calibrations
Fair enough. I have yet another question. If you aren't able to get us a turbo calibration at launch, would you be so kind as to post up a video with some basic fuel and timing adjustments that will get us safe enough to start logging. Like say we have a GReddy or TSI kit with 440cc or 550cc injectors, is there a certain percentage value of fuel you would need to add at a certain boost pressure to get into a safe range where we can start logging? I know all cars are different but all our setups are pretty close to the same. It would be like a reflash class, sort of. lol. The timing isn't that tough. I can always use the standard 1* retard per psi. But the fuel is where I get a little iffy. Also, when upping the injector size, will changing that value automatically adjust the fuel in the tables to support that size for idle and start up? or will we have to adjust all the values across the entire table? If you could possibly give us some direction in this area it would REALLY help us noob tuners out BIG time. Thanks so much again for even taking the time to read and answer my repeated questions. Lol...
tons of question
Im going to try and lump ALL my many questions in to a wholistic one and see how that fairs me before bombarding anyone with them one at a time:
I plan to have an injen CAI, Race Header, Exhaust, Throttle body spacer, pulleys, a fuel rail, and larger injectors before I get FlashPro. What must I do to maximize the potential of these modifications once I get the FlashPro?
I plan to have an injen CAI, Race Header, Exhaust, Throttle body spacer, pulleys, a fuel rail, and larger injectors before I get FlashPro. What must I do to maximize the potential of these modifications once I get the FlashPro?
Oh hi
Changing injector size is just a matter of changing one number. Cranking, idle, main tables are all altered with this one change.
Aftermarket fuel fails are smaller internally than stock. No real benefit from using them unless you need to do a return fuel system for forced induction.
Pulleys don't affect tuning. Note: don't replace the crank pulley.
Otherwise the AFM will compensate for the race header and exhaust. You should be able to just use a starting calibration.
The stock injectors are good for ~250hp. For NA applications, just stick with the stock injectors - it will be easier to tune.I plan to have an injen CAI, Race Header, Exhaust, Throttle body spacer, pulleys, a fuel rail, and larger injectors before I get FlashPro. What must I do to maximize the potential of these modifications once I get the FlashPro?
Aftermarket fuel fails are smaller internally than stock. No real benefit from using them unless you need to do a return fuel system for forced induction.
Pulleys don't affect tuning. Note: don't replace the crank pulley.
Otherwise the AFM will compensate for the race header and exhaust. You should be able to just use a starting calibration.
Hondata
More specifically
Alright, I think I better elaborate on what I asked. So, injectors and fuel components aside, if I have an intake, header and exhaust, will there be a preloaded calibration on the FlashPro which I can use WITHOUT a professional tune that is optimized for horsepower gains? I only ask because my only tuning shop around here is about $150 per hour for dynojet, and if there was an option to simply plug it into the car that'd be great. I understand the idea of base calibrations, but are their calibrations set up for the modifications I mentioned or will tuning be required? And also, if they ARE preloaded maps for those mods, are the maps provided designed for optimal HP gains or are they made as a compromise? Thank you for your attention!
Additionally, are you able to comment on expected/proven gains from the I/H/E preloaded calibrations?
Additionally, are you able to comment on expected/proven gains from the I/H/E preloaded calibrations?
Oh hi
Awesome. Now, once the 90-second (approximate) retuning time has ended and the clibrations have loaded to your ecu, do you remove the flashpro from the diagnostic port or are you supposed to leave it plugged in while driving?
Also, in one of the instruction videos it shows 'Doug' setting the vtec window. However, it appeared as though he set it to "lower = 7500, and upper=7500", therefore not really a 'window' for vtec. Why was that? Additionally, when setting the vtec window are you limited to the duration of the window? For example, if it were reset to, say, 4000rpm for lower engagement, could you have a vtec window greater than 2800 rpm in length? Like from 4,000rpm to 8,000rpm?
Concerning the base calibrations available for I/H/E-equipped cars, do these calibrations automatically reset the rev limit or vtec window? Or is that something chosen by the tuner? Thank you AGAIN for all the help!
Also, in one of the instruction videos it shows 'Doug' setting the vtec window. However, it appeared as though he set it to "lower = 7500, and upper=7500", therefore not really a 'window' for vtec. Why was that? Additionally, when setting the vtec window are you limited to the duration of the window? For example, if it were reset to, say, 4000rpm for lower engagement, could you have a vtec window greater than 2800 rpm in length? Like from 4,000rpm to 8,000rpm?
Concerning the base calibrations available for I/H/E-equipped cars, do these calibrations automatically reset the rev limit or vtec window? Or is that something chosen by the tuner? Thank you AGAIN for all the help!
Oh hi
Crank Pulley
What is wrong with replacing the crank pulley??Hondata wrote:Changing injector size is just a matter of changing one number. Cranking, idle, main tables are all altered with this one change.
The stock injectors are good for ~250hp. For NA applications, just stick with the stock injectors - it will be easier to tune.I plan to have an injen CAI, Race Header, Exhaust, Throttle body spacer, pulleys, a fuel rail, and larger injectors before I get FlashPro. What must I do to maximize the potential of these modifications once I get the FlashPro?
Aftermarket fuel fails are smaller internally than stock. No real benefit from using them unless you need to do a return fuel system for forced induction.
Pulleys don't affect tuning. Note: don't replace the crank pulley.
Otherwise the AFM will compensate for the race header and exhaust. You should be able to just use a starting calibration.
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ImAuthenticFTW
- Posts: 78
- Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 12:59 pm
when doug set the vtec window at 7500 he was doing that to tune the low profile cam...AdamWadd wrote:Awesome. Now, once the 90-second (approximate) retuning time has ended and the clibrations have loaded to your ecu, do you remove the flashpro from the diagnostic port or are you supposed to leave it plugged in while driving?
Also, in one of the instruction videos it shows 'Doug' setting the vtec window. However, it appeared as though he set it to "lower = 7500, and upper=7500", therefore not really a 'window' for vtec. Why was that? Additionally, when setting the vtec window are you limited to the duration of the window? For example, if it were reset to, say, 4000rpm for lower engagement, could you have a vtec window greater than 2800 rpm in length? Like from 4,000rpm to 8,000rpm?
Concerning the base calibrations available for I/H/E-equipped cars, do these calibrations automatically reset the rev limit or vtec window? Or is that something chosen by the tuner? Thank you AGAIN for all the help!
and i dont think your understanding out the vtec window works, say i have a wimdow from 4.5k to 5.8k what that mean is at full throttle vtec will engauge at 4.5k but at part throttle it will kick in at 5.8. each time vtec will run to redline....
Re: Crank Pulley
The stock crank pulley has a rubber isolated inertia ring. Replacement crank pulleys don't.2xSI wrote:What is wrong with replacing the crank pulley??
Hondata
So essentially, in your example of the 4.5k to 5.8k window, below 4.5k is always low cam, and above 5.8k is always high cam, but between 4.5 and 5.8 the cam profiles vary depending on throttle input? Does that also mean the stock vtec window is basically lower=5800 and upper=5800, too?ImAuthenticFTW wrote:when doug set the vtec window at 7500 he was doing that to tune the low profile cam...AdamWadd wrote:Awesome. Now, once the 90-second (approximate) retuning time has ended and the clibrations have loaded to your ecu, do you remove the flashpro from the diagnostic port or are you supposed to leave it plugged in while driving?
Also, in one of the instruction videos it shows 'Doug' setting the vtec window. However, it appeared as though he set it to "lower = 7500, and upper=7500", therefore not really a 'window' for vtec. Why was that? Additionally, when setting the vtec window are you limited to the duration of the window? For example, if it were reset to, say, 4000rpm for lower engagement, could you have a vtec window greater than 2800 rpm in length? Like from 4,000rpm to 8,000rpm?
Concerning the base calibrations available for I/H/E-equipped cars, do these calibrations automatically reset the rev limit or vtec window? Or is that something chosen by the tuner? Thank you AGAIN for all the help!
and i dont think your understanding out the vtec window works, say i have a wimdow from 4.5k to 5.8k what that mean is at full throttle vtec will engauge at 4.5k but at part throttle it will kick in at 5.8. each time vtec will run to redline....
Oh hi
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ImAuthenticFTW
- Posts: 78
- Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 12:59 pm
Yatzee!! i rule, hehe
Stange though, it makes it almost seem as though in stock form the whole concept of vtec is really underutilized. It's capable of doing so much manipulation during the "window" and yet the way its set up stock is only has two modes: high cam, or low cam, regardless of throttle input.
Stange though, it makes it almost seem as though in stock form the whole concept of vtec is really underutilized. It's capable of doing so much manipulation during the "window" and yet the way its set up stock is only has two modes: high cam, or low cam, regardless of throttle input.
Oh hi
Re: Crank Pulley
aluminum crank pulley offer no crank dampening and bearing life will suffer greatly as a result.Hondata wrote:The stock crank pulley has a rubber isolated inertia ring. Replacement crank pulleys don't.2xSI wrote:What is wrong with replacing the crank pulley??
Re: Crank Pulley
NST has been selling these for years. The guys on 8thcivic.com are using these with no problems and the k20z3 is internally balanced. Where is the proof to back it up.Karim wrote:aluminum crank pulley offer no crank dampening and bearing life will suffer greatly as a result.Hondata wrote:The stock crank pulley has a rubber isolated inertia ring. Replacement crank pulleys don't.2xSI wrote:What is wrong with replacing the crank pulley??