. It is a p06 converted. I too have limited knowledge of inside the ecu. But that would answer alot for me. Guy is trying to say it was fine when he sent it but for there to be that much damage and not be able to smell any burnt smell at all makes me wonder. It even looks like some of the burnt soot was wiped away and cleaned. And yea, you like that rust scaling on the inside there huh. Kinda looks like salt deposits.

fly_n · Post by **fly_n** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:16 am

Nope......thats a fail for me......

http://www.xenocron.com/install/11f0.htm

boosted chemist · Post by **boosted chemist** » Thu Jun 11, 2009 6:37 am

Im having the same problem and its frustrating as all hell. I hope its the ecu causing it in your car.

travis1976 · Post by **travis1976** » Thu Jun 11, 2009 8:57 am

Since someone else is having the problem I'll keep it updated until fixed. Got new ecu and this one is prestine from Lightning Motorsports in Baton Rouge, LA. Had same code though. Using an old ecu and backprobing from inside I found out it was loosing signal inside the ecu plug. Fixed it and problem went away. But now I get a cylinder position sensor code. Thought maybe it was the same problem but I get perfect reading inside the ecu and I get 368 ohms on the sensor itself from inside the ecu so I know it's not the wiring. Brand new distributor but I ordered another one for tomorrow. I don't have a working occisilliscope (spelled wrong) so I can't look at the output of the sensor. I tried using a multimeter and see if I could get anything. The volts never got to one volt. I know at cranking I should see about 2 volts on a waveform but don't know if the sample rate on the multimeter is fast enough to pick up the signal. I have exhausted all other options and ideas. Hope to put new distributor on and have a great day but things don't work that simple for me.

travis1976 · Post by **travis1976** » Thu Jun 11, 2009 9:00 am

Was told by Hondata dealer that burnt up hardware is from someone hooking up the tps and purge valve backwards on engine.

boostedcivicsir · Post by **boostedcivicsir** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 10:56 am

how do you mess up a 2 and 3 pin connector? the tps and purge make no sense. although stranger things have happened before.

maybe IAT and purge.

travis1976 · Post by **travis1976** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 4:53 pm

OK. Polarity of the two wires within the set DOES matter. Switched the cyl sensor wires around and all is good. I hate these jumper harnesses! I had to go through and change a bunch of things. Car runs with no check engine lights. Loaded a basemap and warmed it up. I even rolled down a couple of blocks to the gas station ever so gently for a full tank. My car is finished after 18 months and just sitting there waiting for a tune. And you are right, it wasn't the tps. Sorry

boosted chemist · Post by **boosted chemist** » Sat Jun 13, 2009 7:33 am

cool, i checked the polarity of my sensor 5 times, its good. AT least you found your answer, im still lost. Fuck this sucks lol

help, please read this

help, please read this

burnt ecu