Hondata

I'm not one to half ass install things, so the three wires for the coil power and ignitor were removed and sealed up. I wasn't about to just have wires flopping around my engine bay, so my wiring harness from the distributor plug to inside has been permanently altered.

This kit has not been ...

What would you like pictures of? The solder joints? I'm more than happy to oblige, but before we just sweep this under the standard "customer installation error" can you maybe tell me what I should be looking for? That is, what would you like to see to clear this up?

I followed the included ...

As far as the tuning goes, here's what my tuner said, "There is nothing wring with locking the timing at each break point, it's easy and fail safe."

I'll say it again, car made 450whp with a BEAUTIFUL curve on the 17th, installed the CPR and it won't barely run.

As for the wiring:

CPR was ...

The car runs on E85 and loves the timing we've tuned it to.

Could you be more specific as to why you think the timing map is the issue?

What makes my ignition map make 450whp on the stock ignition system and not even run using your CPR?

Vehicle is a 1994 Honda Accord with an H22, daily driver, not stripped out race car. Running a V1 S300. Made 450whp last weekend, won't make 100 in it's current state and the CPR is the only change.

CPR was professionally installed, orange and white wires pinned directly to ECU plug, ground ...

So I'm digging this up because in the new version we now have a tab that reads:

ECU Speed and offers you a Speed Sensor Correction in %

If another laptop works perfectly, then it is not a problem with the s300, but a problem with the laptop and it being much more susceptible to interference. How are you powering the laptop?

I've tried:

- just the laptop battery
- ac adapter in the wall
- ac adapter to a power inverter in the car ...

I'm at wits end with this so if I'm snippy, sorry. I'm not in the habit of paying this much money for something that doesn't work as advertised.

- 1994 Accord LX Sedan with an H22A turbo, stock ignition, distributor, harness, etc.
- ECU: 37820-P06-A52 with Boost control and VTEC added (problem ...

I have mine set to always on, under 7mph, the RPM is how high you want, mine is 6500 and the retard and fuel are whatever works. I can use -30 timing and +30 fuel. The retard makes the anti-lag work and the added fuel cools the pistons/valves (and makes fire!).

Mine reads -29psi engine off, key on, at 5,400 feet, and then -22psi at idle.

If you haven't seen this thread viewtopic.php?t=12395&start=15 Lots is covered there too.

So, we got it working, and since most people vanish when they "fix" something I am doing the opposite and posting that it indeed works now.

Going off LoCash's instructions was a huge launching point. We're expected to install something that has a VERY high level of difficulty, play with settings ...

locash wrote:The map sensor that the ecu sees is the important one. If the two read significantly different, find out why before going too far.

It's correct, says 4 in SMan and 7 on the gauge, oh the joys of tuning at a Mile High.

RAD!! That's the best simple write up I've seen. Sticky :?:

I shall start at the beginning and go from there.

Now, the only question I have is what should we be using to read boost levels? The MAP and what SMan says, or the boost gauge?

I ask because we thought this may have something to do with ...

I'm officially hijacking this thread, sorry Matt.

I really want the S300 boost control to work and so far it does nothing and I'm stumped. I'm hoping that it's just a setting in the software and not an actual mechanical problem with my WG or the MAC.

Any ideas? Anyone?

I have an SCCA race ...