Hondata

You got it.

Personally, I think as long as the colors contrast enough, a solid color change is fine.
Plus, as it sits, you can also make it play an alert sound when it gets over your threshold.

Your wiring's got to be wrong.
ECU is fine.
Purge valve isn't that big a deal.

This is an easy fix. Pick up a spare transistor at Radio Shack or wherever, and get to soldering.

+2 pts for Martian. He's right on both accounts.

If you're using a PLX wideband setup, it won't matter, since it can feed both WB and NB correctly, and the S300 has no trouble reading both.

As far as the hardware portion goes, anything in the last decade will work.
As for OS, if you've had issues with Vista in the past, I'd bank on it continuing to be an issue.
You 'might' be able to get it to run stable in compatibility mode.
Right click the executable and go to Properties.
Under the ...

15-15.5 is not "quite lean" at idle speeds.
That should be fine, actually, unless you're running some insane comp and timing that's making you knock when only that lean.

Every car runs a little higher idle when running AC.
If the 15 AFR is really bugging you, modify the cells at the RPM and load ...

Data gets lossy over that much cable.
Same reason you shouldn't run over 300ft of Cat5/5e, or any of the other recommended lengths for data cables, you end up with lossy signal and lots of noise.

I wouldn't trust that, nor would I recommend it, if you want to get clean readings/logs.

I also love my PLX.
The guage is nice, wiring isn't very hard to do, provides WB and NB output, supports daisy chaining for multiple sensors/guages (which is super easy to set up).
Plus they self calibrate, warm up quickly, and can easily read AFR's for other fuel types (E85, for instance) with no ...

Gotta be a wiring issue.

I believe it's a combination of ECT and IAT.
Check your fuel compensation tab, you'll see what I'm talking about; I'm pretty sure that's all it uses, and doesn't try to do any further compensation.

So, my question then is, with a different sensor, won't the ECU read a different temp as well?
This is the obvious fix for the temp gauge on my 91 CRX not reading correctly w/my OBD1 B16.

Interesting.
I've had similar issues, but have only been running it on the battery...
I guess I might have to get an inverter for the lappy.

Mine seems to log fine for 20-30 min, however, and only has issues when I start the car, and sometimes when I enter/exit the car while it's running, so maybe ...

Just remove the IAB, and cap off all of the vacuum lines, and pull the butterfly valves out (there's plate sandwiched between the two halves of the manifold, you can just unscrew them), and run it w/the secondaries open all the time.
You lose a little low end torque, but your high end flow will be ...

Stick a folded piece of paper in between the keys to keep ctrl and t pressed down.