Can't get my tune down, 09 si usdm

[EFICU]

Who knows, but yeah I would be curious to see your highway mileage to see where we're at. Seems like it should be better, the fuel trims are great so the ECU isn't missing the target of 14.64 very much which usually yields the best fuel economy.

There shouldn't really be anything limiting your engine too much. The only thing left you can do for external engine work is something like the K-Tuned 72mm throttle body and port match the opening of the intake manifold for the TB. The biggest HP gains I have seen are with the K-Tuned TB. Then you would look to do cams maybe at some point, but for external, a big throttle body and port matching the inlet of the manifold would help. If you don't want to port the inlet then don't worry about the TB. To get the full benefit you really need to port the inlet to match the 72mm TB.

[jcoul72]

I drove to the highway and cruised around for a bit. I also did another 3rd gear pull in the beginning for the hell of it. I am supposed to drive to miami tomorrow, if I could get better mileage that would be sick!

[EFICU]

So again, what kind of mileage were you able to calculate on the highway when comparing mileage to gallons added when refilling? I don't know what mathematics you're using to calculate fuel economy, or how many gallons driven on the highway versus the street.

When I calculated my mileage, I literally drove on the freeway for 6.5 hours on a road trip and used that to calculate my highway fuel economy when I filled up with gas, mileage divided gallons filled. In this datalog, you drove at 70mph in the range of 3-6 minutes at a time and only part of it with cruise control on. It's impossible to get a highway fuel economy reading with 3-6 minutes of highway driving. I'd love to help you reach your goals man, but you have to help me help you. I looked at the OEM cam angle mapping, and the mapping I had 10 years ago which I have fuel economy data from with 6.5 hours of highway, both of those use the 30 cam angle map at 70mph which yours does as well. Your fuel trims are within 0-5% while on the highway. I'm not sure what else I can do for you. I just don't see how I got 37mpg at 65mph and you say you're getting 30mpg or less at 70mph. But hey, maybe I am terrible at this.

Here is the next one for you. I removed some timing for knock you had in the datalog. As far as fuel economy, I'm not sure what else I can do for you until you can get some actual data from strictly highway driving for a long period of time and calculate mileage divided by gallons. At this point though, the tune is safe and works well, maybe we call it good at this point. You might search for a tuner that will charge you for a tune, they might have some strategies on how to help you with your fuel economy goals. I think we've put enough into this one for you and I'm sorry that you're disappointed.

Jcoul72.SD.Rev14 (Blended)(Vtec4300)(SportPedal).fpcal

[jcoul72]

Not disappointed at all!

My method was to fill up, reset trip, and go till all bars were gone on the gauge, then miles divided by gallons. I figured out my mileage is 100% due to driving style. I compared two tanks, both equal parts city/highway. The first one I shifted every gear before 2.5k rpms, and did the speed limit. Over 300 miles. Second tank I did 10 - 15 over consistently and did 1st-3rd pulls from time to time, resulting in only 250.

What you have done thus far is outstanding and I thank you for working w my less than ideal communication/comprehension 😂

As far as swapping over the 1000cc's would it be a global percentage change to the map or does the whole map change? Its true I haven't paid u anything yet so I don't expect u to work on this, just curious.

[EFICU]

Not disappointed at all!

My method was to fill up, reset trip, and go till all bars were gone on the gauge, then miles divided by gallons. I figured out my mileage is 100% due to driving style. I compared two tanks, both equal parts city/highway. The first one I shifted every gear before 2.5k rpms, and did the speed limit. Over 300 miles. Second tank I did 10 - 15 over consistently and did 1st-3rd pulls from time to time, resulting in only 250.

What you have done thus far is outstanding and I thank you for working w my less than ideal communication/comprehension 😂

As far as swapping over the 1000cc's would it be a global percentage change to the map or does the whole map change? Its true I haven't paid u anything yet so I don't expect u to work on this, just curious.

Okay sounds good. Yeah I don't know what else we can do to get better mileage honestly. Your trip to FL should give you a good idea of highway mileage though. So see how it goes.

Swapping to the 1000s we will have to make some changes in the file and perhaps work on cold start attempts as that might become one of the things that gets impacted the most. The nice thing is we know the tune is dialed with OEM injectors, so getting any oddities in the injector dead times dialed becomes much easier because we know right now the tune is dialed. So it's a little more than global percentage changes, but it shouldn't be anything too major since we tuned it already. Problems really come up when the car wasn't tuned with the same mods and stock injectors, meaning when someone changes the intake-header-exhaust and injectors all in one shot, then we don't know anything prior. So yeah, the only issue we might have is cold start, but we should be able to get it figured out pretty easy.

[jcoul72]

Its been a long month but I finally got the highway datalog. As the weather cools down here I've begun noticing some lean spots. I took an extra datalog this morning of just pulls. The car did put out some 14:1's this morning, but when it was another 4-5 degrees colder the other night I saw just shy of 15:1. I'm curious as to how you will adjust the compensation table, very excited to see what changes are made.

PS: PM me your cashapp

[EFICU]

If you're referring to your wideband gauge in the car as reading lean, you might need to do a free air calibration of the sensor to reset it. There really is no way for it to go to 15:1 at WOT no matter how cold you go. I've tuned them in freezing temps and 100*+. In this datalog titled lean spots, the leanest it went is 13.7 according you wideband, for a few hundred RPMS. Also, it looks like an area we've been working on as it was a little lean a couple datalogs ago, so we've been touching up that area to get it right. Your intake temps are within 8* of today's and those in August, so your intake temps aren't changing much if any and the compensation at that range is the same. So, for the 15:1 range, you would have to capture that in a datalog so I can see the data. There is nothing in the tune that could change the AFR from being 13:1 to 15:1 when the temps are the same. There would have to be a mechanical issue, or in this case, the wideband gauge isn't reading properly. Look into the free air calibration to reset the sensor.

Your fuel economy datalog, your fuel trims are literally with in 3% of target that whole time, with the most samples in one cell sampling 7200 data samples with an average of 0% from target. Can't really do much better than that. Were you able to do any real calculations, gas filled versus mileage driven?

I made some WOT fuel changes in this next one for you. I don't have cashapp.

Jcoul72.SD.Rev15 (Blended)(Vtec4300)(SportPedal).fpcal

[jcoul72]

Outstanding.

Okay, I see now that's how the fuel trims should look, thank you. I've gotten myself another project build I'm going to tune myself using what I've learned from you and what I see in the changes you made from each log and revision. Regarding the A/F's, I may have been hyperbolic when I said 15:1 haha. I think at most I saw 14.3 at WOT, when the air was abnormally cool and humidity gone (the air here is typically very moist). I am just overly cautious and at times paranoid lmao. I don't believe we have even dipped below the 70s here yet.

[EFICU]

Sounds good. Just datalog as much as you can while you driving around for purpose, and if you see something funky at WOT like that save and post the datalog. But yeah, even if you went into the freezing temperature range, the AFR might lean out to 13.3 if that, because there are compensations for that cold, but nothing would make it go from a target AFR at 13.1 on your car to 15.1 because of temperature. Especially not a 10* swing from where it was tuned.

[jcoul72]

So I recently blew a headgasket (I dont think it was related to the tune), and since I had the motor out I went ahead and replaced the map sensor, plugs, timing chain, and installed a hondata intake manifold gasket, as well as a k-tuned knock sensor on the car. Now, I'm registering knock on my first drive. A lot of knock. Could these be false readings? Would you by chance be able to take a look at this datalog and lmk what u think? Thank you.

[EFICU]

Yeah that's definitely a lot of knock. The first concern I have is the ECU isn't working properly in that it's not commanding the proper open and closed loop operation. I would guess the primary o2 sensor has been compromised. Did you get a lot of water in the exhaust by chance from the head gasket failure? If so, it might have damaged the oxygen sensor. Based on past experience, something is wrong with the primary o2 sensor. The last time I saw it, a guy had a header installed and the shop put a defouler on the primary o2 sensor, which doesn't work and caused the same issue. Not saying you did, just saying the primary o2 sensor has either failed, been damaged, or is in some way not fully threaded into it's sensor bung. That needs to be our first issue to be addressed, could the knock be from that, possibly, but not likely. You also have a PO135 code in the system, meaning failure of the primary o2 sensor.

So double check the sensor, make sure it's connected, threaded all the way in, and otherwise not showing any obvious damage. If you had a lot of water in the exhaust from the head gasket, then I would say it's been compromised due to the water. These sensors don't like water.

As far as the knock directly, it's showing in the same areas we worked on a lot with the previous tune. I don't know that I've had experience with a K-Tuned knock sensor, so I can't speak to the quality of the sensor. If you want to continue running the K-Tune sensor, then we would need to tune for it. But we can't do anything until we get the primary o2 sensor replaced and working properly. Looking at your wideband input the fueling looks okay, but don't do any WOT or aggressive driving until we figure out the sensor.

[jcoul72]

Okay, I'll try to pick up the new o2 tomorrow. Side note, since I adjusted the valve clearance, the motor ticks louder. I was sure to double check my feeler gauges, but I did have a slight bias towards the loose side. I wonder if that is affecting the knock sensor. The car feels fine driving tbh, so I'm hoping we can resolve the knock count easily. We'll see I guess haha

[EFICU]

Yeah once you get the o2 sensor in, take it for a quick drive and datalog it. Try not to do any hard driving, just a 5 minute datalog is fine to see how the sensor is acting.

The knock could be false from the valvetrain. That's why aftermarket cams are notorious for causing false knock because of the noisier valvetrain they require. So yeah, it could be. I'm not sure how up for putting the OEM knock sensor in you might be, but that would be a good test too. But the o2 sensor is the main concern right now, we can take everything step by step once we know everything is functioning properly with the o2 sensor.

What brand spark plugs did you put in there?

[jcoul72]

I put the same plugs as before in, the ngks. O2 is in, and the short term calculations have returned. The "knock" is still present. I'd like to keep the ktuned sensor in. According to ktuned it is supposed to read exactly the same as OE, though it does have a metal housing as opposed to the stock's plastic. When I pulled the motor the OE knock sensor was barely hanging on to the block, and I could see its internal wiring.

I went on a drive, and the car sounds more like it has an rsx motor, if that makes sense. The exhaust note has slightly more "rumble", but its not so bad that it sounds like a subaru. Here's the datalog from that:

[EFICU]

Yeah unfortunately something doesn't seem right with the engine or the knock sensor. Our last few datalogs we had a few knock, then your gas mileage testing showed zero knock, now we have over 1000 thousand knock. It seems like false knock, but if you think the engine sounds different then we might have a mechanical issue of some sort. It's still registering knock while the ECU is pulling 7-8* of ignition in part throttle to stop it. So it's hard to say, the data shows perhaps it's false, but the engine note makes me less sure. The cam angle is following the cam angle commanded, so it doesn't look like an issue with the timing chain or tensioner. Sadly this is the main concern with changing so many things at once, it's hard to say what the culprit is.

With that much knock I don't really feel comfortable deeming it to be false, that would be up to you. If you do feel it's false, we can adjust the knock sensitivity tables to stop it from registering the knock. I'm a huge fan of K-Tuned parts, but I just don't know on the knock sensor you know. Is there any chance the timing was off on the cams after reinstalling the cylinder head? If the cams were installed advanced, that might be it too. Not trying to be rude, just trying to think of anything I can to help.