Hondata

On a different note, just to let you know, with a chipped ecu and hondata, you won't be able to use the stock atts............

The ablity of the engine to make power is not just limited by the amount produced by a turbo, it's more on the tune and on the condition of the engine its self. A stock b16 should be more than capable of 300whp, either by 8psi or 14psi. I've seen stock b16's making 320whp at 10-12 psi on a t3/t4.....

Off topic,,,,, I'm thinking those cams might be too agressive for that low of compression. I tuned a similar setup using a different tuning program. This car was a b16 with same compression, same cam, bigger injectors and other different items. I ended up having vtec like at 7400 rpm. Way too ...

It's not mainly about how much boost can the engine handle, it's about how much horsepower it can take. Take in fact also as to how much boost can a specific turbo put out before it's out of it's range. A good tuner should explain all this before tuning your setup, and it's a good setup by the way ...

If a standalone is not in your books, then maybe an AEM fi/c could do the trick? You could retain the stock ecu and still do some tuning.....

Depends on what fuel pump you're running. On my 98 Type R JRSC setup with 12 psi, I was using rc 550's high impedence injectors, with same header as you, on a stock exhaust and stock fuel pump. My injectors ended up beings maxed out(final tune had the injectors working at a 88% duty cycle). So I ...

I don't have hondata, but running something similar :twisted: . With the AEM wideband, before crancking the car, let the koef for about 20 seconds. After that, the afr readings will be correct. I'm thinking you're running real rich or real lean, only wide band(or your nose if it stinks like fuel ...

I'm not using s300, but I had the same issue(almost gone!). Do you have a wideband hooked up? You might want to check your cranking afr's when really cold. My car would start good at about 40 degree weather. In from Chicago, so it also got pretty cold. I have an AEM wideband, and noticed that when I ...

I haven't downloaded you cal(don't have my laptop at the moment), but for what you have, you should be making more power. How healthy is the engine? Also, where do you have vtec engaging at?

I had code 16 pop up on me once. Ended up being one injector wire was making contact with the strut bar, so make sure that the is no wiring issues, follow the wires all the way to the harness. On the afr note, no engine is alike, even with similar mods. You might need to retune the afr'......

post brand and size of injectors too..........

And depending on what setup you have now, and if it's different from your previous setup, you will have to retune..............

u may want to get a better set of injectors, with more flow(more cc's). your engine might want more fuel, when running properly. I would double check your map sensor. make sure that the o-ring is still in place, if it's not, it will make your car run rich as heck. hapenned to me, so.........

The IAT's may show 180-200 under boost, but the IAT sensors are known to heat soak. I tuned my JRSC type r at 9psi. it made 243whp on a stock exhaust. Then I changed the crank pulley, and psi went to like 11-12psi. At that point, after the second pass in a dyno, the car would missfire. Not sure if ...

Depends on how much power you want. JRSC in your setup, with good psi(not too much psi, other wise an LHT intercooler or meth injection might be necessary), should be at around 250-260 whp. With turbo, with a stock setup, with the right fuel pump, injectors, plugs, etc., should be good for +300whp ...