a buddy of mine was telling me that his tuner could not get the boost by gear option to work
he said the wire is hooked up to b21 on the ecu (but the help file says e21) he said he was told to use b21 any truth to this he said it would work slightly but the boost would completely drop off
i dont know the whole jist of the things that transpired but will find out
also he was saying that his tuner got it to work on a rev hard kit that uses 2 ports on the watse gate and well our greddy kits are internal actuated with only one port
i am about to attempt this on my greddy kit and was wondering will this work or not
i im thinking yes it will cause it should be as easy as pressure in pressure out (only two lines on the solenoid)
and maybe us greddy guys need to adjust with the duty a little bit more
greddy boost by gear problem
Boost Control Solenoid
While almost any solenoid can be used for boost control, it is recommended to use a 3 way solenoid designed for boost control.
The GM 3 way solenoid is a popular solenoid:
Solenoid GM part #1997152 ($10 - $15)
Wiring connector GM part #12102747 ($13~$18)
GM solenoid parameters:
Type: Normally open (maximum boost at 0% duty cycle)
Minimum duty cycle: 15%
Maximum duty cycle: 85%
Solenoids can either be normally open or normally closed. A normally open solenoid has the advantage of not running until boost needs to be increased, but has the disadvantage of not controlling boost at all if the solenoid or hoses fail. An ECU boost cut is recommended to prevent damage if this occurs.
Notes:
? It is normal for the solenoid to make a ticking or buzzing sound when active.
? Stepper motor type controllers will not work.
Connecting the Solenoid
It is recommended to use an external wastegate with two ports (on both sides of the diaphragm). This is by far the most common type of wastegate. For other configurations typically the boost control solenoid operates as a bleed valve, venting pressurized air from the wastegate to the atmosphere.
There are several different pressure sources which can used to control the wastegate:
? Air pressure from the turbo charger outlet.
? Air pressure from the intake manifold.
? Air pressure which is taken from a line running from the intake manifold to the turbo charger outlet.
Each pressure source has advantages and disadvantages - try using a pressure source from the intake manifold first, and then experiment with other sources if the boost is not stable. Do not use the vacuum line running from the manifold flange near cylinder #3 which is connected to the fast idle thermo-valve.
? Connect the pressure source to the 'bottom' of the wastegate (were the pressure will act to open the wastegate).
? Tee the pressure source and connect via the solenoid to the 'top' of the wastegate.
? Try to place the solenoid close to the wastegate and keep the tuning reasonable short (but do not place the solenoid where it will get hot). Tubes which are around 6-18 inches long will work fine.
Wiring the Solenoid
The solenoid has two wires, with no polarity (it does not mater which wire is used for each connection):
? One wire should be connected to the ECU pin E21 (which normally runs the purge control solenoid on the throttle body).
? One wire should be connected to +12V switched power via a 10A fuse.
Notes:
? Do not use a relay between the ECU and solenoid.
? High current solenoids could damage the ECU. It is recommended to confirm that the solenoid draws the same or less current as the GM solenoid listed above.
While almost any solenoid can be used for boost control, it is recommended to use a 3 way solenoid designed for boost control.
The GM 3 way solenoid is a popular solenoid:
Solenoid GM part #1997152 ($10 - $15)
Wiring connector GM part #12102747 ($13~$18)
GM solenoid parameters:
Type: Normally open (maximum boost at 0% duty cycle)
Minimum duty cycle: 15%
Maximum duty cycle: 85%
Solenoids can either be normally open or normally closed. A normally open solenoid has the advantage of not running until boost needs to be increased, but has the disadvantage of not controlling boost at all if the solenoid or hoses fail. An ECU boost cut is recommended to prevent damage if this occurs.
Notes:
? It is normal for the solenoid to make a ticking or buzzing sound when active.
? Stepper motor type controllers will not work.
Connecting the Solenoid
It is recommended to use an external wastegate with two ports (on both sides of the diaphragm). This is by far the most common type of wastegate. For other configurations typically the boost control solenoid operates as a bleed valve, venting pressurized air from the wastegate to the atmosphere.
There are several different pressure sources which can used to control the wastegate:
? Air pressure from the turbo charger outlet.
? Air pressure from the intake manifold.
? Air pressure which is taken from a line running from the intake manifold to the turbo charger outlet.
Each pressure source has advantages and disadvantages - try using a pressure source from the intake manifold first, and then experiment with other sources if the boost is not stable. Do not use the vacuum line running from the manifold flange near cylinder #3 which is connected to the fast idle thermo-valve.
? Connect the pressure source to the 'bottom' of the wastegate (were the pressure will act to open the wastegate).
? Tee the pressure source and connect via the solenoid to the 'top' of the wastegate.
? Try to place the solenoid close to the wastegate and keep the tuning reasonable short (but do not place the solenoid where it will get hot). Tubes which are around 6-18 inches long will work fine.
Wiring the Solenoid
The solenoid has two wires, with no polarity (it does not mater which wire is used for each connection):
? One wire should be connected to the ECU pin E21 (which normally runs the purge control solenoid on the throttle body).
? One wire should be connected to +12V switched power via a 10A fuse.
Notes:
? Do not use a relay between the ECU and solenoid.
? High current solenoids could damage the ECU. It is recommended to confirm that the solenoid draws the same or less current as the GM solenoid listed above.
yeah i saw that in the help file but still i was confused by what my buddy told me (it should be pressur in pressure out and leave on open for venting=disconected wastegate sorta)
the third opening should be left alone right that is where the foam peice goes?
like on my greddy boost controller there are three ports and one is to be left blank
also will the solenoid from my greddy profec e01 work with this mod it is a three way two wire polarity doesnt matter solenoid
but i am unsure about the current draw for the solenoid itself
it is the same solenoid used with the profec b spec-2
the third opening should be left alone right that is where the foam peice goes?
like on my greddy boost controller there are three ports and one is to be left blank
also will the solenoid from my greddy profec e01 work with this mod it is a three way two wire polarity doesnt matter solenoid
but i am unsure about the current draw for the solenoid itself
it is the same solenoid used with the profec b spec-2
Spunkster wrote: Do not use the vacuum line running from the manifold flange near cylinder #3 which is connected to the fast idle thermo-valve.
is this the big elbow that runs to the brake booster?
should this solenoid be connected differently than the the way for the two port external wastegates?
and on the solenoid are all three ports plumbed into the system?
like on my greddy b/c is has it ran differently for my style than the external bubba's
hi
I'm the buddy with the problem, i have a greddy turbo kit, and hondata kpro on my civic si 02 (ep3) with the solenoid working. I installed it with the proper power source and b21 ( isnt it b21 cause the kmanager paramaters boost control and the first line says enable boost control on b21 (pcs) and i check help reference ecu and b21 is in fact pcs and e21 is something else) connector and my greddy turbo has an internal wastegate with 1 actuator ( 1 port) i ran a hose about 7 inches long from that to the solenoid then the solenoid to everything else that used to be on the port.
I was recently at church automotive testing with shawn church (which is about 15 miles away from u guys if i am correct) to get tuned(we used the base map greddy turbo kit civic si 550ccinjectors) To sum it up after about 1 and 1/2 hours we could set the boost higher (10lbs) but we couldnt boost by gear, we did all the proper gear ratios, etc... basically what would happen is it wouldnt recognize it as that certain gear so it would boost spike (or the boost would just fall and not go above 8lbs) at around 4k -5k rpm...like the boost would raise too 8lbs then at around 4-5rpm it would literally just drop...we couldnt figure out the problem, we think it might be a bug in the kmanager since the solenoid is still a prototype and hasnt been used on internal wastegate which i was hoping u guys could fix. shawn was also talking about how the duty cycle in kmanager wouldnt allow him to set it a certain way (u mgiht have to ask him about that)..in the end we set it up to 10lbs on all gears...also we might think its becuase its a 1 port internal wastgate and the one u guys tested on at church was maybe a 2 port external...so me and shawn were hoping u could fix this not only for me but for further customers...contact him if u need specefics, becuase i know u guys have worked with him...also shawn was using version 1.2.0.9..oh and also we couldnt set the boost lower then 8lbs even though the spring was 7 and we tried flipping the solenoid from one hose to another thinking it was reversed (but i did as in the picture in kmanager help)...any help would be appreciated
I'm the buddy with the problem, i have a greddy turbo kit, and hondata kpro on my civic si 02 (ep3) with the solenoid working. I installed it with the proper power source and b21 ( isnt it b21 cause the kmanager paramaters boost control and the first line says enable boost control on b21 (pcs) and i check help reference ecu and b21 is in fact pcs and e21 is something else) connector and my greddy turbo has an internal wastegate with 1 actuator ( 1 port) i ran a hose about 7 inches long from that to the solenoid then the solenoid to everything else that used to be on the port.
I was recently at church automotive testing with shawn church (which is about 15 miles away from u guys if i am correct) to get tuned(we used the base map greddy turbo kit civic si 550ccinjectors) To sum it up after about 1 and 1/2 hours we could set the boost higher (10lbs) but we couldnt boost by gear, we did all the proper gear ratios, etc... basically what would happen is it wouldnt recognize it as that certain gear so it would boost spike (or the boost would just fall and not go above 8lbs) at around 4k -5k rpm...like the boost would raise too 8lbs then at around 4-5rpm it would literally just drop...we couldnt figure out the problem, we think it might be a bug in the kmanager since the solenoid is still a prototype and hasnt been used on internal wastegate which i was hoping u guys could fix. shawn was also talking about how the duty cycle in kmanager wouldnt allow him to set it a certain way (u mgiht have to ask him about that)..in the end we set it up to 10lbs on all gears...also we might think its becuase its a 1 port internal wastgate and the one u guys tested on at church was maybe a 2 port external...so me and shawn were hoping u could fix this not only for me but for further customers...contact him if u need specefics, becuase i know u guys have worked with him...also shawn was using version 1.2.0.9..oh and also we couldnt set the boost lower then 8lbs even though the spring was 7 and we tried flipping the solenoid from one hose to another thinking it was reversed (but i did as in the picture in kmanager help)...any help would be appreciated
what do u think about running about about a 5 inch hose from the actuator that goes to the interal wastagte then tee off that hose and run hose from the tee to one end of the wastgate and the other nipple off the tee too everything else that used to be on the actuator (boost gauge, bov, then manifold (where the hose regularly is) then the other end of the solenoid will be open to the air along with the filter... so basically its the same thing i have before but now the hose is teed off and only one end of the solenoid connects too it besides two (before i had it like a intersection (air had to go through) but now im thinking of having like a detour (air goes either to manifold (where normally goes) or the solenoid
-
Ravenous Si
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 7:49 am
-
Ravenous Si
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 7:49 am