Stalling all the time.

Questions / support for the K-Series ECU re-flash
Plasma69
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:55 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada

Stalling all the time.

Post by Plasma69 »

Here is the problem. same email i sent Hondata... oh boy this sux... but i've loved my Hondata #4 since day one, still do, just need to get this fixed.

Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada (Speedtech in calgary did the swap for me)
Car model/year: 2003 Acura RSX Type S
Engine type: K20a2 (i think)
ECU number: can't seem to find it.. sorry, if i find it, i'll reply right away.
Mods: Grounding wires, Injen CAI and of course Hondata #4 reflash. thats it.

Ok. to the bad problem. I keep getting a CEL on and off. my gas mileage blows goats, and the worst, is that the car keeps stalling even when the CEL goes off.

Symptoms:
Car stalls if its not idling for more than 3-5 mins on start up. I have to idle the car for 5 mins everytime i start it, otherwise it will stall when i drive. When i drive, say im goin into neutral from 3rd to stop at the light, the rpms will dip so low that my engine will stall and stall all the way to the lights or stop. It will not keep idle rpm on neutral at all.
The throttle is not responsive at first, so if your not careful with the clutch on first, it will stall again.
So basically i have to use my ebrake to slow me down as i restart my car, but here is another problem, it won't restart right away, it takes me a full 2 mins before it will restart. Its like the engine is flooded.
So basically to me it sounds like the ecu is has to relearn idle air/fuel mixture everytime it restarts. but i don't know jack about ecu's so i will leave it to the pro's.

What i have tried to diagnose:
reset ecu - result - nothing
check grounding wires - result - they are fine
inspect CAI - result - its on tight, sensor is attached and not damaged
spark plugs are fine.

Guys, i can say nothing but great things about this Hondata #4 reflash, i've had it since i got my baby at 5000kms, i love it. but now that its time to sell my car and this has been happening for a month, but i have been too busy to contact u guys. I am losing HP, vtec seems weird on me, but my rev limit(fuel cut off) is still there at 8600 rpm so i know that the H4 is still doin its job but not full capacity. My fuel mileage used to be amazing no matter my driving style and or season, but now i am loosing a full 100kms per tank of gas, and i always use 92 Octane.

I need your help please.
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Spunkster
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Post by Spunkster »

What is the error code you are receiving? What do you mean by "swap"? Have you taken this to the dealer to have them troubleshoot for you? Have you tried cleaning the Idle control valve?
Plasma69
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:55 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada

Post by Plasma69 »

ok. so i cleaned my air filter, changed my oil, oil filter, removed the CAI boot so i can access the TB, bought a fat a$$ TB cleaner can and i sprayed the piss out of the TB and in that little slot which if im correct is where the ICV is. I only sprayed about half the can as per recommendation of the can. It doesn't seem to stall on me, but the idle is still kinda ruff at times. I will keep monitoring the situation for the next 3 days but until than it looks like it may have solved my issue. In the mean time.

Thank you Hondata, its always nice to know that i can get support from the people that make my product.
Plasma69
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:55 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada

Post by Plasma69 »

ok update.

still stallin. tho my cel hasn't come up. now that the cold weather is here, i have to idle and warm up for even longer b4 i can go. otherwise when i press the gas, it feels very very unresponsive like there was a delay in the reaction for the fuel to get into the engine. i don't know, its still weird, maybe i should just spray the other half of the TB cleaner can.
any other suggestions??
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Spunkster
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Post by Spunkster »

please post datalogs and the calibration you are using
Plasma69
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Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:55 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada

Post by Plasma69 »

uh? hmmm all i have is the H4 reflash. its not a kpro. unless i misunderstood. i didn't think u could get datalogs from the reflash, and if so, how would i obtain them?
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Hondata
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Post by Hondata »

You need to read the error codes from the ECU.
Hondata
Plasma69
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Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:55 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada

Post by Plasma69 »

using a obdII reader??
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Spunkster
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Post by Spunkster »

Yes...Aotozone can read them for you.
Plasma69
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Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:55 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada

Post by Plasma69 »

sweet. we don't have that in canada BUT i'll see if one of my dc5 guys have one. btw new update.

Now the car doesn't start... seems like its flooded. it will start 50% of the time. OR if it does start. it takes 10-15 secs worth of cranking...

this is gettin very tiresum.. haha. im really hopin its not the ecu. will go get codes read..
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Hondata
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Post by Hondata »

In the KManager help file, look up 'Reference' then 'Retrieving DTCs'. You need a paper clip. Don't poke the paper clip in the wrong holes otherwise it will blow a fuse.
Hondata
Plasma69
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Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:55 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada

Post by Plasma69 »

hmmm.... shat.... haha.. ok. i better be careful than..
drumnatural
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Post by drumnatural »

Primary o2 sensor possibly going out on you.
Plasma69
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Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:55 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada

Post by Plasma69 »

boyz i am uber worried....

code is PO303 which is cylinder 3 misfire detect.

what do i do now? i really don't want to bring it in to the dealership, i don't need more thousands of dollars spent on them messing things up. i just need this fixed so i can sell it.

could it be spark plugs?
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Hondata
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Post by Hondata »

- check wiring for any bad grounds, poor connections etc
- check the spark plugs for cracks or anything unusual
- do a leakdown to check that the cylinder seal is good

If everything looks ok, then you may need to check the fuel injectors (flow test), fuel pump (low pressure?) or the oxygen sensor (test with a known good o2 sensor).
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