Any idea which pins I should use to measure the cranking voltage? Thanks!Spunkster wrote:At the ecu plugs. In Kmanager go to help, contents, under reference you will find the ecu pinout.
CEL's on, Can't datalog, 4000rpm limp mode----please help
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Last edited by Toto on Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Flustration will never go away with K-Pro!
I have just redone all my groundings and changed to a new battery, just hoping the CEL will go away. But IT IS STILL THERE!
I figured out there was 80% of the time the CEL was on after starting the car. So the CEL is not always on.
After driving for about 5-10 mins, the CEL will always be flicking off for a few seconds and back on again. If I restart the car after the flicking, the CEL will NOT be on anymore.
Anybody here, please let me know what I can do before sending my ECU back to Hondata. HELP IS NEEDED!!!!!!
I have just redone all my groundings and changed to a new battery, just hoping the CEL will go away. But IT IS STILL THERE!
I figured out there was 80% of the time the CEL was on after starting the car. So the CEL is not always on.
After driving for about 5-10 mins, the CEL will always be flicking off for a few seconds and back on again. If I restart the car after the flicking, the CEL will NOT be on anymore.
Anybody here, please let me know what I can do before sending my ECU back to Hondata. HELP IS NEEDED!!!!!!
who did you get the kpro from?
also, i doubt there's anything wrong with your car electrically, its probably either a bad ECU or bad Kpro, maybe a surface mount resistor got loose, who knows. you should contract the dealer/whoever you got the kpro from before sending it to hondata, they'll charge you $$$$$$$$$$$$$$
also, i doubt there's anything wrong with your car electrically, its probably either a bad ECU or bad Kpro, maybe a surface mount resistor got loose, who knows. you should contract the dealer/whoever you got the kpro from before sending it to hondata, they'll charge you $$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I cleared security and reloaded the calibration. I even reset the ECU by pulling the fuse. But nothing takes the CEL away.Spunkster wrote:After changing the battery, did you clear security and then upload a fresh calibration to see if the problem goes away?
There is clicking sound like the sound from a relay when the CEL flicks off and on. Is there a relay on the daughter board? Could this be caused by some kind of relay failures on the board?
I got my K-Pro from the authorized dealer in Buffalo. They ordered the daugther board from Hondata and installed it at their facility. I don't understand why I would have to be so flustrated for K-Pro directly from an authorized dealer.jopanet wrote:who did you get the kpro from?
also, i doubt there's anything wrong with your car electrically, its probably either a bad ECU or bad Kpro, maybe a surface mount resistor got loose, who knows. you should contract the dealer/whoever you got the kpro from before sending it to hondata, they'll charge you $$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I have spent over $1000 for a K-Pro which lasted NOT even 3 months before giving me the CEL. Another over $100 for a new battery for toubleshooting and no good reason. And now I may even get charged for more $$$$$$$ sending back to Hondata. How lucky I am!!!
I am extremely exhausted and up to a point that I don't want to deal with this anymore.
PLEASE SUGGEST SOMETHTING, ANYTHING I CAN DO!!!
There are no relays in the ecu or on the K-Pro board. Do you hear the clicking when trying to crank the car?
I would suggest trying your ecu in another vehicle by clearing security in their car and then uploading a new base calibration. If the problem goes away it will tell you that it is a problem in your vehicle and not the ECU.
I would suggest trying your ecu in another vehicle by clearing security in their car and then uploading a new base calibration. If the problem goes away it will tell you that it is a problem in your vehicle and not the ECU.
Does this mean that it is the alternator? I think the alternator should just work or not work. I have never heard a degradation on alternators. Plus it is the OEM alternator that came with the vehicle. What do you suggest me to check? Thanks!Hondata wrote:From your last datalog (several weeks ago), there is a problem with the charge system / battery. When graphed the voltage should be almost dead flat at 13.8 to 14.2V (depending on temperature).
Last edited by Toto on Thu Aug 23, 2007 1:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
How about some relays or switch connected to the ECU? There is always the clicking sound when uploading calibrations. It sounds very similar when the CEL flicking. No clicking when cranking though. Any ideas?Spunkster wrote:There are no relays in the ecu or on the K-Pro board. Do you hear the clicking when trying to crank the car?
I would suggest trying your ecu in another vehicle by clearing security in their car and then uploading a new base calibration. If the problem goes away it will tell you that it is a problem in your vehicle and not the ECU.
Also, there is no electrical tape on the ECU cover at the top of the USB port. I don't think it is required for the later version of K-Pro. Do I need to put one there? Or it is definitely not the problem?
I will try to see if I can try the ECU on another RSX. What exactly I should test when using the ECU on another RSX? Any special test? Thanks!
Anybody has any idea what high current output from the oxygen sensor heater on bank 2 is? I found this with the OBDII scanner. Where is the heater located and would this also affect the K-Pro dataloging? Thanks!
Oxygen sensor heater monitering - Electric current value of Sensor heater during turning heater on Bank 2 <--------- high current output
Oxygen sensor heater monitering - Electric current value of Sensor heater during turning heater on Bank 2 <--------- high current output
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