S300 won't datalog, motor used to run perfect

Mikey3000 · Post by **Mikey3000** » Sat Oct 07, 2006 7:45 pm

I went racing on labor day and the car ran perfect. No problems with the motor or anything else. About 3 weeks later I install a new tach, change the oil and change the plugs. When I try to start the car, it starts and runs like shit, almost like its misfiring. I pulled the plugs and they were covered with gas. After further evaluation I decide to buy a new distributor. I buy a new distributor from Distributor King and install it. Now the car starts and runs a little bit better but it is easy to tell it is not idling right. The motor won't stay on if you take your foot off the throttle.

I've checked all my grounds, checked for detached vacuum lines, etc. I do have a CEL but it will not give me a code when i jump the 2-P connector. This may have something to do with it but I don't know how to go about fixing this. When I try to datalog, all the readings stay at 0. The ECU has been opened by an ECU expert at InlinePro and nothing is burned, broken, etc.

About the motor/car:
H22A fully built
T4/T67 turbo
Hondata S300 tuned
Car has 116 fuel in it
4 x 1000 cc injectors
Spark Plugs are NGK BCPR7ES gapped @ 30 thousandths
Spark plug wires are NGK
External MSD Blaster coil
STR Intake Manifold
Lightning Motorsports 3-Bar MAP
the list goes on.

Anyway the car ran perfect at the track.

Post by **Hondata** » Sun Oct 08, 2006 2:17 pm

s300 will not datalog = bad socketing. Check the s300 socket, upload the calibration again and see if it will datalog.

Mikey3000 · Post by **Mikey3000** » Sun Oct 08, 2006 5:02 pm

what specifically should I be looking for in the socket? when the socket is removed, does the calibration have to be uploaded again?

thanks

Post by **Spunkster** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:41 am

You will have to check continuity of each pin to where it goes on the board. It may also hav esome cold solder joints...It would be much better to just resolder everything making sure all the joints are properly flowed.

Mikey3000 · Post by **Mikey3000** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 10:29 am

so with the socket plugged, put one lead of the multimeter on a pin on the socket, and the other lead on the opposite side of the board to the corresponding pin? is it easy to see corresponding pins from the socket to the underside of the board?

thanks for the responses

Post by **Spunkster** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:32 am

You will have to follow the trace on the board and check continuity form the pin to where it goes on the board. You should resolder the whole thing, as that is probably the problem.

Mikey3000 · Post by **Mikey3000** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:34 am

resolder the whole ecu circuit board?

locash · Post by **locash** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 12:45 pm

While it would be rather funny to watch you resolder every circuit on the board, I would only re-solder the connections for the Hondata system.

Mikey3000 · Post by **Mikey3000** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 3:48 pm

the problem has been found. it seems like the tune just flew out of the ecu. i got the tuner to put the tune back in and the car started up and purred like a kitten, like always. this should be a sticky or a new faq or something. i don't know if this happens frequently or if it was a freak thing.