2015 Civic Si Limp mode

[KEMI5T]

I need a base map and tune for my vehicle. I have a 2015 Si that I returned to factory tune to achieve an inspection in NYS. Unfortunately when I did that now my car isn’t running well at all and bogs down when I hit 3k rpm’s. I’m afraid my car isn’t going to last too long running like this. PLEASE HELP.

[CalibratEd]

I need a base map and tune for my vehicle. I have a 2015 Si that I returned to factory tune to achieve an inspection in NYS. Unfortunately when I did that now my car isn’t running well at all and bogs down when I hit 3k rpm’s. I’m afraid my car isn’t going to last too long running like this. PLEASE HELP.

How does the car run if you reload the calibration you were running before you returned to the factory calibration?

- Ed

[KEMI5T]

Unfortunately I made the worst mistake and didn’t take down the settings of the tune prior. I have made further mistakes by going ahead and trying other tunes available since. Because the car won’t go over 3k without bogging down the way it does I’m assuming I’m going to have to bring it to a tune shop? I’m at a loss as this is my daily and I work Monday through Friday and was informed today I shouldn’t be driving it this way.. I’ve had the suggestion on unplugging the battery for a “hard reset” and increasing fuel flow. When it comes to car computers and setting parameters I don’t know a thing but I can try the old battery “trick” lol

[KEMI5T]

I’m open to any and all suggestions. I don’t want to race I just want to pass inspection and have a clean running vehicle.

[KEMI5T]

P.S. I apologize for the abruptness of this post, I’m just at such a loss atm. Thanks in advance for any & all your input & expertise!

-Nick

[CalibratEd]

Nick,

To confirm you flashed back to stock and removed all of your modifications I assume.

I’m trying to understand the situation. You stated you flashed back to stock but then mentioned you tried other calibrations. You would need to bring it to a tune shop if you want to get it tuned again but you mentioned you went back to stock. Please clarify what is going on so I can better help you. Is the 3,000rpm issue with the stock calibration or the Hondata calibration?

-Ed

[KEMI5T]

Ed,

I am Sorry, I have failed to elaborate more on the issue at hand. Currently I am running the Calibration under "US Civic Si 2012-2014, Hondata reflash, EPA/CARB compliant". Being that I purchased the car not long ago, I'm assuming the only modification to the vehicle mechanically is the Skunk2 CAI. I have tried a couple other Basemaps and all of which were 310 injector size. When I tried to run the vehicle under factory reset the car would stall out on the initial start and would require a second crank. Similar running issue with that however I believe it wasn't as boggy as it is now at lower RPMs. I would acheive 4k rpms with that setting prior to that same cutoff feeling.

Initially when I decided to flash the vehicle it was just because I couldn't clear codes for inspection. I believe I had 4. I'm not quite sure which direction I should go.. Do I factory reset again?

-Nick

[CalibratEd]

Nick,

If your are getting a catalytic converter code the cold air intake may not be the only modification the car has. What other codes did the car have? Also, the carb tune should only be used with carb legal parts.

Someone with more experience passing inspection can chime in but if the codes are turned off I don’t think car will pass. The rear o2 may come up as not ready. If they place a sniffer in the pipe and you don’t have a catalytic converter then you definitely won’t pass.

-Ed

[KEMI5T]

Ed,

I am not 100% sure what the other two codes were exactly. I do believe one other may have been an evap code. I do believe the vehicle has a cat and a proper 02 setup. Just to be sure and thorough I will inspect the vehicle to make sure that this isn't the case. In the meantime.. Would you have any recommendation as far as what basemap I should use to avoid any further potential damage. If say the vehicle other than the CAI is indeed stock?

-Nick

[KEMI5T]

Ed,

I do indeed have all the necessary parts there. Cat, Upstream & Downstream 02 as well. Previous to resetting factory defaults, the vehicle drove fine but I was informed to do so because those codes wouldn't clear for inspection and were essentially turned off in the ECU.

-Nick

[CalibratEd]

Nick

Yes, after the codes were cleared you need to drive the car to make sure they don’t come back. In the mean time I suggest you run the base calibration closes to your modification. The base map you find will need some adjustments. This will at least have the car running safe until you get properly tuned. Another option is to install the stock intake.

-Ed

[KEMI5T]

Ed,

Ok, Which basemap do you think that would be? Im not quite sure which one would be considered closest to stock with just a skunk 2 cold air intake.
I am very grateful for your guidance, and I appreciate it a ton!

-Nick

[KEMI5T]

Ed,

Unfortunately the only tuner near me has a very bad reputation.. I would like to possibly go through you or any other recommendable persons with similar expertise that you may know. Regardless let me know and I would absolutely pay the necessary $$ to get my vehicle running as clean as possible.

-Nick

[CalibratEd]

Ed,

Ok, Which basemap do you think that would be? Im not quite sure which one would be considered closest to stock with just a skunk 2 cold air intake.
I am very grateful for your guidance, and I appreciate it a ton!

-Nick

Nick,

I would recommend to just go with the stock Hondata calibration and make adjustments to the MAF for the new intake.

-Ed

[CalibratEd]

Ed,

Unfortunately the only tuner near me has a very bad reputation.. I would like to possibly go through you or any other recommendable persons with similar expertise that you may know. Regardless let me know and I would absolutely pay the necessary $$ to get my vehicle running as clean as possible.

-Nick

Nick,

We can certainly set something up. When do you need to go get it inspected?

-Ed