Annoying problem (please help me)
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la_pieuvre
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 10:26 am
- Location: Dallas, TX
Annoying problem (please help me)
Before I begin, here is my setup:
98 Civic EX (D16Y8) with JR Supercharger (7psi), Hondata S300, RC 440s, Walbro FP, AEM CAI, Koyo racing radiator (with new hoses), one Oxygen sensor (factory one) on header, 120k miles on car + motor, hi-flow cat + exhaust.
I've got this annoying thing happening with my car. I'll be driving and all of a sudden, the CEL comes on and the car runs rough, without letting me rev over 3k. I feels like it sputters and smells like it's dumping fuel (smell it from the exhaust). It runs crappy when that happens. There is also a whirring noise coming from the intake pipe/radiator area. It's like the engine goes into some sort of "fail-safe" mode by preventing me to rev above 3k. If I drive on it a little (as in to get off the road, and onto a residential street of something) and turn it off, it sometimes fixes it. If not, I have to wait a little while, and turn it back on to fix it.
I doesn't do it all the time, only once or twice a week. It doesn't matter whether the car is already warmed up or not. It has happened right after starting, and also after a period of driving.
Here's what I've ruled out (feel free to correct me)
1) I've replaced the MAP sensor thinking that would fix it, but it didn't.
2) I've ruled out bad gas just because, I've filled up at different gas stations with premium over the last 2 months. It also doesn't matter whether the tank is low, full or half full, etc...
3) New distributor cap and rotor. New plugs (gaped properly). New wires. New timing belt/water pump.
4) Coolant level is where it should be.
5) Check oil for milky texture, and coolant in radiator for bubbles... nothing of the sort.
I did just notice a coolant leak from the heater hoses. I am fixing it today or tomorrow, but I doubt it has anything to do with it.
Problem is, when I run the datalogging on the ECU through my laptop, the CEL doesn't appear in the software.
I'm getting really annoyed because I can't figure it out. The problem is, it doesn't happen everyday, so having somebody else look at it is hard. If it was a constant thing, I could get help.
What am I forgetting to check? I'm sure it's an issue somebody on this board has experienced before.
So, to sum up:
CEL comes on while driving.
Engine bogs/sputters and won't rev past 3k.
Dumps fuel.
Whirring noise from engine bay.
Eventually goes away for a few days.
I've been told it could be a bad socketing job in the ECU. Does that sound right?
HELP!
PS. I bought the ECU from Jackson Racing.
Thanks in advance for your replies, and sorry for the long post.
98 Civic EX (D16Y8) with JR Supercharger (7psi), Hondata S300, RC 440s, Walbro FP, AEM CAI, Koyo racing radiator (with new hoses), one Oxygen sensor (factory one) on header, 120k miles on car + motor, hi-flow cat + exhaust.
I've got this annoying thing happening with my car. I'll be driving and all of a sudden, the CEL comes on and the car runs rough, without letting me rev over 3k. I feels like it sputters and smells like it's dumping fuel (smell it from the exhaust). It runs crappy when that happens. There is also a whirring noise coming from the intake pipe/radiator area. It's like the engine goes into some sort of "fail-safe" mode by preventing me to rev above 3k. If I drive on it a little (as in to get off the road, and onto a residential street of something) and turn it off, it sometimes fixes it. If not, I have to wait a little while, and turn it back on to fix it.
I doesn't do it all the time, only once or twice a week. It doesn't matter whether the car is already warmed up or not. It has happened right after starting, and also after a period of driving.
Here's what I've ruled out (feel free to correct me)
1) I've replaced the MAP sensor thinking that would fix it, but it didn't.
2) I've ruled out bad gas just because, I've filled up at different gas stations with premium over the last 2 months. It also doesn't matter whether the tank is low, full or half full, etc...
3) New distributor cap and rotor. New plugs (gaped properly). New wires. New timing belt/water pump.
4) Coolant level is where it should be.
5) Check oil for milky texture, and coolant in radiator for bubbles... nothing of the sort.
I did just notice a coolant leak from the heater hoses. I am fixing it today or tomorrow, but I doubt it has anything to do with it.
Problem is, when I run the datalogging on the ECU through my laptop, the CEL doesn't appear in the software.
I'm getting really annoyed because I can't figure it out. The problem is, it doesn't happen everyday, so having somebody else look at it is hard. If it was a constant thing, I could get help.
What am I forgetting to check? I'm sure it's an issue somebody on this board has experienced before.
So, to sum up:
CEL comes on while driving.
Engine bogs/sputters and won't rev past 3k.
Dumps fuel.
Whirring noise from engine bay.
Eventually goes away for a few days.
I've been told it could be a bad socketing job in the ECU. Does that sound right?
HELP!
PS. I bought the ECU from Jackson Racing.
Thanks in advance for your replies, and sorry for the long post.
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QUICKSILVER RACING
- Posts: 310
- Joined: Fri Aug 16, 2002 10:45 pm
- Location: PHILIPPINES
- Contact:
-
la_pieuvre
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 10:26 am
- Location: Dallas, TX
Thanks for the reply.
Now my next question is, is there a contact list for people in the Dallas, TX area that are authorized Hondata techs?
:EDIT: Well, apparently the local Hondata dealers say that they won't touch it and that I should send it to Hondata.
I just called Hondata and they want me to bring it to a dealer to diagnose it.
Problem is, when the problem happens, I could be anywhere, and getting to a dealer within their business hours is impossible. As I can't replicate the problem, it makes it that much more fun.
so right now I'm going in circles... any other ideas?
Now my next question is, is there a contact list for people in the Dallas, TX area that are authorized Hondata techs?
:EDIT: Well, apparently the local Hondata dealers say that they won't touch it and that I should send it to Hondata.
I just called Hondata and they want me to bring it to a dealer to diagnose it.
Problem is, when the problem happens, I could be anywhere, and getting to a dealer within their business hours is impossible. As I can't replicate the problem, it makes it that much more fun.
so right now I'm going in circles... any other ideas?
An intermittent problem like this sounds more like wiring. A revlimit at 3000 RPM is usually a sensor such as CYP, CYL or CKP. All located in the distributor. Socketing problems would have a rev limit of 4000 since the ecu will be in limp mode. Try moving the ecu around while the car is idling and see if the problem occurs. You could also have a bad ground in the engine bay...the thermostat housing is the most important ground.
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la_pieuvre
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 10:26 am
- Location: Dallas, TX
Thanks spunkster, I'll look at the wiring as well. Come to think of it, it does rev past 3k but definitely not past 4k.Spunkster wrote:An intermittent problem like this sounds more like wiring. A revlimit at 3000 RPM is usually a sensor such as CYP, CYL or CKP. All located in the distributor. Socketing problems would have a rev limit of 4000 since the ecu will be in limp mode. Try moving the ecu around while the car is idling and see if the problem occurs. You could also have a bad ground in the engine bay...the thermostat housing is the most important ground.
I just didn't want to force it.
I'll keep you guys updated. If not, the guys at Intercrew will have a look at it.
Thank you
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la_pieuvre
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 10:26 am
- Location: Dallas, TX
Okay, so it happened again on my drive home from work tonight. And just to see, I tried to rev as high up as it'll go. And 4000 RPM is the limit. I hadn't tried to go any higher than 3k before as it doesn't make it any better and I didn't want to risk damaging something.Spunkster wrote:An intermittent problem like this sounds more like wiring. A revlimit at 3000 RPM is usually a sensor such as CYP, CYL or CKP. All located in the distributor. Socketing problems would have a rev limit of 4000 since the ecu will be in limp mode. Try moving the ecu around while the car is idling and see if the problem occurs. You could also have a bad ground in the engine bay...the thermostat housing is the most important ground.
So, it's not looking good for the socketing apparently. I'll wait for the engine to cool and check the grounds and wiring anyway.
Oh yeah, before the whole thing happened again tonight, the CEL briefly blinked on/off a few times.
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scttydb411
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Sun Jul 23, 2006 11:10 am
i didn't see anywhere in your post that you've actually jumped the svc connector to see what the cel is (you just said it doesn't show up in the datalog...wierd).
jump the svc connector the next time it happens and see what code. if it's solid cel after being jumped it could be bad solder/socket job or ecu. if it gives you a code, look at that sensor and it's wiring first.
do what spunkster said by moving the ecu around to see if a wiring issue shows then. it may be as simple as fixing a bad/broken wire or connector.
jump the svc connector the next time it happens and see what code. if it's solid cel after being jumped it could be bad solder/socket job or ecu. if it gives you a code, look at that sensor and it's wiring first.
do what spunkster said by moving the ecu around to see if a wiring issue shows then. it may be as simple as fixing a bad/broken wire or connector.
HONDATA DEALER/TUNING IN ATLANTA!!
DIGITALBOXTUNING
678-614-3596
DIGITALBOXTUNING
678-614-3596
I have the same problem!!!! Im running a 00 Civic Si w/ the JR 11psi kit (8psi pulley installed). The rest of the car has almost the same set up as you. I installed this kit on this car for a customer. I have checked and rechecked everything. NO PROBLEMS FOUND!!!!!!!!! Also replaced MAP & CTS. I whatched the CPT signal w/ a Snap-On Vantage. NO PROBLEM FOUND!!!!!!!! The computer was sent back to JR same problem w/ new computer. Had new computer checked by someone other JR said all connections and solder joints looked good. If you cycle the key off let the engine die then restart the car 99% of the time the light goes off and its back to running normal, the other 1% you have to cycle it 2 or three times before the cel goes off. There are NEVER any codes in the computer.
I'm having the same problem too. I have pretty much the same set up as you. I've gotten the car tuned, checked and pretty much everything you can think of. I do live in a colder climate during the winter months, but i have ruled that out. This problem has occured since Nov. I do get a red LED on the ecu and the check engine light comes on, but no codes show up on SManager. So i'm at a lose here. I've also talked to the local dealer here and they don't know what the problem is. I haven't suggested that they take a look at the internals, but i'm not sure that they will.
My setup is a 2000 Civic SiR with the high boost kit from Jackson Racing with the 6 psi pulley installed.
My setup is a 2000 Civic SiR with the high boost kit from Jackson Racing with the 6 psi pulley installed.
Your dealer will have to use substition in order to determine where the problem is. They may also need to check inside the ecu to make sure nothing has been damaged or has come loose.
Having less than a half tank of fuel and the car not starting properly will not be a problem with the Hondata system. You may want to double check to make sure that the purge is inverted under misc in parameters. THis will not however cause an error code.
Having less than a half tank of fuel and the car not starting properly will not be a problem with the Hondata system. You may want to double check to make sure that the purge is inverted under misc in parameters. THis will not however cause an error code.