Can't get my tune down, 09 si usdm

[jcoul72]

I'm referring to the "hump" in the high cam fuel table. When I was building my map I noticed it then too. I'm assuming its just how air flows with the PLM header? Very intriguing stuff. Also, what is your reference when creating an ignition map? How do you know when an engine calls for more or less, without using a dyno?

I'm going to take the car out again, be back shortly.

[EFICU]

The hump is just the result of the engine's demands. A stock 8th gen won't demand so much right before 5200 because of efficiency or lack of it. With bolt ons, it hits harder down low there because of the mods. Sort of shows you why setting vtec too low on a stock (ish) car actually hurts performance. When they do that, it engages vtec where it makes less power and gives you a bog condition. It's just the nature of an engine being an air pump, where it wants more air it wants more fuel, and the graph shows that. Also, if you click through the fuel tables, you will notice they tend to take the shape of a dyno graph. That tends to give you a good idea of where to go with the cam angle map. If you don't tune each cam angle for your car specifically, it's very hard to create a cam angle map to get the best results, without a dyno of course. Which is why a lot of tuners just use a standard cam angle map, I don't, but a lot do. They also don't tune each cam angle either, I do. It's all a matter of the time and effort one wants to put into the tune and their goals in tuning for you.

There really is no way to check for ignition tuning without a dyno. I use Virtual Dyno software to see how things are going powerwise, but if you are making pulls on a downhill road, or uphil, it can skew the readings quite a bit. Or if you hit a bump, it throws off the data required to calculate the power. Generally, I am always on the conservative side because I aim for 0 knock in any portion of the table. Some guys say some knock is okay, which is most likely true. But how much power is gained over ignition that knocks vs ignition that doesn't? I would take a 5hp loss to know my car never knocks, but some guys want that 5hp for drag racing, so it's all up to preference. Generally though, the most ignition without knock should make the most power. So I try to get you the most ignition that shows no repeatable knock.

[jcoul72]

That all makes sense. The car feels better having WOT determined by throttle %. Do you see any reliability issues arising as compared to MAP based? I wont be flooring it in 6th gear, but I do like to keep the throttle somewhat open and rpms low to reduce pumping loss therefore increasing MPG. I know these engines aren't exactly mazda skyactives or anything, so I am hoping the k20 tumbles air well enough to remain safe long-term.

Also, datalog:

[EFICU]

Sounds good, whatever works best for you is all good. There shouldn't be any issues for the pedal for WOT, that's how some guys do it, and how most Hondata basemaps have it, and how Hondata has it from factory. Your MPG should be good, my old 8th gen got 38 mpg on the freeway and like 22 mpg or so around town. I don't remember the around town exactly, but I know the highway mileage was over 38 mpg.

My old 8th gen has over 160,000 miles on it with no issues and it's been tuned since 2012 at 60,000 miles. When tuned properly you can extend the life. Not to mention the way we tune, it takes a lot of pressure of the timing chain and tensioner which increases longevity.

So it all looks really good. There is really no reason to have you drive round on the 45* cam for part throttle. I went ahead and blended out the cam angle map for the low cam based on what your car likes, and I blended the high cam based on the fuel tables as well, but I added the 45* rotation up to about 7000 rpm on the high cam so we can see how much of it the car likes. So take it for a spin, and see what you think.

Keep the datalogs in the 20-30 minute range and the one WOT pull in third gear for our tuning needs. Other than that, drive it however you want and do whatever things you want to. You can get after it now.

Jcoul72.SD.Rev06.1 (Blended)(Vtec4300).fpcal

[jcoul72]

Went a little crazy on the gas lmao. Stayed out longer too so I cut the datalog off at 30min. I promise I don't normally drive like this haha

[jcoul72]

Weird it didnt post the datalog. lemme try again:

[EFICU]

Looks really good. I made some changes for the fueling and some knock that showed up. Now that we have this pretty close, keep making the 20-30 minute datalogs, but we now need at least one third gear pull from 2500-8600, and one fourth gear pull from 3000-7000 or so to check for knock in fourth gear. Other than that, we're really close. I added some timing as well on the high cam to see if it likes more timing. I don't think I would go any higher than it is now, so if it shows no knock that would be great. The fourth gear pull will tell us a lot on that.

It did like that area I put in the 45* cam angle, so I cleaned up the fueling and left it in there. It should be really strong now in the mid range.

No problem on the driving, haha. I know you were feeling things out. It's actually good to see you get after it like that, you're putting the tune in places you may never, but seeing no knock and overall good behavior from the ECU is great to see.

Here is the next one, same datalog style, one 3rd gear pull from 2500-8600 and a 4th gear pull from 3000-7000.

Jcoul72.SD.Rev07.1 (Blended)(Vtec4300).fpcal

[jcoul72]

This car is coming alive finally. I see now why people rave about bolt ons for the K series engines. So much fun! I initially thought I had made my car slower LOL

[EFICU]

Looks pretty good. Still chasing the fuel a bit, but we'll get it. Had some new knock pop up, so I changed some of the ignition compensations to make up for it during the hot temps, then it will put the timing back in when it's cooler. I also made a couple adjustments to the pedal for WOT setting. I would like to see a little more fuel in it in the higher rpms at part throttle, so I lowered the pedal for WOT down to 60% throttle above 5000 rpm. There was one point you were at almost 6000 rpm and 68% throttle with an AFR of 14.xx. With the new settings, that would command WOT fueling which would make me a little more comfortable.

Other than that, it looks really good. Made a couple other ignition adjustments just to clean it up. Part throttle fuel looks good, so I only made a few WOT fueling adjustments there.

Same datalog and driving style. If you can, make both the third and fourth gear pulls like this last one.

Jcoul72.SD.Rev08 (Blended)(Vtec4300).fpcal

[jcoul72]

Sweet, thank you. I'll send over the new log tomorrow.

[EFICU]

Sounds good. We'll see how it looks tomorrow.

[jcoul72]

Here's this mornings log. The 4th gear pull felt very good. Managed to leave a exhaust and tune 10th gen si in the dust as well haha

[jcoul72]

didnt post again . starting to think im just forgetting lmao

[EFICU]

Haha, no problem. It looks really good. I made a few part throttle fuel changes as the last two datalogs verified a couple area of richer trims. Also pulled a bit of fuel at idle just to tighten up idle trims. WOT fueling I made a few adjustments just dialing in that midrange area, but I think we'll have it on this one. No knock which is great though, the small changes and compensations I made were all you needed which is great.

Too bad for the 10th gen, haha, he is for sure ordering more parts as we speak. :)

In this next one, I went ahead and put my sport pedal map in there. See if you like the way the pedal feels/reacts now to your input. Based on your perception and feel for the car, I think you'll like it. Other than that, I didn't really make any changes you would feel. So see if you like the new pedal map.

Same datalog and driving style.

Jcoul72.SD.Rev09.1 (Blended)(Vtec4300)(SportPedal).fpcal

[jcoul72]

Just changed the oil and went on a little drive, I like the pedal feel, very responsive. Bravo.