Tuning Kpro on 05

[gabo]

I am experiencing a slight hesitation at around 3200-3500 rpm (25-38 mph) on second and third gear. The weird thing is that if it does it on second first it wont do it on third and vice versa. Datalogs seem to show that it is going into open loop for some reason. I'm using the cold air calibration there is no knock :D How can I tune this out???

[gabo]

Do I need to be on a dyno in order to tune my A/F? or can I use a datalog of third gear from 2500 rpm to redline to tune it???

[Spunkster]

A dyno is recommended for tuning both air fuel ratio and timing.

[Razathorn]

Do I need to be on a dyno in order to tune my A/F? or can I use a datalog of third gear from 2500 rpm to redline to tune it???

I do not work at hondata

Hondata is probably unwilling to suggest it, mainly since it promotes breaking the law, but you can definatly do basic a/f tuning and tuning to remove knock from a fairly close base map on the road with 3rd gear pulls. It is your job however to ensure that you have taken all the saftey precautions to ensure you're not going to endanger other drivers on the road. What I do is find a stretch of highway in a remote area that has an entry ramp that never runs out of road before it turns into an exit ramp for the next exit. This way you can actually creep to the end of the entrance ramp and then floor it and datalog all the way to the top of 3rd gear and shut it down and still have plenty of time to slow down before you get to the exit side. Obviously do this when cars are not around or trying to enter or exit the highway. If you get caught doing this, you will definatly get a ticket as you will be nearing 90mph, and no police officer will have pitty on you for tuning a car, especially if you look under 30 driving an 'hot rod import'

I would say that defaulting to the dyno is the best option in almost all cases, but I must admit that for cleanup tunes of basemaps I do not go to the dyno, I just run it on the road and clean things up. After any good tune on the dyno, I would always take it out for a few runs down the road to the top of 3rd gear to do some real world cleanup, especially if you're using a cold air intake. My car was 1 whole a/f point leaner on the road than on the dyno after 7500 rpm when I was N/A. I litereally did road tuning to 13 flat right before I went to the dyno, when at the dyno, I datalogged a few 11.9s and 12s at the top of the rpm range. Went right back out to the road and it was back to 12.8 - 13 again. Wedge shapped cars with cold air intakes can change things , and we had a big fan at the dyno, it just couldn't replicate the car slicing through the air at 75+.

Also, when you get your 'cleanup' on the road done, I would also run through first, second, and thid gear to see how much leaner the peaks in the a/f datalog are in the lower gears and make per gear adjustments from that data. A car I street tuned recently needed as much as 5% more fuel in first gear to bring the a/f down to what it was in 3rd at the same peaks in the a/f datalog.

Bottom line: Dyno is safer, but I think a little road testing/cleanup should be done at least, since we have the ability.

Wayne

[gabo]

Wayne you are the man. I already have the freeway ramp with your description on mind. I should do this during the day right?? Because of temperature??

[Razathorn]

Wayne you are the man. I already have the freeway ramp with your description on mind. I should do this during the day right?? Because of temperature??

You should always do it during the day, due to wild life that tends to come out onto the road at night ;). If you're using the temperature compensation tables from the coldair calibration, you can tune at almost any temperature, however, tuning in warmer ones is more desirable in my opinion as I think the fuel addition in colder temps with those tables is a bit more than is needed, so if you tune when it's really cold out, you may be a bit leaner when warm temperatures roll around.

Also, actually tuning ignition for power should be done on a dyno. You need to see if you made more power with your changes. It's possible to use too much ignition, to the point where you made less power but the car is not knocking. That over advance of ignition is very stressful. The only thing I ever do on the road ignition wise is remove ignition for knock that I encounter from a base map. I never advance ignition on the road.

Wayne

[gabo]

Wayne you bring up a good point I would'nt want to run into a horse or something :} I will do this this saturday. I would do it right now but damn it I have to work!!!