LC-1 WIDEBAND TO S300

[fabiangt79]

Can someone give me some advise how to install a LC-1 to the S300?

I have read and tried the installation to the D10 ELD with the yellow wire of the LC-1 to it.

I wired the rest of it to as shown by Innovate LC-1 but my reading in the S300 is not correct.(Way out from my Gauge)

[Spunkster]

http://www.hondata.com/techplxwiring.html

It should be very silimar to the PLX, however, we only recommend using the PLX widebands.

[MugenFoo]

successfully using an Innovate LC-1 with S300J here.

I used D10-ELD. Readout is stable and the voltage offset i needed was "-0.1V" specific to my setup.

One funny observation though, if i used the stock O2 (D14 on the OBD-1 connector), the LC-1 goes haywire.

Somehow, with the LC-1 connected to the S300J's (donor ECU is a P30-9xx, JDM Auto tranny) O2 , the LC-1 gives erratic readouts. Do lemme know if you have similar problems with D14 ?

[Preyluda]

http://www.hondata.com/techplxwiring.html

we only recommend using the PLX widebands.

May I ask why this is? Are you more likely to have issue with the lc-1?

[Spunkster]

We have seen many users have issues with other brands of widebands.

[MugenFoo]

just to add on,
it seems that the Dynojet Wideband Commander has trouble feeding to the a JDM P30/300J's D10 ELD but has no trouble feeding into the stock O2 D14 input instead.

But then this arises another problem if you wanna run closed loop, coz the Dynojet WbC's output is fixed and non-programmable. So the voltage "slope" is reversed and Honda ECU's S.Trim will do a "runaway" trim until it just quits trimming.

In a nutshell:
Innovate LC-1 to D10 ELD: Kosher.
Innovate LC-1 to D14 O2: Bad.

Dynojet WbC to D14 O2: OK, if you can live without closed-loop.
Dynojet WbC to D10 ELD: Bad. the ECU just won't read any signal and keeps reporting 4.5V only in Smanager.

Observed only on JDM P30 ECUs. (the square box type).

[fabiangt79]

successfully using an Innovate LC-1 with S300J here.

I used D10-ELD. Readout is stable and the voltage offset i needed was "-0.1V" specific to my setup.

One funny observation though, if i used the stock O2 (D14 on the OBD-1 connector), the LC-1 goes haywire.

Somehow, with the LC-1 connected to the S300J's (donor ECU is a P30-9xx, JDM Auto tranny) O2 , the LC-1 gives erratic readouts. Do lemme know if you have similar problems with D14 ?

Hi,

Can tell me the steps just to make sure, i did go wrong anywhere?

My ECU is a P28 with S300.

[fabiangt79]

Hi MugenFoo,

Can tell me your steps of wiring the LC-1 to the ECU?What AF voltage conversions did you use?

[leoldenb]

I am having problems too getting the LC-1 to work with the the S300 just when i think it's close it will start reading goofy numbers.

Yes we all know HONDATA reccomends the PLX.

But not all of us want to run the same stuff and there are such a variety of widebands out there all we want to do is make it work.

Somebody needs to figure this out.

[scttydb411]

no probs w/ my techedge into d14. only had a slight difference in reading that was corrected by adjusting the offset.

when i want wideband datalogging i plug the wideband output into d14. when i'm not datalogging and just driving i plug the narrowband output into d14. simple and effective.

[MugenFoo]

this is what i did in Smanager v1.3.8 :
In the parameters -> Closed loop:
<table of 3 columns , 3 rows>
Voltage: 0, 5 ,5
A/F: 10, 18, 18


In LMProgrammer v3.22 :
I used also used the same for analog 1:
0 volts to 10 A/F,
5 volts to 18 A/F

I chose "18" so that i could have a higher resolution than going to "20" A/F but there should not be any issues either way.

[MugenFoo]

I am having problems too getting the LC-1 to work with the the S300 just when i think it's close it will start reading goofy numbers.

Yes we all know HONDATA reccomends the PLX.

But not all of us want to run the same stuff and there are such a variety of widebands out there all we want to do is make it work.

Somebody needs to figure this out.

Yup, i get goofy numbers too with i wire the LC-1 to the ECU's standard O2 input.

But the ELD input is best (in my case, which is a JDM P30 ECU) , maybe because it's expecting to see a 0~5V signal, and the LC-1 does just that.

One suggestion is to do trial and error with the LC-1's analog-out 1 and analog-out 2.

Could be some voltage input/output impedance issues here between LC-1 and the Honda ECU.

Again to stress, ELD worked fine for me, but it did not work for my friend's Dynojet WBC, which in turn worked fine with the P30's O2 input (which in turn does not work for me). We're both on JDM P30/S300J ECUs and spent a whole day figuring out what worked with what and what doesn't.
8)

[fabiangt79]

this is what i did in Smanager v1.3.8 :
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this is what i did in Smanager v1.3.8 :
In the parameters -> Closed loop:
<table of 3 columns , 3 rows>
Voltage: 0, 5 ,5
A/F: 10, 18, 18


In LMProgrammer v3.22 :
I used also used the same for analog 1:
0 volts to 10 A/F,
5 volts to 18 A/F

I chose "18" so that i could have a higher resolution than going to "20" A/F but there should not be any issues either way.

Hi,

Mugen Foo, what about your LC-1 wiring?

[ReDemoN]

Here is my ?

Do you just completly clip the ELD wire?
Like it wont be hooked to anything
And then wire the wideband to the wire that goes into the computer.
And then go into smanager and disable the ELD correct.
I have a AEM W/B

[laziebun]

It should not be the yellow wire from the LC-1 that connects to the D10 ELD it should be the Brown wire.

The brown wire should not be tap into the D10 wire. The D10 wire should be completly cut inhalf and the brown wire attach to the end of the wire that goes into the ecu.

You also need to cut i think its R12 and R18 resistors in the ecu, so you wont get a voltage offset. But double check some where on this forum to make sure its R12 and R18. Let me know how it works out or AIM me (laziebun) for any other questions. GL!!