I'm running an Inline Pro turbo kit, with a GT3076r, 675cc injectors, 3mm headgasket plus other stuff ... I'm a previous owner of an AEM EMS but decided to swap over to the Hondata due to emissions.
The car runs great, but I'm having issues with overheating (or apparent overheating). I have bled the system several times, and I'm also running a few cooling mods (Hondata intake manifold gasket, Koyo radiator, Spoon radiator cap, and Samco radiator hoses.) The temperature gauge seems to be quite erratic. When I start up the car (cold start after a night sitting), the temperature gauge will read 5 bars, and then go down to 1 bar after about 15 seconds. It will then warm up normally up to 3 bars. This is where it becomes erratic at times. (I'll be in normal morning traffic and bit of stop and go) The Temperature bar will then jump up to 4 bars, the CEL light will come on for a bit, and then it'll go back down to 3 bars, and the CEL light will go out. Occasionally it'll go up to 5, 6 or even 7 bars and then just drop right back to normal temperature (3 bars). When I haven't been in 'so called' stop and go traffic, and I'm in constant moving with the occasional stop here and there, the temperature bar stays at 3 bars. (I went on an hour and a half drive over the weekend, and it stayed at 3 bars the whole time)
From what I remember off the top of my head is that the overheating temperature is set to 224degrees. I know the S2000 is able to run at temperatures of 230degrees without any issues in hot climate areas.
I also had to swap out a few sensors as the Hondata gurus will know about. Is it possible that the sensors I swapped out are too sensitive and/or defective?
I've also read that: The S2000 dash water temperature display functions as per normal. For an AP1 the second segment normally lights at 145 degrees F, and the third at 165 degrees F. from the Hondata site.
Is there any way I can go through the software/map and verify this?
Any help will be appreciated.
K-pro for 2003 S2000
Is this an AP1 or AP2?
On a cold start the gauge going to full and then going back to down to one bar is normal (well, our test S2000 with stock ECU did the same thing).
Otherwise it sounds like the temperature output to the gauge is just higher than normal. One note - the stock AP1 gauge had a huge null point between the 3rd and 4th bars - 165 to 235 degrees I think.
Datalog the ECT in KManager and see what the real temperature is first.
On a cold start the gauge going to full and then going back to down to one bar is normal (well, our test S2000 with stock ECU did the same thing).
Otherwise it sounds like the temperature output to the gauge is just higher than normal. One note - the stock AP1 gauge had a huge null point between the 3rd and 4th bars - 165 to 235 degrees I think.
Datalog the ECT in KManager and see what the real temperature is first.
Hondata
So I tried to datalog it on the way to work this morning. Don't think I did it right.
I connected the laptop, pulled open the readouts table with the EGT, IAT, revs, and so forth. It was reading all of it and then I clicked on the red dot. After that, I have no idea?
I connected the laptop, pulled open the readouts table with the EGT, IAT, revs, and so forth. It was reading all of it and then I clicked on the red dot. After that, I have no idea?
Last edited by papa5murf on Tue Apr 22, 2008 4:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I would not expect to see 230 degrees unless there was a pressure loss in the cooling system - but the first step is to establish the temperature of the engine, then decisions about what is wrong come next.
The red dot will start recording. What you then need to do is to save the recording once done. Or you could add the ECT to the display window and make it big enough to see while driving.
The red dot will start recording. What you then need to do is to save the recording once done. Or you could add the ECT to the display window and make it big enough to see while driving.
Hondata
Ok, so here we go.
Yesterday on my way home, I set everything up and got the ECT readings on the screen. Basically my commute in the afternoon consists of regular driving through normal traffic (35/45/55mph) with an occasional red light stop where I'm sitting for about 3-5 minutes, and a little bit of stop and go traffic. The temperature was always in the range of 197-202 degrees. It peaked at one point at 207 degrees, and the lowest point (once warmed up) was at 192 degrees. Once I got home, I let the car sit, running for about 10 minutes, and the temperature never got above 205 degrees.
Now this morning, I did some more readings on my commute to work. My commute to work consists of about 2 minutes driving around 45mph (during which time, the car is still warming up to normal temperatures), then followed by flowing traffic at 35/25mph, and a stop light or two. At which point the temperature starts to go up and up reaching around 210 degrees. This is followed by pretty heavy stop and go traffic and the temperature continues to increase, hitting 227 and then 231 (and fluctuating back and forth between those two temperatures). And then all the sudden it peaks at 242 degrees :shock: for about 10 seconds, and then immediately drops down to 231 degrees where it again continues to fluctuate from around 224-231 degrees. It continues to stay around these temperatures till I get a good run of constant movement where it then begins to fall again, back to normal 197-202 degrees. The check engine light seems to first flash on around the same area every morning. About 5-10 minutes into the commute and shut off around the same area as well.
Yesterday on my way home, I set everything up and got the ECT readings on the screen. Basically my commute in the afternoon consists of regular driving through normal traffic (35/45/55mph) with an occasional red light stop where I'm sitting for about 3-5 minutes, and a little bit of stop and go traffic. The temperature was always in the range of 197-202 degrees. It peaked at one point at 207 degrees, and the lowest point (once warmed up) was at 192 degrees. Once I got home, I let the car sit, running for about 10 minutes, and the temperature never got above 205 degrees.
Now this morning, I did some more readings on my commute to work. My commute to work consists of about 2 minutes driving around 45mph (during which time, the car is still warming up to normal temperatures), then followed by flowing traffic at 35/25mph, and a stop light or two. At which point the temperature starts to go up and up reaching around 210 degrees. This is followed by pretty heavy stop and go traffic and the temperature continues to increase, hitting 227 and then 231 (and fluctuating back and forth between those two temperatures). And then all the sudden it peaks at 242 degrees :shock: for about 10 seconds, and then immediately drops down to 231 degrees where it again continues to fluctuate from around 224-231 degrees. It continues to stay around these temperatures till I get a good run of constant movement where it then begins to fall again, back to normal 197-202 degrees. The check engine light seems to first flash on around the same area every morning. About 5-10 minutes into the commute and shut off around the same area as well.
From this I would say that the ECU and dash are both showing the correct temperature. The only thing worth checking is the ECT sensor itself, but I've never seen one go bad.
The quick spike to 240 is probably from steam formation in the cylinder head. A pressure test is a good idea - you can get a rough idea just from squeezing the radiator hoses when the engine is really hot. Also check that the radiator fan is functioning - it should start around 205 degrees.
The quick spike to 240 is probably from steam formation in the cylinder head. A pressure test is a good idea - you can get a rough idea just from squeezing the radiator hoses when the engine is really hot. Also check that the radiator fan is functioning - it should start around 205 degrees.
Hondata
My map has the fan set to 202 degrees.
On that note, the fans do turn on when that degree is reached (it seemed to actually come on when the temperature reached 204 degrees). I also squeezed the radiator hoses when it was hot, and there was a give in it. Not sure how it's supposed to be or what that means.
On that note, the fans do turn on when that degree is reached (it seemed to actually come on when the temperature reached 204 degrees). I also squeezed the radiator hoses when it was hot, and there was a give in it. Not sure how it's supposed to be or what that means.
if the fan is set that low , than obviously it cant keep up to the task at hand. id bleed your coolant system if i were you , maybe throw a new thermostat in it.
when cold , take rad cap off , start the engine. let it run while keeping the rad topped up full the whole time. gently squeeze bottom rad hose to help air bubbles out. once it is up to running temp on the gauge(preferably till the bottom hose gets hot and rad fan come on once) , throw the rad cap back on it and away you go.
when cold , take rad cap off , start the engine. let it run while keeping the rad topped up full the whole time. gently squeeze bottom rad hose to help air bubbles out. once it is up to running temp on the gauge(preferably till the bottom hose gets hot and rad fan come on once) , throw the rad cap back on it and away you go.
^ I've already bleed the system several times. I'm pretty certain that is not the issue currently. I did have a problem with it about 3 weeks ago, I actually had a leak on the coolant line to the turbo which was dripping. I fixed that and re-bleed the system and it was good to go.
What I'm worried about is that I might have damaged my headgasket...? I did throw a few miss-fires (1,2,4, random) about a month ago because my coilpacks failed. I replaced the coilpacks and it's been good since (no miss-fires).
What I'm worried about is that I might have damaged my headgasket...? I did throw a few miss-fires (1,2,4, random) about a month ago because my coilpacks failed. I replaced the coilpacks and it's been good since (no miss-fires).
