Hondata

I have got one as well (that i never use)

deviantmethods@gmail.com

This ability should be advertised. I wasn?t considering upgrading until I read this.

The lamest part of the old S200 was having to swap my WBO2/Narrowband back and forth. Compounding that was that I could never datalog in closed loop. It was always a guessing game as to where I actually ran in ...

First thing you need to do is take a DMM (MultiMeter or Volt meter) and read the ?actual? voltage that is being developed at the pin of the ECU. I would then measure the same voltage at the Gauge.

If the two voltages are the same (or if the first reading matches the gauge reading) then you know ...

You arnt making any sense.

First, do you mean A/F or Lambda?

You explained your Table in A/F then you claimed you were off by a factor of 1.2 Lambda. I assume you know the difference?

If you DO mean 1.2 points of A/F (as in you think it should be 12 and it reads 13.2) I will ask how you found ...

The above rand that you are responding to is months old. (oct 2003)

I absolutely agree with you though. It is not worth the trouble.


Since then I have contacted AEM (many times) and their new Gauge Style WBO2 is compatible with Hondata. They cut their max output in half.

Thanks for the reply ...

You need to do your own research.

The Hondata ECU can take 0 ? 3.8V on the O2 input. That I will give you.

Go to the PLX website and look at the graph of their output voltage vs. A/F

You will find that their range falls within the 0-3.8V range. You still need to go and confirm that though to be ...

I am going to shoot my self if one more person asks a question like that.


It is a very simple formula: READ THE AEM WBO2 INSTRUCTION MANUAL.

You will find a VERY CLEAR GRAPH that shows the A/F vs. Voltage.


The instruction manual can be found at the AEM website forum.

If you can?t do that, let ...

Why don?t you hook up a volt meter to the VTEC solenoid and you tell us?

Very nice. I don?t have the table in front of me, but you have the right idea.

I wrote your answer, and then deleted it.

You need to figure that out for yourself.

No more free handouts.

The new AEM WBO2 (gauge pod style)

DOES NOT NEED THIS DEVICE


Due to brow beating, AEM converted its output to 0-3.5V?. This is compatible with Hondata.

-methods

DUDE,

Do you do any research AT ALL? :shock:

Have you not read any of these posts or visited the suggested websites? :?


If you need to ask a question like that you are NOT ready to buy a WBO2. :roll:

Listen, I feel bad for you so I am going to give you a hint:

AS I HAVE SAID MANY ...

If they are going to incorporate the A/F conversion tables they should (in my humble opinion) include 2 or more ?custom? areas for entry that can be SAVED.

I run multiple Oxygen sensors and it really sucks to have to enter the entire conversion table every time I change them in the regular ...

This is an old post.

I don?t frequent this forum, the only reason I knew it was here is because I ?subscribed? to it months ago.

The NEW AEM WBO2 (gauge type) does not need this fix. It has a 0-3.5V output.

The old AEM WBO2 (box type) does need it and I don?t sell them. I assume you went to my ...

It is called a soldering iron and some epoxy.....

Make a perminant mate to the sensor and place your "removable" connector on the cabling.