aem uego w/s200
aem uego w/s200
Im boosting a single cam and wanted to know how if there was a way to hook a aem wideband to the guage and ecu for when i log. And if someone has done this could you give me some direction? I have also been told you have to change the values that the guage reads in? I am totally lost anything would help me out. Thanks.
http://www.hondata.com/techplxwiring.html
The wiring should be similar. You will have to look at the instructions that came with the AEM gauge to set it correctly.
The wiring should be similar. You will have to look at the instructions that came with the AEM gauge to set it correctly.
That there AEM gauge-type wideband
Hi There -
Hey look - my first post.
I hooked that AEM gauge up, and it works pretty good - it logs, auto-tunes, it's sweet.
Here's the basics -
1. Install the gauge. That means the o2 sensor (which you can screw into your existing bung on the exhaust pipe, or, have the extra bung welded on - which I'm thinking I shoulda done - you can always plug it when not in use - if you want to remove the wideband later (not a bad idea if your not actually tuning and your engine has miles on it) you could go to autozone & buy an oil pan drain plug - it's the same size...), mount the gauge, run the sensor cable thru the firewall, run the power and ground wires from the gauge, etc... Anyway....
There'll be 2 wires left - one for serial data (optional), and the output (I think it's the white one...)
I recommend removing the stock O2 probe from it's connector too(I think it may still have power applied to the connector...), and then "bag" the connector in the engine bay to keep dirt out.
If it's all hooked up right, you can start the car and watch the gauge indicate AFR / lambda - WoooHooo. If you only are gonna use it for dyno tuning, you could stop right there, if you want. You don't really need a computer for it (since it has the nice big display) and that's all you need - but if you want to log, autotune, etc. then you got to interface it with the ECU. If you are prepared to cut wires in your harness, then proceed at yer own risk...>
2. Find the O2 Sensor wire going into the ECU - not sure which that is for yer motor... and then your going to cut it. I'd cut it as far from the ECU as possible - and "bag and tag" the stock wire for later use. If you cut it far enough up, you won't have to remove the ECU and all that plastic wire protector crap that mine had - you can just swap it back easier.
3. Now you have to enter the conversion data for this probe - open up Hondalogger, click " FILE... SETTINGS..... and then click the LAMBDA tab.
Under Lambda units, you can pick either Lambda or AFR - depending on which version of the gauge you got - I got the Lambda one... then, click on EDIT CONVERSION TABLE. On the QUICK SELECT pulldown, click CUSTOM. Now, you get to enter values. The AEM unit came with a table that shows output voltage vs. Lambda/AFR. I think that a previous post on this subject said "put in as many values as possible.." -- but I only use 2 - the max and the min - the logger will do the math for any points in between, I'm guessing. (Hey - it's what I do - I guess)
Sorry, but I don't have my numbers in front of me - I can reply later if you are interested - but that's about it - you hit CLOSE... OK... and then you can go to next step.
4. Check the results - start the car, and start Hondalogger. the Lambda displayed on the "dash" should track up and down when you give it gas a little, like the number on the gauge. Tip - you might want to go "OPEN LOOP" for this, otherwise the AFR will oscillate up and down on it's own.
Now, let it idle, and look where the number sits - my guess is that the gauge (which we can assume is correct - isn't that what we bought it for anyway ?) will be different from the Hondalogger value. This is most likely because of a "ground loop" condition (no big deal, really) which is a slight difference in the voltage on the gauge's ground from the voltage on the ECU's ground. (Mine is actually off by almost .5 of a volt...)
Anyway, long story - go back into the settings and tweak it. I start by adjusting the lower number first by actually tweaking the fuel using Romeditor. Add fuel until the gauge reads all the way rich, then adjust the hondata settings again until the displayed Hondalogger value matches the gauge value.
When the "rich" points match, then you can tweak the fuel back to stochastic ratio (1.0 Lambda / 14.5 ? I forget what the number is for AFR)
and check how the numbers compare. Adjust the LEAN value in the settings this time to get the Hondalogger value correct. I don't recommend running her too lean for any length of time - that's bad. Plus, you dont need to. Just a little lean is ok.
That's about it.
I got a cool picture of my gauge, but I don't know how to put it in here. I think I gotta turn HTML on.....
Peace and chicken grease
Hey look - my first post.
I hooked that AEM gauge up, and it works pretty good - it logs, auto-tunes, it's sweet.
Here's the basics -
1. Install the gauge. That means the o2 sensor (which you can screw into your existing bung on the exhaust pipe, or, have the extra bung welded on - which I'm thinking I shoulda done - you can always plug it when not in use - if you want to remove the wideband later (not a bad idea if your not actually tuning and your engine has miles on it) you could go to autozone & buy an oil pan drain plug - it's the same size...), mount the gauge, run the sensor cable thru the firewall, run the power and ground wires from the gauge, etc... Anyway....
There'll be 2 wires left - one for serial data (optional), and the output (I think it's the white one...)
I recommend removing the stock O2 probe from it's connector too(I think it may still have power applied to the connector...), and then "bag" the connector in the engine bay to keep dirt out.
If it's all hooked up right, you can start the car and watch the gauge indicate AFR / lambda - WoooHooo. If you only are gonna use it for dyno tuning, you could stop right there, if you want. You don't really need a computer for it (since it has the nice big display) and that's all you need - but if you want to log, autotune, etc. then you got to interface it with the ECU. If you are prepared to cut wires in your harness, then proceed at yer own risk...>
2. Find the O2 Sensor wire going into the ECU - not sure which that is for yer motor... and then your going to cut it. I'd cut it as far from the ECU as possible - and "bag and tag" the stock wire for later use. If you cut it far enough up, you won't have to remove the ECU and all that plastic wire protector crap that mine had - you can just swap it back easier.
3. Now you have to enter the conversion data for this probe - open up Hondalogger, click " FILE... SETTINGS..... and then click the LAMBDA tab.
Under Lambda units, you can pick either Lambda or AFR - depending on which version of the gauge you got - I got the Lambda one... then, click on EDIT CONVERSION TABLE. On the QUICK SELECT pulldown, click CUSTOM. Now, you get to enter values. The AEM unit came with a table that shows output voltage vs. Lambda/AFR. I think that a previous post on this subject said "put in as many values as possible.." -- but I only use 2 - the max and the min - the logger will do the math for any points in between, I'm guessing. (Hey - it's what I do - I guess)
Sorry, but I don't have my numbers in front of me - I can reply later if you are interested - but that's about it - you hit CLOSE... OK... and then you can go to next step.
4. Check the results - start the car, and start Hondalogger. the Lambda displayed on the "dash" should track up and down when you give it gas a little, like the number on the gauge. Tip - you might want to go "OPEN LOOP" for this, otherwise the AFR will oscillate up and down on it's own.
Now, let it idle, and look where the number sits - my guess is that the gauge (which we can assume is correct - isn't that what we bought it for anyway ?) will be different from the Hondalogger value. This is most likely because of a "ground loop" condition (no big deal, really) which is a slight difference in the voltage on the gauge's ground from the voltage on the ECU's ground. (Mine is actually off by almost .5 of a volt...)
Anyway, long story - go back into the settings and tweak it. I start by adjusting the lower number first by actually tweaking the fuel using Romeditor. Add fuel until the gauge reads all the way rich, then adjust the hondata settings again until the displayed Hondalogger value matches the gauge value.
When the "rich" points match, then you can tweak the fuel back to stochastic ratio (1.0 Lambda / 14.5 ? I forget what the number is for AFR)
and check how the numbers compare. Adjust the LEAN value in the settings this time to get the Hondalogger value correct. I don't recommend running her too lean for any length of time - that's bad. Plus, you dont need to. Just a little lean is ok.
That's about it.
I got a cool picture of my gauge, but I don't know how to put it in here. I think I gotta turn HTML on.....
Peace and chicken grease