In need of basemap please

[DC5_Jess]

I need a base map for a JDM K24A (Basically K24A2 3 lobe on intake & exhaust) High Compression 10.5:1
- RBC
- 70mm Throttle Body
- Type S oil pump
- Cold Air Intake
- 310cc injectors

My A/F is running at 10.2 with the basemap I have now due to it being tuned with a 62mm throttle body

[CalibratEd]

Post your current calibration and a datalog so we may better assist you.

-Ed

[DC5_Jess]

Here's my Calibration I'm running and the last two datalogs I recorded if that will help. It runs rough at idle and I can't figure out why. I also believe my TPS Sensor might be shot since when I try to calibrate it, it won't read 0% at closed throttle. Instead, it reads a minimum of 40% and a maximum of 104.3% which makes no sense to me.
I appreciate any additional help.

[CalibratEd]

I would fix the TPS first. The datalogs are of the car warming up. Are you able to drive the car and datalog it?

-Ed

[DC5_Jess]

The car isn’t able to drive yet. But I can let it idle but it putters a lot and struggles on idle. I’ll be getting a new tps to see if that fixes the calibration problem. I’ll keep you informed.
Thank you

[CalibratEd]

Sounds good. I will subscribe to the thread so I can be notified when you post.

-Ed

[DC5_Jess]

I just wanted to post an update. I bought a new TPS from Autozone made by Dorman and that one still failed to read the correct position of the Throttle body so I bought the Acuity Upgraded TPS and am currently waiting for it to be delivered.

[CalibratEd]

That is weird. I hope the new one works.

-Ed

[DC5_Jess]

I made a common mistake it seems and Mixed up the TPS Connector and the MAP sensor connector.
I bought a new MAP sensor because I am aware of it frying if you plug the TPS connector into it.
My TPS reads correctly now but another problem has arisen.
I HAVE NO SPARK! The car cranks but won’t turn over so I took the coil out and grounded out the spark plug while in the coil and got no spark.
Took my multimeter and measure the voltage from the Yel/Grn wire on the coil furthest to the passenger side of the car and didn’t read any voltage.
I checked the ignition fuse in both fuse boxes and neither were damaged (interior and engine bay fuse boxes)
What should I check next?
Am I checking the correct wire for power?
Any help is appreciated. Thank you

[Spunkster]

I would recommend trying your ECU in a known working vehicle to see if it is working properly.

[DC5_Jess]

The only other vehicle that I could try it in that is known to work is running a K20A but my ECU is tuned for a K24A.
Could it possibly damage the working vehicle?(K20A)

[Spunkster]

You will have to upload the correct calibration for that vehicle.

[DC5_Jess]

Update: Kpro ECU is just blinking a Red LED when plugged into my PC and Kmanager says the status of the ECU is “Drivers Installed, On Line, Ignition OFF” my concern is that I turn my ignition ON and the status doesn’t change.
Is there a fuse I can check first before I rule the ECU bad? I just bought this ECU a little under a year ago so I believe it’s still under warranty so I can send it back to Hondata for re-programming or repair.

Any help?
Thank you

[Spunkster]

What vehicle is this in?

[DC5_Jess]

2002 Acura rsx type s
JDM K24A swap
02 type s engine harness
RBC w/ stock Type S throttle body
Type S oil pump
310cc injectors

The ECU was working yesterday and today it does nothing but have a blinking Red LED and tries to crank the engine but won’t turn over.