air conditioning compressor clutch not engaging

[TTR]

The A/C not working is probably due to the ecu not having the components needed or something is bad. As far as wiring the x300 for closed loop operation goes this is what you need to do.
Make sure power is on a relay so it doesn't shut off under cranking
Wire analog signal to D10 ELD
Remove R136 and R138 from ecu
Tap analog ground to D22
Disable ELD in tune
Make sure to adjust voltage offset to match the software to WB display
You can change maximum map to your liking
Double check the A/F to voltage is correct

[lurice0]

Found an article describing the D10 vs d14 issue on HAMotorsports' website.
"UPDATE: With all newer wideband systems that use the Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor, 0-3.73 volts reading through the stock D14 02 sensor input is more than sufficient for reading air/fuel ratio, so using the D10 ELD input is no longer beneficial. If your wideband uses the Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor, we recommend using the D14 input now, this way you can leave the ELD circuit functional."

suppose i get a tune done with the wideband, then can / should i then replace the wideband sensor with the stock narrowband o2 sensor for better fuel economy and what changes to s300 would i have to make?

[TTR]

Using D14 with any wideband limits how low or high of a reading you get. You also get the same thing on the ELD input if you don't remove the resistors. Using the ELD for wideband also lets you run an OEM sensor like stock with just switching back in the software. Fuel economy will not change based on what sensor you use for closed loop. The rich to lean settings have more to do with economy than what sensor you use.

[lurice0]

Thank you
You mean when i use d10 for wideband, i should leave d14 alone and keep my stock o2 sensor installed, and install a 2nd bung for the wideband?

Can the AEM 30-0300 X-Series Wideband UEGO function as a narrowband just by changing the option in the software?

[lurice0]

Install a 2nd bung for the wideband?

[TTR]

If you set it up like the pictures it will work like stock. If you ever want to actually use a stock sensor you can.

[lurice0]

I got my hondata display and aem wideband afr gauge to match comrade i have it hooked up exactly like this guide:

https://www.hamotorsports.com/pages/...Z1oS1zhl0wnlUL

and then i had to go to Parameters > Closed loop advanced. And change the voltage afr table to match numbers provided for the aem gauge and they match with no offset i can see.

its around 14.7 idling then as i hit gas it goes down until around 11 at wot on the stock p28 calibration.

Problem is im getting 23 mpg. I use AC sparingly.
I have a special high output alternator so i don't want to disable the ELD but i plan to maybe start using D12 EGRL by getting the capacitor installed. Do i need to disable Alternator control or something to fix my mpg?

With my dyno tuned calibration AFRs are a little different and i will see if mpg changes on that calibration but i need help. I think the wideband causes the mpg issue.