Will the ECU always detect a misalignment in cam timing and throw a P0341? ...is there any situation where it would not (such as either the exhaust or intake just being off by one cam gear tooth)?
Thanks,
-Brian
cam timing question
The ECU generally will generate an error code if the exhaust or intake is one tooth off, but I would not count on it. In any case the ECU can not determine if both cams are out by the same number of teeth in the same direction.
It is fairly simple to put a rod on #1 piston, rotate the engine to give TDC, and then check the arrows on the cam sensor wheels are in alignment with the parting line on #5 cam cap. This is a more accurate method than using the marks on the cam sprockets. Also check the pin in the intake cam sprocket is ok by attempting to rotate the intake cam against the sprocket.
It is fairly simple to put a rod on #1 piston, rotate the engine to give TDC, and then check the arrows on the cam sensor wheels are in alignment with the parting line on #5 cam cap. This is a more accurate method than using the marks on the cam sprockets. Also check the pin in the intake cam sprocket is ok by attempting to rotate the intake cam against the sprocket.
Hondata
Alright, the reason I ask is that my hash marks werent even close to lining up with the dots 9 teeth apart. When I thought that maybe thats just how it is, I put it together and started the car, and it threw a P0341, like expected. However, with the dots 8.5 links apart, there is no code and the car runs fine. Apparently im not limiting my cam advance either, because it will hit both 0 degrees and 50 degrees without a problem. Should I assume that the motor is correctly timed then?
Thanks in advance,
-Brian
Thanks in advance,
-Brian
My motor is a k20....and I used rsxmachine's writeup on k-series.comRazathorn wrote:The documentation / process is slightly different for a k24 vs a k20. This is a k20 isn't it? Are you sure you're not referring to k24 thread or document when installing the chain?park83rsx wrote:any thoughts on this?
Might be time to post a picture of the '8.5' links?park83rsx wrote:My motor is a k20....and I used rsxmachine's writeup on k-series.comRazathorn wrote:The documentation / process is slightly different for a k24 vs a k20. This is a k20 isn't it? Are you sure you're not referring to k24 thread or document when installing the chain?park83rsx wrote:any thoughts on this?
2003 black RSX type-s / jrsc @ 12psi / methanol injection / aftercooled
Razathorn wrote:Might be time to post a picture of the '8.5' links?park83rsx wrote:My motor is a k20....and I used rsxmachine's writeup on k-series.comRazathorn wrote: The documentation / process is slightly different for a k24 vs a k20. This is a k20 isn't it? Are you sure you're not referring to k24 thread or document when installing the chain?
I would, I just dont have time to pull the valve cover until the weekend at least.
can you provide a picture of this to help clarify - I am having some problems I think you know aboutHondata wrote:The ECU generally will generate an error code if the exhaust or intake is one tooth off, but I would not count on it. In any case the ECU can not determine if both cams are out by the same number of teeth in the same direction.
It is fairly simple to put a rod on #1 piston, rotate the engine to give TDC, and then check the arrows on the cam sensor wheels are in alignment with the parting line on #5 cam cap. This is a more accurate method than using the marks on the cam sprockets. Also check the pin in the intake cam sprocket is ok by attempting to rotate the intake cam against the sprocket.
At TDC the arrows on the cams (#1 of the exhaust, #4 on the intake) should be in alignment with the parting line on the cam cap (outlined in blue in the photo).
In this picture the exhaust appears advanced and the intake appears retarded (but then we don't know if the engine is at TDC, and th camera is not in line with the cams).
In this picture the exhaust appears advanced and the intake appears retarded (but then we don't know if the engine is at TDC, and th camera is not in line with the cams).
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Hondata
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talonxracer
- Posts: 26
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I know for a fact that you can have the timing chain a half link(one tooth) off on the bottom crank sprocket, the crank pulley looks to be almost at TDC, and the hash marks almost line up, with 9 links between dots(master Honda tech said it was due to thinner Mugen HG and not the chain being off at the bottom causing the misalignment) The car ran fine and made decent power, very drivable and threw no codes what-so-ever.
I discovered the mistake 4 months and 8000 miles later when doing a valve adjustment and couldnt match this pic... (not the colored links of course)
NOTICE the red arrow in the illustration, this is how you can tell if the chain is on the correct sprocket tooth on the crank sprocket, does the chain case edge bisect a outer link, correctly, or not.
Just a little tid-bit of info that will help when setting the cam timing without pulling the chain case.
Doug
I discovered the mistake 4 months and 8000 miles later when doing a valve adjustment and couldnt match this pic... (not the colored links of course)
NOTICE the red arrow in the illustration, this is how you can tell if the chain is on the correct sprocket tooth on the crank sprocket, does the chain case edge bisect a outer link, correctly, or not.
Just a little tid-bit of info that will help when setting the cam timing without pulling the chain case.
Doug
doug this question was just presented to me - I would feel better if you answer than I attempt to :lol:
edit - i think i answered my own question looking at helms manual... you can release the lock with compressed air when cam is out of motor. with motor running it needs oil pressureRazathorn wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong here, but the vtc gear on the intake on the other side could advance/retard that other side that you're using the arrows for by as much as 25 degrees -- right?