PROBLEM SOLVED - See post #9 below.
So, I have a Hondata S300 and an Innovate LC1 WB02 and am doing partial throttle street tuning right now in Open Loop.
THE DETAILS
The LC1 has a narrowband replacement wire that I have wired to my ECU.
The narrowband wire outputs 1 Volt = 14 AFR and 0 Volt = 15.4 AFR, where Stoich equals .51 Volts.
I have set the closed-loop target voltage to .51 Volts.
I have the wideband wire spliced to hooked up to both my ECU and the Guage it came with.
THE PROBLEM
In open-loop at idle and low load I can get the AF's damn near perfect. However, if I switch to closed loop, it leans out to like 15.5 to 16 AF. Also, in Smanager, when looking at the O2 voltage in the sensors window, the voltage hovers just below .9 volts and never really goes near or below .51 volts where it should.
WHY???? Please help.
Going Lean in Closed-Loop (S300 & LC1) - Resolved
Going Lean in Closed-Loop (S300 & LC1) - Resolved
Last edited by peasly23 on Tue Nov 06, 2007 5:29 pm, edited 2 times in total.
I programmed my Narrowband output to look EXACTLY like that graph. Hence, I wouldn't think there would be a problem.
[edit] I contacted PLX and they gave me the following information. This graph is a ROUGH idea of the voltages it outputs.
The EXACT voltage output is as follows:
1V = 14.0 AFR
0V = 15.4 AFR
Thus making stoich = .50 volts.
[edit] I contacted PLX and they gave me the following information. This graph is a ROUGH idea of the voltages it outputs.
The EXACT voltage output is as follows:
1V = 14.0 AFR
0V = 15.4 AFR
Thus making stoich = .50 volts.
Last edited by peasly23 on Mon Nov 05, 2007 7:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Had exact same problem, look for one of my posts, basically if you want to run in closed loop you need to tune these parts of the table whilst in closed loop, personally i found the best way to do this is to set your short term adjustments to Zero thereby stopping the ecu from trimming from the narrow band, tune the map, then once happy put these values back in
heres one of my posts sounds like what you are experiancing
http://www.hondata.net/forum/viewtopic. ... 4525#24525
Hope that helps
WEST
heres one of my posts sounds like what you are experiancing
http://www.hondata.net/forum/viewtopic. ... 4525#24525
Hope that helps
WEST
Its Small, Its Red, Its Mid engined, It has a B18 fitted, 250hp+per tonne + nitrous
You will have to retune all the columns effected by closed loop, for myself any columns up to 650 mbar [absolute] [upto column 5] with how i have mine setup, and i suggest to check the open loop areas, no harm in checking, and double checking your map hence why i run a plx r500 all the time now.peasly23 wrote:I looked at your post.WTF??? Nowhere does it say that!! Do you think I should have to redo all my tuning in closed loop now? WTF!spunkster wrote:You should be tuning with the car in closed loop
What values are you referring to when you say this...then once happy put these values back in
Set your minimum and maximum short term adjustments to zero for tunning, then once finished set the short term values back to your chosen/base map values, i used -15%[minimum] and 47%[maximum] as these are the values from the base maps supplied by hondata. and target voltage 0.49.
then worth checking whilst driving around your not getting huge short or long term trimming still, datalogging helps massively here.
WEST
Its Small, Its Red, Its Mid engined, It has a B18 fitted, 250hp+per tonne + nitrous
Yeah, I retuned my low columns at closed-loop. Everything looks good now. I don't know if I want to put my S.Trim & L.Trim to such high values though, I mean, they are so close now, I'd hate to have the computer adjust them too far off.
It's running good now though. The only thing is when the engine is still cold my car runs pig rich so I gotta figure out ALL the fuel compensation crap. It's so hard, so many variables. Closed-loop, open-loop, high-temp, low-temp, high load, low load. I can't make heads or tails of what I should be changing first or by how much. Arrghhh!
Thanks for helping with the other thing btw.
It's running good now though. The only thing is when the engine is still cold my car runs pig rich so I gotta figure out ALL the fuel compensation crap. It's so hard, so many variables. Closed-loop, open-loop, high-temp, low-temp, high load, low load. I can't make heads or tails of what I should be changing first or by how much. Arrghhh!
Thanks for helping with the other thing btw.
I THINK I FOUND THE REAL ANSWER to why I was getting such a huge voltage offset... I traced all my wires and found out that my ELD was OUTPUTTING 4.35V. What the crap??? Then I looked at Hondata's help file and found this little ditty...
I have since changed my Wideband input from Pin D10 ELD, to my Analog Input 1 on Pin D12. Now everything matches up fine and NO MORE VOLTAGE OFFSET!!!! YAY!!!
I contacted Phearable.net and they confirmed that they didn't remove whatever this is and that was causing my problem.Smanager Help File wrote:Note that if the ELD input (D10) is used then R136 and R138 (US ECUs) may need to be removed.
I have since changed my Wideband input from Pin D10 ELD, to my Analog Input 1 on Pin D12. Now everything matches up fine and NO MORE VOLTAGE OFFSET!!!! YAY!!!
