Faulty Map Sensor Wiring Fried ECU?

[aeonpsych]

- serial number of the s300 inside the ECU: 54187
- version of software being used (Help, About): 2.7.6 build 2002
- what sort of vehicle you have: 99 acura integra obd2 conversion harness to obd1 at the ecu.
- what sort of ECU you are using: hamotorsports modified/socketed chipped "Hondata S300 V3 / OBD1 AUTO ECU Package"
- aem fuel pressure regulator, 255 lph fuel pump, stock injectors, b20/b16a vtec conversion with small turbo.


Been on this setup and ECU for a couple months now, everything has been working good with the ecu and being able to tune it. Got the AFR readings where I want them about a week ago, and been driving 20+ miles a day since. Today, on the last block drive to work location, the wideband maxed to full rich (10:1) after doing a 90% throttle 1st gear pull to about 7k rpms before shifting, shifting into second gear it pegged to max rich and drove like crap the last block to work. shut off and turned back on in the parking lot to see if something was glitched out, but still read 11/10 afr idling.

after work, car will not start at all, it cranks fine, and wants to start, but as soon as it catches even a bit, it will just stall. Rechecked the spark plugs, and got the car to start only by holding the throttle down at least 50%, while this was happening it was stumbling hard, and the afr was all over the place. hooked up the laptop to datalog, and MAP reading was all over the place, and o2 heater CEL popped up (I have the OEM disconnected and replaced with a wideband, and the o2 heater disabled in hondata). Pop the hood to check the map sensor, and as I go to touch the map sensor, the middle wire falls apart in the plug, comes disconnected, and car shuts off. I disconnect the plug to inspect it closer, and the wire(s) sounded like they sparked or something, and I hear the fuel prime. Go to shut off everything, disconnected all 3 wires, and took the plug in to get new wires soldered in.

Got the plug all hooked up, and car won't start at all. It cranks fine, sounds like it catches pretty quick once, and then just stalls right away. Tried to hook up laptop to ecu again to reload a map or check sensors, or anything, and can't do jack. Key On Engine Off, smanager says drivers installed, online in lower left. clicking online in the toolbar gives me "Download" "information" "Set Security Password" "Bluetooth" all other options are grayed out, and I do have the calibration open, as well as trying different calibrations.
If I click download tune, the calibration is set set to blank, like if one wasn't loaded, and then after a couple minutes, smanager has a fatal error and wants me to report the issue, and close.

I go to connect to bluetooth, and no ecu address (or any address at all) show up in the bluetooth popup box. I connect to bluetooth on my mobile phone hondata app, and it connects, but trying to view any information at all gives me an error "Ignition is not on" (or something saying ignition is not on), which is weird because s300 won't even let you connect unless the ignition is on as far as I know.


I'm thinking the map sensor fried the ecu when the wire(s) fell apart? Looking for other possibilities. The car is an automatic, so can't really swap other ecus unfortunately (at least not that I think is possible), and probably likely difficult getting another one sourced, so hoping maybe it's some fuse or relay in the car and not anything with the ecu itself. Worst case scenario hoping just the s300 unit went bad, and can just swap it out.


Thanks for any advice or help!

[Spunkster]

Automatics aren't supported. That being said, have you checked the fuses?

The MAP sensor could be damaged as well.

[aeonpsych]

Well whatever ecu package they sent me was able to run my automatic b20vtec, so not sure what they did, or if they did anything.

I reseated the hondata chip as well and nothing changed. I still had the o2 heater code, even though it disabled in the tune. I read this by counting the flashing cel in the dash, still could not connect to the ecu either by laptop or by mobile. Mobile app would just say ignition not on, even though I still could connect to the bluetooth address of the hondata.

That aside, I found my stock map sensor and swapped back to the oem ecu and the car started up fine.

So it's narrowed down to bad aftermarket map sensor, bad ecu, and or bad hondata.

I think it's a bad ecu because I don't think a bad map sensor would prevent the laptop from connecting to ecu. I found someone that has another s300 v3 I can swap into my "automatic" ecu, so am going to try that asap.
If it doesn't work, I'll try swapping his whole ecu in and see if the car will at least start. That should give me clear indication of what component has failed.

[aeonpsych]

Wouldn't let me edit the post, but I forgot to add that I pulled the ecu cover off the automatic ecu hondata and the hondata shows a solid green led by the serial and a rapidly flashing red led by the usb port labelled D2 I think.

Smanager comes up with an application error while connected to this ecu and wants to close the app. If smanager is closed, but the usb still connected, just 1 solid green led on the hondata

[aeonpsych]

Update.

Can't connect to either of the 2 s300 v3 in my ecu, and I can't connect to my s300 in the other ecu.

Car will start and idle with all 3 ecus (mine with my s300, other ecu with other s300 (and my calibration with oem mapsensor adjusted), and with the oem automatic ecu with the OEM map sensor hooked up). Wouldn't think my ecu with the 4 bar map sensor map would be able to even start the car if the oem map sensor is being used.
Can connect and upload normally (it seems) to other s300 in other ecu.


So it appears both my ecu and my s300 are now incompatible with connecting to a laptop, and possibly my aftermarket map sensor could be faulty as well (since it wouldn't even start with my ecu before and nothing else has been changed).

[Spunkster]

Have you contacted HAmotorsports about this since automatics are not supported using an s300?

[aeonpsych]

Yes I have, they originally said it's not covered under their warranty because it would have been a fault in externally wiring, but they are now potentially asking for me to send it in to test. I have not yet received confirmation on that as of yet.